Lassen Volcanic National Park: Your Complete Hiking Guide

by Mike White

Overview

Discover some of Northern California's best-kept secrets in the most comprehensive guide to Lassen Volcanic National Park, by experienced author Mike White. Explore bubbling mudpots, wildflower-carpeted meadows, forest-rimmed lakes, and view-packed summits on trails ranging from easy to strenuous. This essential guide features more than 90 day hikes and backpacking trips to popular destinations, such as Lassen Peak, Bumpass Hell, and Manzanita Lake, plus lesser-known areas like Boiling Springs Lake, Terminal Geyser, and Cinder Cone.

In addition to Lassen Volcanic National Park, there are trips in the Hat Creek Reservation Area, the greater Susanville-Chester region, Warner Valley, Butte Lake, Drakesbad, and McArthur-Burney Falls Memorial State Park.

Completely updated from the previous edition, this guide gives detailed trip narratives and easy-to-scan icons highlighting the best spots for views, hydrothermal features, wildflowers, camping, and swimming.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9780899977997
Publisher:	Wilderness Press
Publication date:	04/19/2016
Edition description:	Fifth Edition
Pages:	528
Product dimensions:	6.00(w) x 8.90(h) x 1.30(d)

About the Author

MIKE WHITE was raised in the suburbs of Portland, Oregon, in the shadow of Mount Hood. His mother didn’t drive, so walking was a way of life for her, as it became for her young son in tow. When Mike reached driving age, he began to explore farther afield, hiking, backpacking, and climbing in the Cascades of Oregon and Washington. He further honed his outdoor skills while attending Seattle Pacific University. After earning a bachelor’s degree in political science, Mike and his wife, Robin, relocated to the high desert of Reno, Nevada, where he was drawn to the beautiful and sunny Sierra. In the early 1990s, Mike left his last “real” job (with an engineering firm) and began writing full time. His first project for Wilderness Press was an update and expansion of Luther Linkhart’s classic guide, The Trinity Alps. His first solo project was Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park. He is the author of the popular Snowshoe series, whose books include Snowshoe Trails Tahoe, Best Snowshoe Trails of California, and Snowshoe Trails of Yosemite. Mike’s other titles include Kings Canyon National Park, Sequoia National Park, Backpacking Nevada, and 50 Classic Hikes in Nevada (University of Nevada Press). Recently, he ventured hundreds of miles around Lake Tahoe and wrote Afoot & Afield: Tahoe–Reno and Top Trails Lake Tahoe. Mike has also written for Sunset and Backpacker magazines and for the Reno Gazette Journal. Mike also teaches hiking, backpacking, and snowshoeing classes at Truckee Meadows Community College and is a frequent speaker for nonprofit groups. In addition, he can be found dispensing trail information while working part-time at REI in Reno, where he lives with Robin and their youngest son, Stephen, along with their two labs, Barkley and Griffin. David, his oldest son, resides in the area with his wife, Candace.

Read an Excerpt

Southwest Entrance Trailheads

Trip 1: BROKEOFF MOUNTAIN

• DIFFICULTY: MS
• DIRECTION: out-and-back
• TRIP TYPE: Day hike
• DISTANCE: 7-mile out-and-back
• ELEVATIONS: 6,635'/9,235', +2,700'/–2,700'
• SEASON: Mid-July–October
• USE: Moderate
• MAP: Lassen Peak

INTRODUCTION A stiff, 3.5-mile climb (which may feel more like 5 miles) leads to one of Lassen Volcanic’s more dramatic vistas, from the summit of 9,235-foot Brokeoff Mountain, so named for the ruggedly sheer north face of the peak. Not only will successful summiteers enjoy a superb view of Lassen Peak; this is also the best vantage point for examining the remnants of ancient Mount Tehama’s caldera. The scenery extends to the southern Cascades (including Mount Shasta), northern Sierra, Sacramento Valley, and the coastal mountain ranges. Also notable is the trail itself, which travels through serene forest, passes by flower-covered meadows, visits dancing streams, and offers a short side excursion to the quiet surroundings of shallow Forest Lake.

