Ten Restaurants That Changed America

by Paul Freedman, Danny Meyer (Introduction)

Overview

Finalist for the IACP Cookbook Award
A Washington Post Notable Book of the Year
A Smithsonian Best Food Book of the Year
Longlisted for the Art of Eating Prize

Featuring a new chapter on ten restaurants changing America today, a “fascinating . . . sweep through centuries of food culture” (Washington Post).

Combining an historian’s rigor with a food enthusiast’s palate, Paul Freedman’s seminal and highly entertaining Ten Restaurants That Changed America reveals how the history of our restaurants reflects nothing less than the history of America itself. Whether charting the rise of our love affair with Chinese food through San Francisco’s fabled Mandarin; evoking the poignant nostalgia of Howard Johnson’s, the beloved roadside chain that foreshadowed the pandemic of McDonald’s; or chronicling the convivial lunchtime crowd at Schrafft’s, the first dining establishment to cater to women’s tastes, Freedman uses each restaurant to reveal a wider story of race and class, immigration and assimilation. “As much about the contradictions and contrasts in this country as it is about its places to eat” (The New Yorker), Ten Restaurants That Changed America is a “must-read” (Eater) that proves “essential for anyone who cares about where they go to dinner” (Wall Street Journal Magazine).

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9781631494987
Publisher:	Liveright Publishing Corporation
Publication date:	10/23/2018
Edition description:	Reprint
Pages:	560
Product dimensions:	7.00(w) x 9.10(h) x 1.50(d)

About the Author

Paul Freedman is a history professor at Yale University. The author of the highly acclaimed Ten Restaurants That Changed America, Freedman lives in Pelham, New York.

 

Table of Contents

List of Illustrations xi

Preface to the Paperback Edition xxi

Introduction Danny Meyer xxvii

Ten Restaurants and American Cuisine xxxi

Delmonico's: America's First Restaurant 3

Antoine's: Haute Creole 49

Schrafft's: Seeking Out the Female Customer 91

Howard Johnson's: As American as Fried Clams 129

Mamma Leone's: Italian Entertainment 171

The Mandarin: "The Best Chinese Food East of the Pacific" 209

Sylvia's: The Soul of Harlem 251

Le Pavilion: Midcentury French 289

The Four Seasons: The Epitome of Modern 323

Chez Panisse: "The Way We Eat Now" 365

Epilogue: 1980 to the Present 407

Afterword to the Paperback Edition: Ten Restaurants Changing America Now 437

Appendix: Classic Recipes from the Ten Restaurants That Changed America 469

Acknowledgments 481

Notes 485

Selected Bibliography 523

Index 537

Editorial Reviews

"Paul Freedman, one of the world’s most learned food writers, has focused his extraordinary scholarship on a deconstruction of American dining from the corner deli to Chez Panisse. If you enjoy a brown paper bag of fried clams as much as a fourteen-course tasting menu, and ever wondered how it all came to be a part of daily American life, this is the book for you. Ten Restaurants That Changed America is the most enlightening kind of history, as Freedman takes a fresh look at what we take for granted and reveals the extraordinary matrix of cultural and culinary currents that have made it all possible."

Frederick Kaufman

"Reading Paul Freedman about America, stalking myself through the taste of meals at eight of his ten restaurants, each sampled for different reasons at different moments in my life, I began to draw the outlines of a world I shared with other people, people more or less like me, and to wonder what ‘like me’ meant when it came to expectations of inclusion, of common flash points of reference, of understanding and participating in the coded language of what we eat and how it is prepared and who is sitting at all those tables around us. I think that’s what Freedman intended us to do. . . . Ten Restaurants is a book as much about the contradictions and contrasts in this country as it is about its places to eat. It is designed to keep you up, thinking, and, as I did this summer, returning to its rich, and often troubling, pages."

The New Yorker - Jane Kramer

"The most important and entertaining book on the subject of food that I’ve read in years! Paul Freedman paints a portrait of a culture whose cuisine is only beginning to emerge. Witty, sensitive, surprisingly sensuous—more, please!"

Molly O'Neill

"Fascinating. . . . In his sweep through centuries of food culture, Freedman illuminates much more than what happened in the front or back of the house of these 10 distinct places (although he does plenty of that). He effectively makes the case that the story of America’s restaurants is one of changing immigration patterns, race relations, gender and family roles, work obligations, and leisure habits. . . . [Freedman’s] insights are shrewd and demonstrate the power of historical study in understanding the world."

