Olives, Lemons & Za'atar: The Best Middle Eastern Home Cooking by Rawia Bishara
Rawia, in Arabic, means storyteller. And that is what I am. I tell the stories of my life’s journey, culture, and family through my cooking. A delicious meal is the greatest companion to the memories we cherish most. I was born into a food-loving Palestinian-Arab family in Nazareth, a beautiful town in the southern Galilee. Though the words “organic,” “locavore,” and “sustainable” were unknown then, my parents’ approach qualified on all counts. My respect for the sources of food, how it is grown and prepared, originates in my early years at home.
My grandmother had ceramic urns filled with fruity olive oil, pressed from the trees on her family’s land picked by my aunts and uncles. My mother, too, made her own olive oil, and used the remaining “crude” oil to make soap; she also distilled her own vinegar, sun-dried her own herbs and fruits, made fresh batches of goat cheese, as well as sweet wine from our vineyards, and jarred jewel-colored jams from the bounty of the local orchards.
After moving to New York, I opened my restaurant Tanoreen to honor my mother and her imaginative cooking as well as the rich Middle Eastern gastronomic culture that is rarely experienced outside the region. Tanoreen is unique because it showcases Middle Eastern home cooking as I experienced it growing up. The 135 recipes in this book celebrate tradition and embrace change. I cook without rigidly following recipes, though I do respect tradition. My dishes are based on our culture’s recipes that are flexible enough to accommodate both adventurous and conservative contemporary palates.
Organized by Breakfasts, Mezze, Salads, Soups and Stews, Main Courses (including vegetarian, fish, chicken, lamb and beef), Sides, Pickles and Sauces, and Desserts, in each chapter I maintain the authenticity of a dish, re-creating it as it has been made for generations; but sometimes I might opt to experiment a bit, to make the recipe more contemporary, perhaps adding a spice or offering a few shortcuts. My favorite examples of these are my preparation of Brussels Sprouts with Panko (and tahini), Spice Rubbed Braised Lamb Shank (marinated in ginger and rose buds), Tanoreen Kafta Roll, (a reconstructed classic) or Eggplant Napoleon (baba ghanouge layered between crisp eggplant and topped with basil and tomatoes). A dish like Egyptian Rice with Lamb and Pine Nuts shows this cookbook goes beyond Nazareth, and is more of a bible of Middle Eastern food, sharing my culinary journey from Nazareth to New York, with many stops in between.
Rawia Bishara opened her restaurant Tanoreen in Bay Ridge, Brooklyn in 1998. New York Magazine has named it the best Mezze in 2003 and #1 Cheap Eats in 2006. The New York Times, Gourmet magazine, The New Yorker, The Village Voice, Travel & Leisure, Zagat Restaurant Survey, Michelin Guides, TIme Out New York, The New York Post, and Food Network's "The Best Thing I Ever Ate" have all featured or positively reviewed Tanoreen. Rawia has had her recipes published in The New York Times, New York Magazine, and Plate Magazine and teaches a recurring class at DeGustibus Culinary School.
Table of Contents
CONTENTS Introduction 1. Breakfast Scrambled Eggs with Halloumi Eggs and Potatoes Eggs with Zaatar Simple Omelet; Variation: Stuffed Omelet Sidebar: Kaak Meat and Eggs Fava Beans Sidebar: A Good Soak Tanoreen’s Specialty Fava Beans Chickpeas and Fava Beans Yogurt with Tahini and Chickpeas Hummus with Meat
2. Mezze Kibbe with Hossi Kibbe STORY: Kibbe: The Sound of A Village Pounding Tahini with Parsley Sauce Hummus My Mother’s Hummus Eggplant Spread Mutabal (Eggplant Spread with tomatoes, chile peppers) Eggplant Pate Red Pepper and Walnut Spread Brussels Sprouts with Panko Pickled Stuffed Eggplant Vegetarian Grape Leaves STORY: Of Marriage and Mezze Falafel Savory Pies Meat Vegetable Sfeeha Spinach Meat Cheese STORY: Mastic Memories Sidebar: Big Batch Baking Zaatar Bread Red Pepper and Onion Flatbread
3. Salads Turkish Salad Tanoreen Potato Salad Eggplant Salad Tomato Salad Beet Salad Cauliflower Salad Feta Salad Chopped Salad Chopped Parsley Salad Variation: Tabouleh the Nazareth Way Tanoreen Green Salad
4. Soups and Stews Tanoreen’s Leek and Potato Soup Tomato Soup Lentil Noodle Soup with Kale; VARIATION: Gluten-Free option Pureed Lentil Soup Pureed Split Pea Soup; VARIATION: Adding an herbed Teklai Simple Chicken Soup Seasoned Chicken and Stock Smoked Wheat Berry Soup; VARIATION: Using turkey necks Lamb Vegetable Soup Chickpea and Vegetable Soup Seafood Soup Red Lentil and Butternut Squash Stew Chopped Mlookhia Stew Cauliflower Stew; VARIATION: Lemon sauce String Bean Stew; VARIATION: With beef or lamb Spinach Stew with Beef or Lamb Seasoned Lamb or Beef Stock Sweet Pea and Kafta Stew White Bean and Beef Stew; VARIATION: Vegetarian version Beef and Potato Stew; VARIATION: Using tamarind Okra with Lamb and Pomegranate Molasses Stew