Although this route is far less popular than the Lassen Peak Trail, plenty of hikers set their sights on Brokeoff Mountain, whose small summit can seem a bit crowded with more than a handful of hikers. Snow lingers on the upper slopes of the mountain until midsummer—if you plan to climb earlier in the season, consider bringing an ice ax. Water is available from tributaries of Mill Creek along the first half of the route only; make sure to pack plenty of water for the second half of the ascent, which is exposed to the sun at relatively high altitudes. Valley dwellers should watch for signs of altitude sickness, and everyone should make a hasty retreat from the upper slopes when thunderstorms are threatening. A 1.25-mile trail connecting the Brokeoff Mountain and Heart Lake Trails is shown on some maps, but it has long been abandoned. These cautions aside, the trip to Brokeoff Mountain is one of the park’s best adventures.

DIRECTIONS TO TRAILHEAD Follow the Main Park Road 0.5 mile from the south boundary (5.0 miles from CA 36) to the well-marked parking area on the east shoulder. The parking area is 0.4 mile south of the southwest entrance station, so self -registration is required for entry into Lassen Volcanic National Park; fee envelopes are provided at the parking area.

GPS N40° 25.851' W121° 32.166'

DESCRIPTION On the opposite shoulder from the parking area, wood steps lead west up the hillside and past a trailhead signboard before a singletrack trail continues the climb through verdant patches of wildflowers and tall thickets of alders, well watered by spring-fed tributaries of an unnamed creek that drains Forest Lake and the southeast slopes of Brokeoff Mountain. The trail crosses these rivulets a few times while proceeding up the slope through a mixed forest of Western white pines, lodgepole pines, and firs. The grade momentarily eases near a pond/meadow in a shallow depression on the left. Resuming the climb, you eventually reach a small, flower-filled meadow, where Brokeoff Mountain makes the first in a series of fleeting appearances. Just before the path bends to cross the main branch of the creek, an unmarked, lesser-used trail veers right (north) to Forest Lake, 1.2 miles from the trailhead.

Side Trip to Forest Lake Without any remarkable scenery, decent swimming, or trout, Forest Lake won’t make anyone’s list of must-see destinations. However, in early summer, the short stroll may attract wildflower enthusiasts who don’t mind dealing with the corresponding hordes of mosquitoes. Follow the right-hand path north from the unmarked junction alongside a tiny stream about 200–250 yards to the shallow, log-strewn lake. As few of the hikers bound for Brokeoff Mountain’s summit take this diversion, Forest Lake’s principal attraction may be a healthy dose of solitude. End Side Trip

From the junction, hop across the main branch of the creek and continue the steady climb up the left side of the drainage onto the southeast slope of Brokeoff Mountain. Wind up the slope through diminishing forest, which now includes mountain hemlocks, to gain the south ridge. Although the route up the pinemat manzanita–covered south ridge would seem to be the most logical line to the summit, the trail follows the steep ridge for only a short stretch before beginning a lengthy, ascending traverse across the virtually shadeless, gravelly southwest side of the peak. Along with a few stunted whitebark pines, tufts of subalpine and alpine plants higher upslope maintain a foothold in the otherwise sterile looking soil; in early season, a colorful display of widely scattered wildflowers lines the trail. The trail eventually switchbacks near the mountain’s west ridge and then proceeds on another traverse, nearly as long as the previous one, above timberline to the ridge crest, where you’ll have a prelude to the incredible vista at the top. A short climb from there leads to the summit.

