In her second cookbook, Sally Butcher, London-based food writer and proprietor of Persepolis, a Persian food emporium, turns her attention to vegetarian dishes from the Middle East. “I am an omnivore, but I don’t like meat very much,” she writes. Her delightful book is broken down into sections including bread and pastry, herbs and salad, rice and grains, and vegetables. Interesting facts make Butcher’s passion for and vast knowledge of Middle Eastern cuisine obvious from the start (her husband is Iranian, and she first learned to cook Middle Eastern dishes from her mother-in-law). Simple and refreshing, Butcher’s dishes will tempt even the most enthusiastic carnivore. Persian rice cake is made with saffron steeped in water and spinach; turmeric is added to cheese-baked egg stuffed tomatoes; pumpkin is mixed with bulgar in the casings for Mr. Hadda’s pumpkin kibbeh; and grape syrup brightens cabbage and vine leaves. Recipes are accompanied by vivid food photographs. (Aug.)
Sally Butcher has yet again produced an excellent and fascinating group of recipes with infectious humor and charm.
"Novice and experienced chefs who have little interest in Middle Eastern vegetarianism should, nevertheless, read this book by the author of 'Persia in Peckham', Butcher's tongue-in-cheek personal narrative is simply irresistible. Her more than 130 recipes yield, in addition to giggles, a great deal of wisdom. Side bars on such subjects as street food from Marrakesh to Iran, olives, and pantry items are all educational and occasionally eye-opening. Not only is almost every recipe accompanied by elegant color photographs, but each recipe features enough patter to coax anyone into the 'try it, you'll like it' mindset. The range is enticing, from naan, beet and orange salad, and fried-egg pita pockets to carrot and cardamom soup, Middle Eastern ratatouille, and fig jam with chopped pistachios."
"Novice and experienced chefs who have little interest in Middle Eastern vegetarianism should, nevertheless, read this book by the author of 'Persia in Peckham', Butcher's tongue-in-cheek personal narrative is simply irresistible. Her more than 130 recipes yield, in addition to giggles, a great deal of wisdom. Side bars on such subjects as street food from Marrakesh to Iran, olives, and pantry items are all educational and occasionally eye-opening. Not only is almost every recipe accompanied by elegant color photographs, but each recipe features enough patter to coax anyone into the 'try it, you'll like it' mindset. The range is enticing, from naan, beet and orange salad, and fried-egg pita pockets to carrot and cardamom soup, Middle Eastern ratatouille, and fig jam with chopped pistachios."
It's rare for me to read a cookbook cover to cover, but a trip to Veggiestan (a fictional region including Turkey, the Levant, and Middle East) while sitting in bed with a cup of mint tea, was irresistible. Knowledgeable as all get out, Ms. Butcher is a London-based food writer who, with her husband, runs the renowned Persepolis- a Middle Eastern food store where her enthusiasm and tenacity is in no short supply. This comes bursting through the pages of her new book- transforming scholarly authenticity into joy. And while you will find many vegetarian recipes from Turkey, the array of recipes from elsewhere in Veggiestan is dazzling in their scope and in their use of exotic (but findable) ingredients.
Don't let Sally's decidedly non-Middle Eastern name put you off. She runs London's Persepolis, a Middle Eastern emporium. That means she admires more than one country. She is also a part-time vegetarian, like many people in the Middle East who use meat sparingly, as a flavor. Each chapter includes recipes from all over the Middle East, some from her suppliers, others from travels or family, 'The New Middle Eastern Vegetarian' is a handsome book full of thoughtful recipes that celebrate vegetables- but could easily fit into a meal with meat. Next time you are in London, you'll want to explore Persepolis- but till then, explore Sally's recipes.
Last week, I picked up Sally Butcher's 'The New Middle Eastern Vegetarian' and I couldn't be happier. The book's subtitle is 'Modern Recipes from Veggistan,' but its 260-plus pages do include dishes with eggs and cheese. The author isn't vegetarian and admits to a 'terrible weakness for chorizo,' yet she does cut a broad swath of delicious territory that even vegans will want to explore. The recipes are tempting, enough so that you will want to go boldly out to find mint sauce, fresh turmeric, harissa paste, date syrup, truffle oil and more.
