The Covenant Kitchen: Food and Wine for the New Jewish Table

The Covenant Kitchen: Food and Wine for the New Jewish Table

by Jeff Morgan


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The ultimate kosher cookbook for food lovers, with more than one hundred mouthwatering recipes complete with suggested wine pairings, from the veteran cookbook authors and owners of the acclaimed Covenant Winery in California.
Filled with the flavors of Italy, Provence, North Africa, Asia, California, and Israel, these original, easy-to-prepare recipes take kosher dining to a new, contemporary level of sophistication. With more than two decades of professional food-writing and wine-making experience, Jeff and Jodie Morgan share their favorite recipes and—in a first for a kosher cookbook—detailed suggested wine pairings, to give us a cookbook that respects Jewish customs, gives traditional food creative culinary makeovers, and introduces flavorful new dishes that will quickly become family favorites. The Covenant Kitchen includes informative sidebars on how to select the right wine for any occasion, on the requirements for kosher food preparation, and on how to prepare the basics. With sample menus for Jewish holidays and the fascinating story of wine in ancient Israel and throughout Jewish history, The Covenant Kitchen puts a fresh spin on one of the world’s oldest culinary traditions.
With beautiful full-color illustrations throughout.
Published by Schocken Books and OU Press

Product Details

ISBN-13: 9780805243253
Publisher: Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group
Publication date: 03/03/2015
Pages: 272
Product dimensions: 8.20(w) x 9.30(h) x 0.90(d)

About the Author

JEFF and JODIE MORGAN are co-owners of Covenant Winery, in Berkeley, California, where they produce what wine critic Robert Parker has called “the world’s finest kosher wines.” They are the authors of seven previous cookbooks.

