Textiles / Edition 11 available in Hardcover
Textiles, ninth edition, is designed to be a comprehensive text for the introductory textiles student with emphasis on the fundamental principles of serviceability of textiles and textile production. This new edition continues its clear and logical presentation of topics with the most up-to-date information accompanied by the extensive use of visuals.
Photographs and diagrams that help students understand and learn the information remain a major part of the book. Basic fibers, yarns, fabrics, and finishes continue to be the emphasis. A professional understanding and use of terms are major goals of this book and are achieved with an extensive glossary and index.
Major changes with the 9th edition include:
- Flow charts for basic fabric structures, basic woven fabrics, fancy woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, other fabrications, and fabrics with aesthetic finishes.
- Tables were combined to facilitate understanding and comparisons among fibers and fabrics.
- Extensive discussions of elastoester, fluorpolymer, melamine, yak, cornstarch fiber (polylactide), and PBO.
- Comprehensive information of production development and the role textile materials play in this process.
- Care of textiles was expanded with the addition of home solvent cleaning, horizontal and vertical axis washing machines, ventless drying, alternates to dry cleaning, and new ingredients in detergents or compounds available for home use.
- New finishes were added: bioscouring, ultraviolet absorbent, porosity control., vapor phase durable press finishes, and pilling resistant finishes.
Table of Contents
I. INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES.
2. Product Development from a Textile Perspective.
4. Natural Cellulosic Fibers.
5. Natural Protein Fibers.
6. The Fiber Manufacturing Process.
7. Manufactured Regenerated Fibers.
8. Synthetic Fibers.
9. Special-Use Fibers.
11. Yarn Classification.
13. Fancy Weaves and Fabrics.
14. Knitting and Knit Fabrics.
15. Other Fabrication Methods.
17. Aesthetic Finishes.
18. Special-Purpose Finishes.
19. Dyeing and Printing.
VI. OTHER ISSUES RELATED TO TEXTILES.
21. Legal and Environmental Concerns.
22. Career Exploration.
Appendix A: Fiber Names in Other Languages.
Appendix B: Fibers No Longer Produced in the United States.
Appendix C: Selected Trade Names.
Pilosophy of this Book
Textiles provides students with a basic knowledge of textiles so that they understand how textiles are produced and how appropriate performance characteristics are incorporated into materials and products. With this knowledge, they have the foundation they need to make informed decisions regarding textile materials and products and to communicate effectively with buyers, suppliers, customers, and others. A solid understanding of textile components (fibers, yarns, fabrics, and finishes), the interrelationships among these components, and their impact on product performance is necessary to fulfill day-to-day responsibilities in many careers in the textile, apparel, and furnishings industry.
Serviceability of textiles and textile products is the fundamental principle emphasized throughout the book. I discuss the contributions of each component as it is incorporated in or combined with other components in a textile product. I stress interrelationships among the components. Basic information regarding how each component is processed or handled helps in understanding product performance and cost. Production of textiles is a complex process dealing with a wide variety of materials and techniques. To understand textiles, students need a basic understanding of the choices and technology involved.
This book will help students:
- use textile terminology correctly.
- know laws and labeling requirements regulating textile distribution.
- understand the impact of production processes and selection of components on product performance, cost, and consumer satisfaction.
- recognize the forces that drive industrydevelopments.
- identify fiber type, yarn type, and fabrication method.
- predict fabric or product performance based on a knowledge of fibers, yarns, fabrication methods, and finishes in conjunction with informative labeling.
- select textile components or products based on specified end uses and target market expectations for performance and serviceability.
- select appropriate care for textile products.
- develop an interest in and appreciation of textiles.
Understanding textiles cannot be achieved only by studying this book; it also requires working with fabrics. Kits are available from several sources. In addition, many workbooks for lab use and self-study have been designed to help students learn this information.
Organization of this Book
Each section of the book focuses on a basic component or aspect of fabrics and textile products or on general issues important to the use of, production of, or satisfaction with textile products. These sections are complete and can be used in any order desired. The four main sections follow the normal sequence used in the production of textiles: fiber, yarn, fabrication, and finishing.
The first section of the book introduces the study of textiles and approaches product development from a textile perspective. Section Two focuses on fibers, their production, serviceability, effect on product performance, and use. Several new fibers or new generic classifications have been added to this section. Section Three focuses on yarn production, yarn types, the relationship of yarn type to product performance and serviceability, and sewing thread. Section Four examines fabrication methods. These chapters are organized by basic fabrication method, standard or classic fabric names and types, and the relationships between fabrication and product performance. Flow charts to aid in identify* fabrics have been added. (More extensive flow charts are available in the instructor's manual.) Section Five deals with finishes, grouped by type or effect. Dyeing and printing are also included, as well as problems that consumers and producers experience with dyed or printed fabrics. The discussion of ink-jet printing has been updated to reflect the tremendous changes occurring in this area. Several new finishes have been added to this section. The final section deals with other issues related to textiles. One chapter focuses on care of textile products, new cleaning products and processes, and associated environmental issues. Another chapter investigates legal and environmental issues. The discussion on environmental issues illustrates current environmental efforts and explores recycling of textiles. The final chapter discusses career opportunities requiring knowledge of textiles.
