The Cuban Sandwich: A History in Layers

by Andrew T. Huse, Bárbara C. Cruz, Jeff Houck

Overview

A delicious, multilayered tale of a legendary sandwich  

Florida Book Awards, Gold Medal for Cooking

Creative Loafing Tampa Bay Best of the Bay Awards, “Best Approach to Pressing Matters”

 

How did the Cuban sandwich become a symbol for a displaced people, win the hearts and bellies of America, and claim a spot on menus around the world? The odyssey of the Cubano begins with its hazy origins in the midnight cafés of Havana, from where it evolved into a dainty high-class hors d’oeuvre and eventually became a hearty street snack devoured by cigar factory workers. In The Cuban Sandwich, three devoted fans—Andrew Huse, Bárbara Cruz, and Jeff Houck—sort through improbable vintage recipes, sift gossip from Florida old-timers, and wade into the fearsome Tampa vs. Miami sandwich debate (is adding salami necessary or heresy?) to reveal the social history behind how this delicacy became a lunch-counter staple in the US and beyond.



The authors also interview artisans who’ve perfected the high arts of creating and combining expertly baked Cuban bread, sweet ham, savory roast pork, perfectly melted Swiss cheese, and tangy, crunchy pickles. Tips and expert insight for making Cuban sandwiches at home will have readers savoring the history behind each perfect bite.  



Publication of this work is made possible by a Sustaining the Humanities through the American Rescue Plan grant from the National Endowment for the Humanities.

 

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9780813072531
Publisher:	University Press of Florida
Publication date:	09/02/2022
Sold by:	Barnes & Noble
Format:	eBook
Pages:	180
File size:	15 MB
Note:	This product may take a few minutes to download.

About the Author

Andrew T. Huse is curator of Florida Studies at University of South Florida Libraries and the author of From Saloons to Steak Houses: A History of Tampa. 
Bárbara C. Cruz is professor of social science education and codirector of the InsideART project at the University of South Florida. 
Jeff Houck is vice president of marketing for the Columbia Restaurant Group and previously worked as food editor, writer, and blogger for the Tampa Tribune.

Table of Contents

Introduction 1

1 The Pearl 5

Copeland and Tony Moré Jr., La Segunda Central Bakery (Tampa) 13

Richard Gonzmart, The Columbia Restaurant (Tampa) 18

2 Sandwiches 24

Claudio Rodríguez, Morrison Meat Packers (Miami) 39

Nicole Vails, Versailles Restaurant (Miami) 42

3 Cigar Cities 45

Carlos Gazitua, Sergio's Restaurant (Miami) 58

Gilbert Arriaza Sr. and Gilbert Arriaza Jr., Gilbert's Bakery (Miami) 61

Ignacio Alfonso Jr., El Artesano Restaurant (Union City, New Jersey) 62

4 Magic Cities 65

Norman Van Aken, Chef and Author (Miami) 77

Melinda Lopez, Playwright and Performer (Boston, Massachusetts) 82

Michelle Bernstein, Cafe La Trova (Miami) 84

5 Exile and Resilience 89

Dennis Martínez Miranda, Cubanidad 1885 (Las Vegas, Nevada) 107

Carlos Argüelles, The Cuban Sandwich Factory (Belfast, Ireland) 110

6 Feast and Famine 113

Daniel Figueredo and Rosa Romero, Sanguich de Miami (Miami) 125

Andrew Tambuzzo, The Boozy Pig (Tampa) 131

7 Going Global 135

The Staff of Cook's Country: Test Kitchen Chefs 144

Acknowledgments 151

Notes 153

Index 163

What People are Saying About This

From the Publisher

“A fascinating blend of Cuban history, American culinary history, and stories of some of our country’s best chefs carrying on the tradition of this great preparation. Who’d have thought a sandwich was a linchpin in our culture? Well done!”—Michael Ruhlman, author of Grocery: The Buying and Selling of Food in America

“A compelling, readable history that explores themes of exile, diaspora, industry, modernity, and culinary exchange.”—Sara Camp Milam, managing editor, Southern Foodways Alliance

“Traces the complex and often contested history of the Cuban sandwich. Readers will be left craving the Cuban sandwich in its different variants.”—Luis Martínez-Fernández, author of Revolutionary Cuba: A History

