Surf Is Where You Find It

Surf Is Where You Find It

Paperback(Second Edition)

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Overview

Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.

Product Details

ISBN-13: 9781938340260
Publisher: Patagonia
Publication date: 04/14/2015
Edition description: Second Edition
Pages: 416
Product dimensions: 6.50(w) x 9.40(h) x 1.20(d)

About the Author

Gerry Lopez made his reputation at Pipeline, then went on to a lifelong career in surfing, snowboarding, and stand-up-paddle. He co-founded Lightning Bolt® Maui surfboards, was instrumental in developing the high-performance shortboard, and has appeared in many films. He lives in Bend, OR.

Rob Machado is an Australian-born American professional surfer from Cardiff-by-the-Sea, a community in Encinitas, CA.

Steve Pezman is the founder of The Surfer’s Journal and has been the editor since 1992. He lives in San Clemente, CA.

Read an Excerpt


Introduction

Talking Story
A life devoted to surfing has been a splendid way to live. From the beginning, the adventures have been memorable: Growing up in the extraordinary place that was Hawai‘i in the 1950s and 1960s. Playing a part in the shortboard revolution of the late 1960s and early 1970s. Living the dream in the Country before it was ever called the North Shore. Experiencing the awe, fear, and ultimate satisfaction of finding the tube in the early days at the Pipeline. Traveling for surf throughout the world: to the original surf camp at G-Land, the exotic islands off Sumatra, and especially to the magic island of Bali, Indonesia—before it became a popular surf destination. Experiencing the beginnings of windsurfing on Maui, the rebirth in Hawai‘i of prone paddleboarding, the early years of snowboarding and tow-in surfing at Jaws. Finding and falling in deep to the new sport of standup paddle surfing and downwind running. And through it all, designing and building the equipment, the boards and accessories that make each new evolution of the surf game more inviting, more challenging, and more satisfying.

But it is the people that surfing molds into truly unique individuals, each with his own special story, that stand out. Many of these surfers who helped create the surfing world of today are unknown for their contributions, or are already forgotten.

It is said that the best thing about surfing is talking about it afterwards. This is true and, while surfing is an intimately personal endeavor, the stories can be enjoyed by anyone. My father, a career newspaperman, instilled in me a desire to put these stories into written form. There was more encouragement, help and support given by family and friends. I’ve felt a duty to record some of the events and people I have had the pleasure of being involved with; they are the history of this fine sport.

These stories are for those surfers who helped shape surfing and for the younger surfers who may be interested in the way things were before their time. They are also for anyone who has never been on a surfboard, or rode a wave, but finds the idea of it intriguing.

Surfing is a deeply wonderful thing—anytime, anywhere, and any way.
- Gerry Lopez

Table of Contents


I. introduction
Sweet Candy Days
Pakala
A First Time at the Pipeline
II. The boys
RB
A Giant Among Men
No Prisoners
Flippy, Pipe Days
Jan’s Board
The Track of the Cat
Momentary Entertainment
Herbie
The Fastest Wave in the World
Whitey and the Duke
Dr. Surf
Coming Down
Big Wally
III. All shook up
Everything Bad Goes Down in Parking Lots
Cannons
The Big Swim
Caught Inside Again
Incident at Eke Moku
G-Land
The Mother of All Pipeline Swells
A Good Day to Die

IV. traveling for surf
Tales of Indonesia
Treasure Islands
The Mile Long Rides
Chile

V. surf is where you find it
The Demise of the Ditch
A Big Score
Keep Paddling
The Gorge

VI. just for fun
The Country
The Money Motive
The Best Surfer in the Flesh
A Saturday at Ala Moana
Get It While You Can
A Good Deal
The Last Laugh

VII. finally
The Coral Cruiser
Jungle Love

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