Features of the Book
Instructors and students have always liked this book's summary and reference tables and charts, the presentation of information in a clear and consistent fashion, the emphasis on serviceability, and the numerous illustrations, graphics, and photographs. I tried to strengthen these things in this revision. I developed new flow charts to facilitate fabric identification. I revised, reorganized, or updated tables where necessary or where students or colleagues suggested improvements.
Although the basic content and flavor of Textiles remain intact, the changes help students recognize and focus on the most important material. Objectives and key terms for each chapter are revised so that students will be able to identify and understand the major concepts. After reading and studying each chapter, students should be able to define each term in the key terms list and describe how terms relate to each other and to the chapter content. Study questions provide students with an opportunity to test their level of understanding, focus on key concepts or applications, and integrate the information. I updated the list of readings for students who would like to investigate topics beyond the scope of the book. Many of these readings are technical in nature. There are a few articles on textiles in the popular press, but these often include little substantive information. Hence, the most valuable articles and books tend to be those written from a technical perspective.
Major Changes and Additions
The emphasis in this revision has been on updating and adding material where new processes or concerns have developed in the professional workplace, in the textile industry, or among consumers. I added explanations, expanded discussions, and clarified concepts in areas where students had indicated the need or where colleagues expressed or suggested improvements. Terminology incorporates an industry perspective so that professionals can understand and communicate with other professionals. The pronunciation guide included with some words in the glossary will help professionals pronounce and use terms correctly. I expanded the index to facilitate the book's use as a resource by professionals who need to locate information quickly regarding a specific term, process, or product. I omitted some photos and diagrams of marginal usefulness and modified others to make them current or easier to understand.
Technological advances and new industry and societal concerns that have arisen or have increased in importance since the last edition are included. The discussion of environmental impact for each major component is important to the industry and consumers. The book continues to focus on the three major end uses of textiles: apparel, furnishings, and industrial or technical products.
The discussion of dyeing and printing provides more information on the basic processes of adding color to fabric. The discussion of finishing addresses aesthetic finishes that add a softer or stressed look to goods and products. Professional wet cleaning as an alternative to dry cleaning is included in the chapter on care. In addition, recent changes in detergents and other laundry additives are described. New fiber developments are included.
The chapter on career opportunities includes updated information on starting salaries. This discussion is intended to help students understand how they will apply their knowledge of textiles and textile products in their professional work. It should help students gain a better understanding of careers and how professionals interact with each other. Although this chapter may not be assigned in a beginning textile course, students might read the chapter to explore career possibilities on their own and use the information when considering career options other than those that are most obvious to the consumer.
Ancillaries and Supplements
This book assumes that the student requires basic information regarding textiles in order to perform professional responsibilities and communicate with other professionals in an intelligent and informed manner. Hence, the book is designed to be of use as a textbook and as a part of a professional's reference library. Key terms are defined in both the text and the glossary. The expanded glossary includes more than basic or classic fabric names as well as a pronunciation guide. Fiber modifications, finishes, acid terminology related to performance have been incorporated. The expanded index will help individuals locate information needed for class or on the job. Appendix A lists fiber names in several languages that may be encountered in the international textile industry. Appendix C lists selected trade names for -fibers, yarns, fabrics, finishes, and cleaning procedures.
The instructor's manual includes an updated outline of the material for each chapter, a revised list of suggested activities, a bank of test questions in various formats, and transparency masters for use in class.
Several basic textile swatch kits are available for use in konjunction with this edition of Textiles. The swatch kits usually consist of fabric swatches, mounting sheets, and a master list with fabric name/description/fiber content. Some also include a three-ring binder. One such swatch kit is available from Textile Fabric Consultants, 5499 Murfreesboro Rd, Suite D, LaVergne, TN 37086, 800-210-9394 e-mail: textilefcQaol.com.
I used the comments and contributions of many students and colleagues in preparing this revision. I find students' comments help the most in evaluating the approach, wording, and style of presentation, and therefore 1 appreciate hearing from any student or faculty member about the book. Both positive and negative comments are incredibly helpful and invaluable in revising the book. I would especially like to thank J. R. Campbell, Natalie Johnson, Susan Herrold, Ruth Glock, Grace Kunz, and Ann Marie Fiore of Iowa State University for their suggestions and perspectives. A special thanks to Chuck Greiner of Front Porch Photography Studio, Huxley, Iowa, for his help with the photography; Susan Herrold of Iowa State University for her help with selected photos, Rita Ostdiek of JC Penney, Inc., for her assistance with some of the photographs of professionals in action; and Colette Ergenbright of Maytag Appliances for her help with some of the care photographs. Micki Johns has a great eye for detail and discrepancies. Thanks, Micki! Great thanks to Doris Kadolph, Renae Kadolph, and Lora Camacho, who assisted with last-minute details. And finally, thanks to Boom, Fuff, and Cube who contributed in their own ways to our efforts!
Revising this book is always an exciting challenge. I enjoy the opportunity to explore the textiles literature in more depth than our university responsibilities usually allow. I enjoy sharing the exciting area of textiles with so many others. I hope that this book hooks you on textiles as the third edition of this book did for me when I was a sophomore student just beginning to learn about textiles.
Sara J. Kadolph