In The Splendid Table's How to Eat Weekends featuring 100 recipes, Lynne and Sally take you on escapades for a deeply pleasurable experience. They want you to head to different neighborhoods and markets, gather up ingredients, and embrace new cooking techniques and flavors that will carry over into your everyday meals. They include backstories about the rituals and reasons behind particular dishes (such as why lettuce figures into southern Chinese New Year celebrations) and take you deep into the aromatic aisles of ethnic markets and neighborhoods.
Here are the recipes for weekends, when you can enjoy the journey of cooking rather than just the destination. The recipes are accessible and their directions easy to follow whether you're a rookie or more experienced in the kitchen. Begin a meal with Rice Paper Rolls of Herbs & Shrimp or Mahogany-Glazed Chicken Wings. Try Scandinavian Broth with Scallop–Smoked Salmon Drop Dumplings; Barley Risotto with Saffron, Corn & Chives; or Sichuan-Inspired Pickled Vegetables. Main courses include Yucatán Pork in Banana Leaves; Timbale of Sweet Peppers, Greens & Hominy; and Leg of Lamb with Honey & Moroccan Table Spices.
Readers will also find lots of variations and ideas for leftovers in "Work Night Encores," expert wine pairings, and musings—plus the stories, quips, and history that Splendid Table fans have come to love. The Splendid Table's How to Eat Weekends in an essential addition to any cookbook shelf.
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About the Author
SALLY SWIFT is the managing producer and cocreator of The Splendid Table radio program and coauthor of The Splendid Table's How to Eat Supper. She is an avid gardener, bicyclist, and public radio aficionado. After nearly two decades of working with Lynne, her only complaint is that they rarely have time for a real lunch.
THE SPLENDID TABLE is produced by American Public Media and is heard nationwide on more than 300 public radio stations. The program has received multiple broadcast awards over the years, including two James Beard Awards for Best National Radio Show on Food, the Gracie Allen Award for Best Syndicated Talk Show, and four Clarion Awards from the Association for Women in Communication for Best National Radio Talk Show. For more information, visit SplendidTable.org.
Slow-Roasted Pork with Glazed Orange Slices
Serves 8 to 12
30 minutes prep time;
3 days seasoning time; 2 1/2 hours oven time; 10 to 15 minutes rest time So forgiving, you can calibrate this roast around your needs instead of the usual other way around. It will hold happily in a low oven (180°F. or so) for 1 hour.
6- to 7-pound boneless pork shoulder or Boston butt, well marbled
1 generous teaspoon whole cloves, or 1 level teaspoon ground
1 generous teaspoon whole allspice, or 1 level teaspoon ground
1 generous teaspoon coriander seed, or 1 level teaspoon ground
1 generous teaspoon black peppercorns, or 1 level teaspoon ground black pepper
2½-inch cinnamon stick, broken, or 2 teaspoons ground
1 tablespoon kosher salt
6 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1/3 cup good-tasting extra-virgin olive oil
11/3 cups orange juice
1½ cups dry red wine
ROASTING AND FINISHING
2 tightly packed tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves
½ medium onion, chopped
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 thin-skinned orange, such as Valencia, Temple, or Hamlin, unpeeled, sliced into thin rounds
1. Marinate the meat: Three days before cooking, make deep wide cuts into the meat. Then grind the whole cloves, allspice, coriander, peppercorns, and cinnamon stick in a coffee grinder or mortar and pestle, or blend the ground spices. In a medium bowl, mix the spices with the salt, garlic, oil, 2/3 cup of the orange juice, and ½ cup of the wine. Stuff the mixture into the slits and the meat's crevices and rub into the pork on all sides. Tuck the roast into a shallow dish, cover, and refrigerate for 3 days, turning three or four times.
2. Roast the meat: Take the meat out of the refrigerator and preheat the oven to 400°F. Purée the rosemary, onion, salt, and oil, and stuff the mixture into the roast's crevices.
3. Roll up the roast into a loose cylinder. Put it in a large shallow pan, fat side up (we like a half-sheet pan), scrape any remaining marinade over it, and scatter the orange slices around the pan. Roast for 30 minutes, then pour in the remaining 1 cup wine.
4. Turn the heat down to 325°F., pour in the remaining 2/3 cup orange juice, and roast for another 90 minutes, basting the pan juices and the orange slices over the meat several times. If the pan juices threaten to burn, blend in a little water. You want them to end up being syrupy, but not burned.
5. Test the internal temperature of the meat with an instant-read thermometer. Once it reaches 145°F. to 150°F., reduce the heat to 200°F. for another 30 minutes, or until the meat's internal temperature is 155°F. Remove the pork from the oven and let it rest in a warm place for 10 to 15 minutes before slicing.
6. The pan juices should be syrupy. If needed, set the pan over two burners, skim off a little excess fat, and cook down the juices, stirring with a wooden spatula.
7. To serve, thinly slice the pork across the grain, moistening the slices with the pan sauce and bits of roasted orange. Don't be put off if the meat is a pinkish beige; it is safe and so succulent. Serve the pork hot.
Cook to Cook
Why recipes still call for pork loin as a celebration roast we can't imagine. Over-priced and underperforming, the typical commercial loin comes off dry and tasteless. Much cheaper shoulder cuts, like the pork in this recipe, have the essential marbling for succulent eating, and no roast is as easy on a cook. Short of blasting (and toughening) them in too hot an oven (keep the temperature at 350°F. or lower), you can't ruin a shoulder roast.
Start the roast 3 days ahead with the seasonings.
WINE Try a Chenin Blanc from South Africa with this dish. They tend to be more reliably dry than those from the Loire and have a bit more fruit, yet are not overtly sweet.
WORK NIGHT ENCORE
Pan-Browned Pork with Mom's Apple Sauerkraut: Slice the leftover pork roast into sticks about 3 inches long by 1 inch thick. Coat a big skillet with a thin film of olive oil, get it hot, and quickly brown the pork. Take the meat out of the pan and set aside.
Wipe out the pan, coat it with a thin film of olive oil, and heat it over medium-high heat. Brown a chopped large onion and a sprig of rosemary in it along with a cut-up large apple. Blend in 2 minced garlic cloves, several cups rinsed and drained sauerkraut, and a generous splash of white wine. Stir up the brown glaze in the pan as you cook down the wine. Blend in any pan juices left from the pork and the pork pieces. Have the dish hot and serve it with boiled potatoes or toasted, chewy dark bread.