Read an Excerpt

Dairy | Serves 4
Sea bass has virtually become a generic term for a variety of meaty, mild-flavored, white-fleshed fish. (This does not include Chilean sea bass, which could nonetheless be used for this recipe.) Whichever kind of fresh sea bass you find at your fishmonger will work just fine here.
It’s the creamy, sweet corn relish that really makes this dish distinctive. A touch of cayenne gives it a pleasing hint of heat. Look for leafy, green bok choy in most super-markets. The “baby” version used here is the smallest and most tender kind.
Before you start cooking, separate your ingredients as they are listed below. This is the preparation order; following it will make your work in the kitchen much easier. The relish and bok choy do not need to be served piping hot. They will still be warm when the fish is ready to eat. (But you can quickly reheat them on the stovetop if you desire.)
A rich, barrel-fermented Chardonnay would be our first choice as a wine companion. But many other kinds of white wines would pair nicely as well. Try an off-dry Riesling or Gewürztraminer, for example, or a dry Roussane or Chenin Blanc.
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup diced onion
3 cups white corn kernels, fresh (4 or 5 ears) or frozen
1 red bell pepper, diced
1⁄8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 plum tomatoes, coarsely chopped
1/4 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup heavy cream
braised baby bok choy
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1-1/2 pounds baby bok choy (about 4 bunches), ends trimmed and heads halved lengthwise
4 sea bass fillets (6 to 8 ounces each), with or without skin
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon minced lemon zest
1. Make the corn relish: In a large skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the corn, bell pepper, and cayenne. Stir to mix well. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the kernels are soft, about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes and salt. Sprinkle in black pepper to taste. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 10 more minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Stir in the cream and simmer for 2 more minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, cover, and set aside.
2. Make the bok choy: In a large skillet, melt the butter with the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the bok choy, cover, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook until the greens are wilted and the fleshy parts are tender, about 5 minutes. Uncover, increase the heat to high, and cook until the liquid evaporates, about 2 min­utes. Remove the pan from the heat and adjust the seasoning with salt to taste. Cover and set aside.
3. Make the fish: Preheat the oven to 425°F. Season the fillets on both sides with salt and pepper. In a large, ovenproof skillet, heat the olive oil over high heat. When the oil begins to shimmer, place the fillets in the pan skinned-side down (or skin-side down if the fillets have skins), reduce the heat to medium, and cook until golden on the bottoms (or until the skin is crisp), about 3 minutes. Using a spatula, gently turn the fillets, taking care not to let them fall apart. Transfer the pan to the oven and bake until the flesh is opaque throughout, about 3 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and add the butter to the pan alongside the fillets. When it melts, baste the tops of the fillets with the butter. Garnish the fillets with the lemon zest.
4. To serve, divide the corn relish among 4 plates. Arrange each fillet to rest slightly on the relish. Place the bok choy to the side of the corn and fish. Season with pepper to taste.
Meat | Serves 6
Flanken are strips of beef cut lengthwise across the short rib bones. Korean-style flanken is sliced thinner than the Jewish version, then marinated and grilled. The Korean cut can be found in most supermarkets, but you may have to look for Korean-style “short ribs,” not flanken. Or, just ask your kosher butcher to slice his flanken into 1/4- to 1/2-inch-thick slices.
Because it is sliced so thin, Korean-style flanken is very tender and cooks quickly. These juicy ribs have a nutty, smoky edge and an almost fruity quality that teams up well with the tangy Asian slaw and spiced potato salad—perfect for summertime dining outdoors. This dish is also ideal for parties, because you can prepare everything well in advance and then be free to socialize with guests. The grilling takes literally only minutes, but you’ll need to prepare the meat in the morning or early afternoon to let it marinate.
In your glass, pour any fruity red wine such as Zinfandel, Syrah, Grenache, or Pinot Noir. Chilled rosé would also make an excellent accompaniment.
2 tablespoons brown sugar
12 Korean-style beef ribs (about 2-1/2 pounds)
1/4 cup soy sauce or tamari
1/4 cup rice vinegar
1/4 cup toasted sesame oil
3 tablespoons sesame chili oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
4 green onions (white parts only), cut into 1/4-inch-thick rounds
2 tablespoons soy sauce or tamari
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1/4 cup toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon sesame chili oil
Juice of 1 lime
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
1 head green cabbage, halved and sliced into thin ribbons
2 carrots, grated
6 green onions (white and light-green parts only), cut into thin rounds
1/2 cup minced fresh cilantro
2 pounds small red potatoes, halved
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon red or white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1⁄8 teaspoon chipotle pepper flakes (optional)
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup diced red bell pepper
6 green onions (white parts only), cut into thin rounds
1. Prepare the flanken: Sprinkle the brown sugar on both sides of the beef strips and set aside. In a glass or nonreactive bowl, whisk together the soy sauce, vinegar, both sesame oils, garlic, ginger, and green onions. Place the meat in a large zip-seal plastic bag. Pour the marinade over the meat and gently squeeze the bag to expel any excess air. Seal the bag and turn it over several times to cover all the meat with the marinade. Place the bag on a plate (in case it leaks) and refrigerate for 6 to 8 hours, flipping the bag every 2 hours or so.
2. While the meat is still marinating, make the coleslaw: In small glass bowl, whisk together the soy sauce, vinegar, both sesame oils, lime juice, garlic, and ginger. Place the sliced cabbage, carrots, and green onions in a large bowl. Pour the dressing over the cabbage mixture and toss gently. Add the cilantro and toss again. (The slaw can be made in advance and stored in the refrigerator for several hours. For best results, remove it from the fridge 1 hour prior to eating and allow it to return to room temperature.)
3. Make the potato salad: In a large pot, bring 3 to 4 inches of water to a boil over high heat. Add the potatoes, reduce the heat to a gentle boil, and simmer until the potatoes are tender enough to be poked easily with a fork, about 20 minutes. Drain the potatoes in a colander and rinse with cold water. Let the potatoes dry thoroughly in the colander.
4. While the potatoes are cooking, prepare their dressing. In a large bowl, whisk together the olive oil, vinegar, mustard, and garlic. Add the thyme, chipotle pepper flakes (if using), and 1/8 teaspoon salt and whisk again.
5. Add the potatoes and bell peppers to the bowl and toss gently to coat evenly. Season with salt and black pepper to taste. Sprinkle the green onions on top as garnish. Set aside or refrigerate until ready to serve. (As with the slaw, the potato salad is best at room temperature.)
6. Preheat the grill. Remove the meat from the marinade and place directly onto the grill grates. Cook about 2 minutes per side for medium-rare. Serve hot off the grill with the slaw and potato salad on the side.
Dairy | Serves 6
This bittersweet chocolate dessert may come at the end of a meal, but it steals the show. The chocolate is dark and rich, but the texture is light. Inside, a soft, hot, lava-like core can be found. You’ll love the surprise finish—a subtle kick from the cayenne pepper.
If you want to serve these soufflés fresh out of the oven to dinner guests, make the batter in advance. Fill the ramekins, cover with plastic wrap, and store in the refrigerator until ready to use or for up to 4 hours. Remove the ramekins from the refrigerator 5 minutes prior to baking.
We don’t recommend any wine here. Let the dessert shine on its own!
9 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
1-1/4 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for the ramekins
1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder
2 sticks (8 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus 2 tablespoons for the ramekins
1 ⁄3 cup granulated sugar
5 eggs
Powdered sugar, for dusting
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
2. Melt the chocolate in a double boiler, stirring until smooth. (If you don’t have a double boiler, fill a medium saucepan with 2 inches of water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and keep the water at a low simmer. Place the chocolate in a medium heatproof bowl—slightly larger at its top than the width of the saucepan; too large in diameter to descend into the water. Set the bowl with the chocolate inside the saucepan suspended over the hot water, but do not let the water touch the bowl. Stir to melt.) Stir in the cin­namon, cayenne, and vanilla until thoroughly blended. Remove the pot from the stove, but keep over the hot water so the chocolate stays soft.
3. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together the 1/4 cup flour and baking pow­der. In a large bowl, with an electric mixer, cream together the 2 sticks butter and the granulated sugar until the mixture is pale yellow, about 1 minute. Add the eggs one at a time and continue to mix until all the ingredients are blended, about 1 minute. Add the flour/baking powder mixture to the egg mixture and blend thoroughly. (The batter will be a little lumpy, but it will smooth out when the chocolate is added.)
4. Whisk the melted chocolate into the batter until smooth, about 30 seconds.
5. Lightly coat the insides of six 4-inch-wide (4-ounce) ramekins with the 2 tablespoons of butter. Dust the surface of each ramekin with 1 teaspoon of flour. Turn each ramekin upside down and gently tap to remove excess flour. Set aside.
6. Using a large spoon or a measuring cup, fill each ramekin three-fourths full. Smooth the top of each soufflé with a rubber spatula. Gently tap the bottom of each filled ramekin to help settle the batter.
7. Place the ramekins on a baking sheet and bake until the soufflés have risen about 1/2 inch above the edge of each dish, about 15 minutes. The top of each soufflé will have split open and will be crunchy.
8. Remove the ramekins from the oven and let cool for 5 minutes. Dust the top of each soufflé with powdered sugar and serve immediately.

Table of Contents

Preface by Leslie Rudd

Foreword by Rabbi Menachem Genack




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