Not surprisingly, the dominant feature of the 360-degree view from the summit is Lassen Peak, situated at the culmination of a sinuous ridge that winds northeast from your viewpoint. Other notable peaks to the northeast include Mount Diller, Pilot Pinnacle, Ski Heil Peak, and Eagle Peak. Geologists theorize that this ridge is what remains of a collapsed caldera, a remnant of ancient Mount Tehama, an 11,000-foot stratovolcano that once dominated the surrounding landscape. However, Lassen Peak is not one of Tehama’s leftovers, but a plug dome volcano that formed on the ancestral mountain’s northern flank. Additional points of interest visible from the top of Brokeoff Mountain include Chaos Crags and Mount Shasta to the north, giant Lake Almanor to the south, and, on clear days, the Sacramento Valley backdropped by the Coast Range to the west and Klamath Mountains to the northwest.

Table of Contents

Acknowledgments xiii

Preface to the Fifth Edition xiv

Introduction 1

Human History 4

Flora and Fauna 13

Geology 22

Climate 28

Traveling the Backcountry 31

Fees 31

About Lassen and Surrounding Lands 31

Wilderness Ethics and Trail Courtesy 37

Maps 39

Wilderness Permits 41

Wilderness Use Regulations for Lassen Volcanic National Park 41

Backpacking Equipment Checklist 43

About This Guide 45

Symbols 46

Trip Information 46

Trip Description 47

Chapter 1 Lassen Scenic Byway Road Log 48

Segment 1 Main Park Road Through Lassen Volcanic National Park 51

Segment 2 CA 44 from Crossroads Junction to Old Station 70

Segment 3 CA 44 from Old Station to CA 36 Junction 73

Segment 4 CA 36 from CA 44 Junction to CA 89 Junction East of Mineral 75

Segment 5 CA 89 from Old Station Through Hat Creek Valley 79

Chapter 2 Lassen Scenic Byway Trip 82

Introduction to the Main Park Road 82

Southwest Entrance Trailheads

Trip 1 Brokeoff Mountain 87

Trip 2 Mill Creek Falls 91

Trip 3 Ridge Lakes 94

Road Summit Trailheads

Trip 4 Bumpass Hell to Kings Creek Picnic Area 97

Trip 5 Lassen Peak 102

Trip 6 Paradise Meadows 110

Trip 7 Terrace, Shadow, and Cliff Lakes 112

Kings Creek Meadows Trailheads

Trip 8 Cold Boiling Lake and Crumbaugh Lake 114

Trip 9 Kings Creek to Southwest Campground 117

Trip 10 Twin Meadows 120

Trip 11 Upper Kings Creek 123

Trip 12 Sifford Lakes 124

Trip 13 Kings Creek Falls 127

Trip 14 Kings Creek Falls and Bench Lake Loop 130

Summit Lake Trailheads

Trip 15 Summit Lake 132

Trip 16 Corral Meadow 134

Trip 17 Corral Meadow-Swan Lake Loop 136

Trip 18 Echo and Twin Lakes 140

Trip 19 Cluster and Twin Lakes Loop 143

Trip 20 Dersch Meadows to Cliff Lake 147

Emigrant Pass Trailheads

Trip 21 Nobles Trail to Badger Flat 151

Trip 22 Hat Lake to Paradise Meadows 154

Trip 23 Devastated Area Interpretive Trail 156

Manzanita Lake Trailheads

Trip 24 Crags Lake 157

Trip 25 Manzanita Creek 161

Trip 26 Manzanita Lake 164

Trip 27 Lily Pond Nature Trail 167

Trip 28 Nobles Trail to Lost Creek 169

Introduction to the Hat Creek Recreation Area and Thousand Lakes Wilderness 172

Bunchgrass Trailhead