5. Main Courses Vegetarian Baked Eggplant Eggs in Purgatory Vegetarian Stuffed Vegetables Eggplant Squash Tomatoes Potatoes Vegetarian Stuffed Cabbage Cracked Wheat in Tomato Sauce; VARIATION: Shulbato Sandwich Eggplant Napoleon Fish Tanoreen Baked Fish Spicy Baked Fish Fisherman’s Dish Fish Tagine Whole Fried Fish STORY: A Tuesday in Spain Shrimp in Garlic Sauce Salmon in Pesto Roasted Porgies Grilled Red Snapper in Grape Leaves Chicken Chicken Fetti; VARIATION: Fetti sauce the Egyptian way Palestinian Couscous STORY: Making Maftool Chicken "Pizza" Whole Stuffed Chicken Chicken Tagine Chicken Kabobs; VARIATION: Kabobs, Indian-Style Grilled Quail SIDEBAR: How to spatchcock a quail Lamb and Beef Stuffed Artichoke Hearts Sidebar: How to Clean Fresh Artichokes Stuffed Eggplant or Squash in Tomato Sauce Stuffed Eggplant with Lamb in Lemon Sauce Stuffed Grape Leaves Stuffed Cabbage Stuffed Grape Leaves and Squash Hashwi for Stuffing Vegetables; VARIATIONS: For stuffing Eggplant, Squash, Grape Leaves, Cabbage Egyptian Rice with Lamb and Pine Nuts; VARIATION: Mansaaf Express Kafta Kafta with Tahini Sauce or Tomato Sauce Tomato Sauce Tanoreen Kafta Roll Baked Kibbe with Hossi Raw Kibbe with Hossi Makloobeh; VARIATIONS: cauliflower stuffing, fresh fava or sweet pea stuffing Spice Rubbed Braised Lamb Shank Smoked Wheat with Lamb Baked Eggplant with Lamb Beef Baked Spaghetti
6. SIDES Sauteed String Beans Sidebar: To make beef or lamb stew Sauteed Dandelion Greens with Caramelized Onions Kale with Shallots and Olive Oil Fried Tomatoes Okra with Tomatoes Lentils with Bulgur Rice and Vermicelli Pilaf Spicy Rice Jasmine Rice with Pine Nuts and Raisins Basmati Rice with Vegetables
7. PICKLES AND SAUCES Pickled Cauliflower and Carrots Pickled Turnips and Beets Pickled Stuffed Peppers Pickled Eggplant in Vinegar PickledEggplant in Olive Oil Basil Pesto Garlic Sauce Homemade Hot Sauce Olive Spread Tahini Dagga Teklai
8. DESSERTS Classic Sahlab; VARIATION: Sahlab Tanoreen Semolina Cake; VARIATION: Semolina Walnut Cake Date Roll or Cookies; VARIATION: Using fig or apricot preserves Mamool STORY: Easter in Nazareth Macaroni Cookies; VARIATION: Lenten Macaroni Cookies Baklava Knafeh Cheese Walnut Stuffed Fresh Dates
This scarce antiquarian book is included in our special Legacy Reprint Series. In the interest
of creating a more extensive selection of rare historical book reprints, we have chosen to reproduce this title even though it may possibly have occasional ...
Since its original publication twenty years ago, Samia Abdennour’s Egyptian Cooking has become a true
classic—a must-have cookbook for anyone who wants to eat as the Egyptians do. From hearty staples like foul midammis (stewed fava beans) and kushari (a ...
Half a decade after Arabs across the Middle East poured into the streets to demand
change, hopes for democracy have disappeared in a maelstrom of violence and renewed state repression. Egypt remains an authoritarian state, Syria and Yemen are in ...
Wow your family with gorgeous gingerbread goodies. Turn your kitchen into a magical winter world
with 30 ideas ranging from cute gingerbread families and their gingerbread streets, to a delicious chocolate bird house and an edible star wreath. Packed with ...
For anyone who has longed for a garden of their own—whether a city dweller or
one with less-than-green thumbs—this is a handy little guide to growing and maintaining houseplants. Cheerful and informative, Happy Houseplants will guide any budding indoor botanist ...
Back with another “knock 'em dead” collection of brilliant recipes, this compilation reviews the cream
of the crop of James Martin’s cooking portfolio. Proving that Martin is indeed a skilled chef who knows his way around a kitchen, the mouth-watering ...
Zi char (a Hokkien term, literally translated “cook fry”) is widely recognized in Singapore to
refer to a variety of dishes that one can order from any Chinese cooked food (zi char) stall in coffee shops across the island. Dishes ...
Rosamond Man has selected the best recipes from across the region, and each chapter takes
both the imagination and the taste buds on a journey around these countries. Includes includes kalamari in Greece, mussels in Istanbul, trout from the river ...