Perfume: A Century of Scents

Perfume: A Century of Scents

by Lizzie Ostrom

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Overview

Signature scents and now-lost masterpieces; the visionaries who conceived them; the wild and wonderful campaigns that launched them; the women and men who wore them—every perfume has a tale to tell.

Join Lizzie Ostrom on an olfactory adventure as she explores the trends and crazes that have shaped the way we’ve spritzed. One hundred perfumes and scents in all their fragrant glory reveal a fascinating social history of the past century. From the belle epoque through the swinging sixties, to the naughty nineties and beyond, Ostrom brings intelligence and wit to this most ravishing of subjects.

There was the patriotic impact of English Lavender during World War I and perfumes that captured the Egyptomania of the 1920's. Estee Lauder created "Youth Dew" and with it, distilled the essence of 1950's suburbia. Patchouli Oil—the "anti-perfume" of the 1960s—was sure to keep money out of the hands of corporations and "the man." And who could forget the fervor created by the grunge androgyny of CK One? Scent is truly the passport to memory, making Perfume both a lush treat and an insightful examination of the twentieth century through the most mysterious of the five sense.

Product Details

ISBN-13: 9781681772462
Publisher: Pegasus Books
Publication date: 12/06/2016
Pages: 384
Product dimensions: 6.30(w) x 9.00(h) x 1.30(d)

About the Author

Lizzie Ostrom is one of today's most exciting commentators on all things perfume. A lifelong fragrance fan, she began hosting events for people to discover the world of scent in 2010, under her alter ego of Odette Toilette. She has worked with many fashion brands, as well as cultural and scientific institutions including the Tate, Royal Academy, Royal Institution, Royal Observatory Greenwich and The British Museum. She is also the co-host of the popular podcast Life in Scents. Lizzie lives in London and her favorite perfume changes far too often. Find out more on her website: www.odettetoilette.com.

Table of Contents

A Century of Scents: An Introduction 1

The Bountiful Belle Époque: 1900-1909 9

1 Le Parfum Idéal: The Queen-Bee Perfume 13

2 Le Trèfle Incarnat: The Artificial Perfume 16

3 Climax: The Mail-Order Perfume 19

4 Mouchoir de Monsieur: The Flâneur's Perfume 22

5 L'Origan: The Beauty-Hall Perfume 24

6 Shem-el-Nessim: The Arabian Nights Perfume 27

7 Après l'Ondée: The Purple Perfume 30

8 Pompeia: The Hoodoo Perfume 32

9 American Ideal: The Home-Grown Perfume 35

10 Peau d'Espagne: The Wanton Perfume 38

The Theatrical Teens: 1910-1919 41

11 Special N° 127: The Society Perfume 45

12 Narcisse Noir: The Lawsuit Perfume 48

13 Poinsettia: The Theatrical Perfume 51

14 Nuit de Chine: The Fantastical Perfume 55

15 Ess Viotto: The Working Woman's Perfume 59

16 English Lavender: The Patriotic Perfume 62

17 Le Bouquet Préféré de l'Impératrice: The Revolutionised Perfume 65

18 Le Fruit Défendu: The Best-Named Perfume 68

19 Chypre: The Classical Perfume 70

20 Mitsouko: The Oblique Perfume 72

The Roaring Twenties: 1920-1929 75

21 Habanita: The Smoking Perfume 79

22 N°: The Perfume 82

23 Nuit de Noël: The Festive Perfume 85

24 Bain de Champagne: The Prohibition Perfume 87

25 Le Dandy: The Gender-Bending Perfume 91

26 Gardenia: The Woozy Perfume 94

27 Amour Amour; Que Sais-Je?; Adieu Sagesse: The Hair-Colour Perfumes 97

28 Tutankhamon Pharaoh Scent: The Egyptomania Perfume 100

29 Huile de Chaldée: The Summer-Holiday Perfume 103

30 Zibeline: The Fur Perfume 107

The Threatening Thirties: 1930-1939 111

31 Skin Bracer: The Sergeant-Major Perfume 115

32 Scandal: The Animalic Perfume 117

33 Vol de Nuit: The High-Altitude Perfume 119

34 Tweed: The Outdoors Perfume 121

35 Blue Grass: The Equine Perfume 123

36 Fleurs de Rocaille: The Matinée Perfume 126

37 Shocking: The Technicolor Perfume 128

38 Old Spice: The Everyman Perfume 131

39 Colony: The Voyaging Perfume 133

40 Alpona: The Ski-Resort Perfume 136

The Insubordinate Forties: 1940-1949 139

41 Chantilly: The Romance Perfume 143

42 Dri-Perfume: The War-Effort Perfume 145

43 Femme: The Back-to-the-Source Perfume 149

44 White Shoulders: The Diaphanous Perfume 151

45 Black Satin: The Publicity-Stunt Perfume 154

46 Oh!: The French Lover Perfume 157

47 St Johns Bay Rum: The Adventurer's Perfume 160

48 Ma Griffe: The Proto-Teenage Perfume 163

49 L'Air du Temps: The Maternal Perfume 166

50 Fracas: The Noir Perfume 169

The Elegant Fifties: 1950-1959 173

51 Wind Song: The Prince Charming Perfume 177

52 Jolie Madame: The Uptown Perfume 179

53 Youth Dew: The Suburbia Perfume 182

54 Noa Noa: The Cocktail-Party Perfume 185

55 White Fire: The Provincial Perfume 188

56 Pino Silvestre: The Air-Fresh Perfume 190

57 Diorissimo: The Pedestal Perfume 193

58 Hypnotique: The Charm-Offensive Perfume 196

59 Tabac Original: The Just-for-Men Perfume 199

60 Vétiver: The Gentlemanly Perfume 202

The Swinging Sixties: 1960-1969 205

61 Bal à Versailles: The Maximalist Perfume 208

62 Brut: The Neanderthal Perfume 210

63 Zen: The Japonica Perfume 213

64 Pretty Peach: My First Perfume 216

65 Oh! de London: The Groovy Perfume 218

66 Eau Sauvage: The Playboy Perfume 220

67 Aramis: The Urbane Perfume 223

68 Hai Karate: The Self-Defence Fragrance 227

69 Patchouli Oil: The Wanderlust Perfume 229

70 Calandre: The Futuristic Perfume 233

The Spangly Seventies: 1970-1979 235

71 Rive Gauche: The Multitasking Perfume 239

72 Aromatics Elixir: The Holistic Perfume 241

73 No 19: The Ineffable Perfume 243

74 Musk Oil: The Love-Making Perfume 245

75 Diorella: The Joie-de-Vivre Perfume 247

76 Charlie: The Disco Perfume 249

77 Babe: The Prom-Night Perfume 252

78 Opium: The Me Perfume 254

79 Magie Noire: The Wiccan Perfume 256

80 Anais Anais: The Wistful Perfume 259

The Egotistical Eighties: 1980-1989 261

81 Kouros: The Action-Hero Perfume 266

82 Giorgio Beverly Hills: The Banned Perfume 268

83 White Musk: The Clean Perfume 271

84 Drakkar Noir: The Yuppie Perfume 274

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