Joe Yonan

12/12/2016
Freedman (Food: The History of Taste), a history professor at Yale, highlights 10 restaurants that influenced a culture of eating. Some of the landmark eateries featured in this volume no longer exist but they still claim a cherished and notable spot in culinary history. The edifice of Delmonico’s in New York graces the cover; it’s given American palates a taste for fine dining since 1827. Freedman also prominently features Schrafft’s, the East Coast institution that catered to “ladies who lunch” and served dainty, middle-class fare without the grease-laden platters enjoyed by working men. Freedman believes the Howard Johnson restaurants carved out a niche for the on-the-road, market which grew exponentially in the auto-crazed period of the 1920s. Freedman discusses Sylvia’s, a Harlem restaurant that has welcomed a spectrum of eaters from locals to heads of state; he also supplies wonderful details of the Four Seasons, the Mandarin, and Chez Panisse in Berkeley; Antoine’s in New Orleans; and Mamma Leone’s and Le Pavillon in New York. Freedman’s extensive knowledge and trusted palate give readers a definitive and approachable take on restaurant history in America. (Sept.)

Publishers Weekly

"Spanning over 100 years, Paul Freedman’s engrossing and well-researched exploration of the restaurant as an American institution presents us with a gallery of unforgettable characters, iconic dishes, and unique places. Immigrants, entrepreneurs, chefs, and impresarios all loom large in a narrative that accurately tracks the historical changes in how we eat in public."

Fabio Parasecoli

"Impeccable . . . . Inevitably, a book like this will induce a feast of delicious nostalgia in most readers, a longing for all those good — and even some not so good — menus and dishes past. But the culinary and cultural journey Mr. Freedman has taken us on demonstrates the abiding qualities in our society — its openness to new sources and sourcing, its diversity, its restlessness with the same old thing, its capacity for reinvention and assimilation — all of which bode well for the future of America’s restaurants and its cuisine."

Washington Times - Martin Rubin

"Fascinating....Mr. Freedman’s book suggests that it’s not ultimately restaurants that change America—it’s the people in the kitchen."

Wall Street Journal - Victorino Matus

"Pleasure without snobbery: Paul Freedman’s book is itself exactly what the very best American food has always been."

Joyce E. Chaplin

08/01/2016
This eminently readable food history charts the course of U.S. culture through familiar restaurants such as Chez Panisse in Berkeley, CA; Delmonico's and the Four Seasons in New York; Harlem, NY, staple Sylvia's; Antoine's in New Orleans; former candy chain Schrafft's; San Francisco's the Mandarin; and fast food chain Howard Johnson. According to Freedman (history, Yale Univ.; Out of the East), these eateries defined how we dine today. The author devotes a chapter to each of the restaurants, describing how they came to be popular and how that success translated into a larger societal impact. Packed with photos and menus, the book further includes an appendix with recipes. VERDICT In a narrative that is intellectually delicious, Freedman presents a new way of thinking about "you are what you eat." This will appeal widely, engaging readers with both a casual or scholarly interest in food history and its influence on American culture in the late 19th and 20th centuries.—Courtney McDonald, Indiana Univ. Libs., Bloomington

Library Journal

2016-07-19
A robust historical trek through America’s restaurant cuisine over three centuries.Rather than a mere listing of the 10 best restaurants in the country, Freedman (History/Yale Univ.; Out of the East: Spices and the Medieval Imagination, 2008, etc.) establishes these 10 as significant representatives of specific times, places, and trends in American culture. Delightfully illustrated with menus, photos, and other visual accompaniments, the narrative delves into each of the 10 restaurants’ unique stories, beginning with America’s first restaurant, Delmonico’s, which “would offer impeccable French cuisine worthy of Paris.” Opened in 1827 in New York City, “it set a pattern for what fine dining meant for the nineteenth century and had many worthy and successful imitators.” The author also recounts the story of Antoine’s in New Orleans; how the many branches of Schrafft’s courted women customers while expanding middle-class restaurant options; and why the rise of automobile travel created the need for consistent meals at reasonable prices and how Howard Johnson successfully filled this need and led to the concept of franchising. Freedman tracks the demise of the reverence for French food and the rise of the power lunch, and he shows how the mass migration of African-Americans from the South led to the hunger for what became known as “soul food.” The author concludes with a chapter detailing the still-reverberating changes in the food world wrought by Alice Waters and Chez Panisse, where “the combination of uniquely delicious food and barely controlled chaos would remain a constant for decades.” For those intrepid readers wanting more tasty tidbits, Freedman includes a selected bibliography, dozens of notes, and an appendix containing such classic recipes as Sylvia’s Boiled String Beans with Ham or Chez Panisse’s Curly Endive, Radicchio, and Fuyu Persimmon Salad. Culinary historians, those besotted with food culture, and curious general readers will all find something of value in this well-researched, entertaining social and cultural history.

Kirkus Reviews