Editorial Reviews

The book unpacks . . . layers of history like those of the sandwich itself . . . to understand where it came from and how it has evolved. It weaves together research and profiles of artisans who are making the sandwich in different parts of the world today.”—NPR

“Trace(s) the sandwich’s history not just as a food but as a vital expression of a complex culture, both on the island of Cuba and among the diaspora of its people.”—Tampa Bay Times

“Makes it clear the story of the Cuban sandwich is as mixed up and nuanced as the flavors of the sandwich. . . . The book is told in clean, bright prose, a pleasure to read.”—Miami Herald

“In this new perspective on a passionate, long-standing contest, University of South Florida academics Huse and Cruz and food writer Houck suss out the origins of the Cuban sandwich and steer readers through the intense, fraught debate between Miami’s and Tampa’s fiercely defended versions.”—Booklist

“An excellent, approachable resource on Cuban history told through the complexities of a beloved food item. Highly recommended for foodies and history buffs.”—Library Journal, Starred Review



“A delicious look at Cuban and Cuban American history told through its most iconic meal.”—Foreword Reviews



“Gives a detailed description of the Cuban sandwich and at the same time engages the intellectual and historical context of the creation and popularization of this sandwich.”—Latino Book Review

“A fun read that will prompt discussion. And many, many cravings.”—Orlando Sentinel

“Not only gives an impressive history of the sandwich but also offers firsthand accounts from restaurateurs and chefs who have made the preservation of the Cuban’s recipe, authenticity, and lore their mission.”—Local Palate

“This title by University of South Florida faculty Huse (Florida studies) and Bárbara Cruz (social science education) and former Tampa Tribune food editor Jeff Houck takes readers on a culinary journey. It opens with the history of colonial Cuba, moves through the waves of migration in the 20th century, and uses the layered Cuban sandwich as a metaphor for the tiers of identity experienced by generations of Cubans living in the United States. The authors explore the history of the sandwich through the lens of the modern diaspora via interviews with well-respected, multigenerational bakers, chefs, meat packers, and owners of renowned Cuban bakeries, sandwich shops, and restaurants, while also providing readers with tips and recipes on how to make their own sandwich at home. VERDICT: The authors note that their research was limited by pandemic travel restrictions and the dearth of written sources available in the United States. That said, this is an excellent, approachable resource on Cuban history told through the complexities of a beloved food item. Highly recommended for foodies and history buffs.”—Library Journal, Starred Review

“In this new perspective on a passionate, long-standing contest, University of South Florida academics Huse and Cruz and food writer Houck suss out the origins of the Cuban sandwich and steer readers through the intense, fraught debate between Miami’s and Tampa’s fiercely defended versions. Florida had Cuban settlements long before 1959’s Cuban revolution, particularly in Key West and Tampa. In addition to their cigar-rolling skills, immigrants to Tampa’s Ybor City enclave imported from Havana’s late-night eateries the medianoche (midnight in Spanish): marinated roast pork, ham, cheese, mustard, and sweet pickles pressed between slices of egg bread. Reimagined on plainer Cuban bread, it was a Tampa specialty till the explosive growth of Miami’s Cuban community. To this day, the two cities feud over whose sandwich is the ‘authentic’ Cuban sandwich (Tampa’s version adds salami). The Cuban sandwich has become a phenomenon, spawning many regional variations throughout the U.S. Even the august America’s Test Kitchen has taken on the challenge, using its technical prowess to analyze, deconstruct, and engineer a perfect Cuban sandwich.”—Booklist

From the Publisher

★ 07/01/2022

This title by University of South Florida faculty Huse (Florida studies) and Bárbara Cruz (social science education) and former Tampa Tribune food editor Jeff Houck takes readers on a culinary journey. It opens with the history of colonial Cuba, moves through the waves of migration in the 20th century, and uses the layered Cuban sandwich as a metaphor for the tiers of identity experienced by generations of Cubans living in the United States. The authors explore the history of the sandwich through the lens of the modern diaspora via interviews with well-respected, multigenerational bakers, chefs, meat packers, and owners of renowned Cuban bakeries, sandwich shops, and restaurants, while also providing readers with tips and recipes on how to make their own sandwich at home. VERDICT The authors note that their research was limited by pandemic travel restrictions and the dearth of written sources available in the United States. That said, this is an excellent, approachable resource on Cuban history told through the complexities of a beloved food item. Highly recommended for foodies and history buffs.—Gricel Dominguez

Library Journal