This cookbook features recipes for German-Jewish cuisine as it existed in Germany prior to World War II, and as refugees later adapted it in the United States and elsewhere. Because these dishes differ from more familiar Jewish food, they will be a discovery for many people. With a focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients, this indispensable collection of recipes includes numerous soups, both chilled and hot; vegetable dishes; meats, poultry, and fish; fruit desserts; cakes; and the German version of challah, Berches. These elegant and mostly easy-to-make recipes range from light summery fare to hearty winter foods. The Gropmansa mother-daughter author pairhave honored the original recipes Gabrielle learned after arriving as a baby in Washington Heights from Germany in 1939, while updating their format to reflect contemporary standards of recipe writing. Six recipe chapters offer easy-to-follow instructions for weekday meals, Shabbos and holiday meals, sausage and cold cuts, vegetables, coffee and cake, and core recipes basic to the preparation of German-Jewish cuisine. Some of these recipes come from friends and family of the authors; others have been culled from interviews conducted by the authors, prewar German-Jewish cookbooks, nineteenth-century American cookbooks, community cookbooks, memoirs, or historical and archival material. The introduction explains the basics of Jewish diet (kosher law). The historical chapter that follows sets the stage by describing Jewish social customs in Germany and then offering a look at life in the vibrant émigré community of Washington Heights in New York City in the 1940s and 1950s. Vividly illustrated with more than fifty drawings by Megan Piontkowski and photographs by Sonya Gropman that show the cooking process as well as the delicious finished dishes, this cookbook will appeal to readers curious about ethnic cooking and how it has evolved, and to anyone interested in exploring delicious new recipes.
About the Author
GABRIELLE ROSSMER GROPMAN is a visual artist and mediation professional, who was born in Germany in 1938 and emigrated to the United States in 1939. Her art has been exhibited throughout the United States as well as in Germany. A multimedia art installation about the history of her German-Jewish family was exhibited at the Villa Dessauer Municipal Museum in the town of her birth, Bamberg, Germany, in 1991 and again in 2013–14. SONYA GROPMAN, her daughter, is a painter, photographer, and writer whose work has been exhibited and published in the United States. She is involved in local sustainable agriculture in New York City. She and Gabrielle coauthor the website germanjewishcuisine.com, where they post original material about German-Jewish food and culture. Their Twitter handle is @Ger_Jew_Cuisine; their Facebook page is facebook.com/GermanJewishCuisine.
Table of Contents
Foreword by Nach Waxman • Prologue • Introduction • THE HISTORY OF JEWS IN GERMANY AND THEIR FOOD • WEEKDAY MEALS • White Bean Soup (Weisse Bohnen Suppe) (P) or (D) • Spring Pea and Asparagus Soup (Frühlingserbsen und Spargel Suppe) (D) or (P) • Celery Root and Leek Soup (Sellerie und Lauch Suppe) (P) or (D) • Vegetable Soup with Pancake Ribbons (Flädle) (D) • Calf’s Liver Soup Dumplings (Kalbsleber Klösse) (M) • Soup Dumplings (Schwammklösse) (P) or (M) • Sour Cherry Soup (Sauerkirschsuppe) (P) or (D) • Chilled Fruit Soup (Kalte Fruchtsuppe) (P) • Salmon in Aspic (Lachs in Aspik) (P) or (M) • Pan-Fried Rainbow Trout (Forelle nach Müllerin Art) (D) or (P) • Stuffed Cabbage Rolls with White Wine Sauce (Kohlrouladen mit Weissweinsauce) (M) • Boiled Beef with Fresh Horseradish (Suppenfleisch mit Frischem Meerrettich) (M) • Beef Tongue in Red Wine Sauce (Zunge in Rotweinsauce) (M) • Sweetbreads in Pastry Shells (Kalbsbries in Blätterteigpasteten) (M) • Chicken Fricassee (Hühner Frikassee) (M) • Braised Goose Giblets (Gänseklein) (M) • Hoppel-Poppel (M) • Spätzle (P) or (D) • German Pancakes (Pfannkuchen) (D) • Baked Apple Pudding with Pears (Apfel Schalet mit Birnen) (D) • Baked Rice Soufflé with Cherries (Reisauflauf) (D) • Raspberry–Red Currant Pudding (Rote Grütze) (P) or (D) • Plum Pudding (Zwetschgenpudding) (P) or (D) • SHABBOS AND HOLIDAY MEALS • Berches (P) • Chicken Soup and Rice (Hühnersuppe mit Reis) (M) • Matzo Balls (Matze Suppenklösschen) (P) or (D) • Greenkern Soup with Duck (Grünkernsuppe mit Ente) (M) • Sweet-Sour Carp in Aspic (Karpfen mit süss-saurer Sauce) (P) • Herring Salad (Heringssalat) (D) • Roast Goose (Gebratene Gans) (M) • Roast Duck (Gebratene Ente) (M) • Veal Roast (Kalbsbraten) (M) • Stuffed Veal Breast (Gefüllte Kalbsbrust) (M) • Breaded Veal Cutlets (Wiener Schnitzel) (M) • Beef Goulash (Gulasch) (M) • Sauerbraten (M) • Matzo Dumplings (Matze Knödel) (M) or (P) • Matzo Schalet (Matzeschalet) (M) or (P) • Noodle Schalet (Nudelschalet) (M) or (P) • Twice-Baked Potato Schalet (Kartoffelschalet) (P) • Almond Macaroons (Makronen) (P) • Coconut Macaroons (Kokosnussmakronen) (P) • Cinnamon Stars (Zimtsterne) (P) • Spiced Chocolate Hazelnut Cookies (Krokerle) (P) • Haman (D) • Knee Doughnuts (Knieküchlein) (D) • Matzo Fritters (Grimsele) (P) • Wine Sauce (Weinsauce) (P) • Dried Fruit Compote (Gemischtes Kompott) (P) • Chestnut Crème (Kastaniencreme) (D) • Wine Cream (Weincreme) (D) • Rice Pudding with Cream and Strawberries (Reis à la Trautmannsdorf) (D) • Meringue Cups with Berries (Meringue Gebäck mit Beeren) (D) • Cheesecake with Mürbeteig (Käsekuchen mit Mürbeteig) (D) • Emperor’s Cake (Kaisertorte) (P) or (D) • Matzo Coffee (Matze Kaffee) (D) • SAUSAGE AND COLD CUTS (WURST UND AUFSCHNITT) • Head Cheese (Sülze) (M) • Lentil Soup with Ringwurst (Linsensuppe mit Ringwurst) (M) • VEGETABLES • Beet and Celery Root Salad with Watercress (Rote Rüben und Sellerie Salat mit Kresse) (P) • Cabbage Slaw (Krautsalat) (P) • Carrots with Parsley (Gelbe Rüben mit Petersilie) (P) or (D) or (M) • Cucumber Salad (Gurkensalat) (P) • Green Bean Salad with Summer Savory (Bohnensalat mit Bohnenkraut) (P) • Mushroom Sauce (Champignonsauce) (P) or (M) • Mustard Pickles (Senfgurken) (P) • Pan-Fried Potatoes with Caraway Seeds (Geröstete Kartoffeln mit Kümmel) (P) or (D) • Potato Dumplings (Kartoffel Klösse) (P) or (D) • Potato Pancakes (Reibekuchen) (P) or (D) • Potato Puffs (Kartoffelpuffer) (P) • Opa’s Potato Salad (Opa’s Kartoffelsalat) (P) or (M) • Potato Soup (Kartoffelsuppe) (P) or (D) or (M) • Radish Salad (Rettichsalat) (P) • Sweet-Sour Red Cabbage (Süss-Saures Rotkraut) (M) or (P) • Kohlrabi in White Sauce (Kohlrabi in weisser Sauce) (P) or (M) or (D) • Savoy Cabbage in White Sauce (Wirsing in weisser Sauce) (P) or (M) or (D) • Spinach in White Sauce (Spinat in weisser Sauce) (D) or (P) or (M) • Vegetables Vinaigrette (Gemischte Gemüse Vinaigrette) (P) • PARTIES AND COFFEE AND CAKE • Liptauer Cheese (Liptauer) (D) • Stuffed Eggs (Gefüllte Eier) (D) • Smoked Salmon Canapés (Rauchlachs Kanapeen) (D) • Chicken Liver Pâté (Hühnerleberpastete) (M) • Meat Salad (Fleischsalat) (M) • White Wine Punch with Strawberries (Erdbeerbowle) (P) • Almond Biscuits (Mandel Stangen) (P) • Almond Pockets (Mandel Maultaschen) (D) • Butter Cookies (Butterplätzchen) (D) • Apple Cake with Yeast Dough (Apfelkuchen) (D) • Gugelhopf (D) • Plum Cake (Pflaumenkuchen) (D) • Orange Cake (Orangentorte) (P) or (D) • Marble Cake (Marmorkuchen) (D) • Chocolate Hazelnut Torte (Schokolade und Haselnuss Torte) (P) • Chocolate Cherry Cake (Schoko-Kirsch-Kuchen) (D) • Hedgehog Cake (Igel) (D) • Ladyfingers (Löffelbiskuits) (P) • CORE RECIPES • Vegetable Broth (Gemüsebrühe) (P) • Beef Broth (Fleischbrühe) (M) • Chicken Broth (Hühnerbrühe) (M) • White Sauce (Weisse Sauce) (P) or (D) or (M) • Raspberry Syrup (Himbeersaft) (P) • Butter Dough (Mürbeteig) (D) • Yeast Dough (Hefeteig) (D) • Duck and Goose Fat (Geflügel Schmalz) (M) • Herb Mayonnaise (Kräutermayonnaise) • Notes on Ingredients • Resources • Bibliography • Acknowledgments • List of Recipes by Dietary Category • Index
What People are Saying About This
“Spending time with Sonya and Gabrielle Gropman is like dropping in on old friends for an afternoon kaffeeklatsch. Welcoming hosts, they are also eloquent storytellers who know how to cook. Their book is a rich and enticing blend of recipes, history, and family memoir that documents a vanishing cuisine, while expanding our grasp of what Jewish cooking can be.”
“A full and beautiful portrait of German-Jewish cuisine, from its roots in Germany to its flourishing in New York City. The recipes and stories from mother and daughter ooze with love. This is a very special cookbook and such a valuable slice of history.”
“An absolute joy to read. Written by a mother and daughter team, The German-Jewish Cookbook wonderfully chronicles their experiences hunting down family recipes and gathering the many enthralling stories of the foods with which they grew up. . . . A book that will make a contribution in culinary iconography and that for me, personally, opened up a new glimpse into my own German-Jewish past.”
“A long-anticipated examination of a cuisine steeped in the rich, tragic history of a people for whom the flavor of home is a direct connection to the past. It is a deeply personal, ethno-culinary marvel, and as extraordinary to cook from as it is to read.”
“More than a cookbook . . . a hybrid of memoir, family and cultural history, and ethnography. So many recipes, traditions, and details of daily German-Jewish life were lost in the abyss of its twentieth-century history, along with entire communities. The German-Jewish Cookbook, written for Jews and non-Jews alike, gives these wonderful recipes for all occasions new life and provides fascinating reading as well.”