Trip 29 Durbin and Barrett Lakes 176

Hat Creek Trailheads

Trip 30 Spattercone Nature Trail 178

Trip 31 Subway Cave 180

Trip 32 Pacific Crest Trail: Subway Cave to Hat Creek Rim 184

Trip 33 Hat Creek Trail 187

Forest Road 22 Trailhead

Trip 34 Pacific Crest Trail to Hat Creek Rim Lookout 191

Mud Lake Trailhead

Trip 35 Pacific Crest Trail Hat Creek Rim 194

Tamarack Trailhead

Trip 36 Barrett Lake-Lake Filer Loop 198

Cypress Trailhead

Trip 37 Upper Twin, Everett, and Magee Lakes, and Magee Peak 201

Magee Trailhead

Trip 38 Magee Peak 205

Introduction to Butte Lake and Caribou Wilderness 208

Butte Lake Trailheads

Trip 39 Bathtub Lake Loop 211

Trip 40 Prospect Peak 214

Trip 41 Cinder Cone Nature Trail 217

Trip 42 Lower Twin-Horseshoe-Snag Lakes Loop 221

Trip 43 Widow-Jakey-Snag Lakes Loop 229

Cone Lake Trailhead

Trip 44 Widow Lake 236

Trip 45 Triangle, Twin, and Turnaround Lakes 239

Caribou Lake Trailhead

Trip 46 Middle Caribou Lakes Loop 243

Trip 47 Emerald, Rim, and Cypress Lakes 247

Silver Lake Trailhead

Trip 48 Trail Lake from Silver Lake 249

Echo Lake Trailhead

Trip 49 Trail Lake from Echo Lake 251

Hay Meadow Trailhead

Trip 50 Beauty, Evelyn, Long, and Hidden Lakes Loop 253

Introduction to the Greater Susanville-Chester Area 258

Eagle Lake Trailheads

Trip 51 Eagle Lake Recreation Trail 260

Trip 52 Osprey Overlook Trail 263

Susanville Trailhead

Trip 53 Bizz Johnson Trail: Susanville to Devils Corral 265

Lake Almanor Trailhead

Trip 54 Lake Almanor Recreation Trail 268

Introduction to Juniper Lake 271

Juniper Lake Trailheads

Trip 55 Mount Harkness 274

Trip 56 Juniper Lake Loop 279

Trip 57 Crystal Lake 282

Trip 58 Inspiration Point 284

Trip 59 Horseshoe and Indian Lakes Loop 287

Trip 60 Horseshoe, Snag, and Swan Lakes Loop 290

Trip 61 Cameron Meadow-Grassy Creek Loop 297

Trip 62 Jakey Lake 301

Trip 63 Jakey Lake-Widow Lake Loop 303

Introduction to Warner Valley and Drakesbad 310

Warner Valley Trailhead

Trip 64 Warner Valley to Mount Harkness 313

Trip 65 Lower Kings Creek to Corral Meadow 317

Drakesbad Trailheads

Trip 66 Boiling Springs Lake 320

Trip 67 Terminal Geyser and Little Willow Lake 325

Trip 68 Drake Lake 330

Trip 69 Devils Kitchen 334

Trip 70 Sifford Lakes 338

Trip 71 Kings Creek Falls 342

Trip 72 Corral Meadow Loop 346

Introduction to the Southern Borderlands 351

Willow Lake Trailhead

Trip 73 Willow Lake to Terminal Geyser 355

Domingo Spring Trailhead

Trip 74 Pacific Crest Trail: Northbound to Drakesbad 359

CA 36 Trailhead

Trip 75 Pacific Crest Trail: CA 36 to Domingo Spring 363

Spencer Meadow Trailhead

Trip 76 Spencer Meadow Loop 366

Trip 77 Blue Lake 371

Blue Lake Loop Trailhead

Trip 78 North Arm Rice Creek to Blue Lake 374

Martin Creek Trailhead

Trip 79 Heart Lake via Glassburner Meadows 376

South Fork Digger Creek Trailhead

Trip 80 Heart Lake via South Fork Digger Creek 381

Mill Creek Trailhead

Trip 81 Mill Creek Trail 382

Deer Creek Trailhead

Trip 82 Deer Creek Trail 387

Black Rock Trailhead

Trip 83 Mill Creek Trail-Ishi Wilderness 389

Chapter 3 Bucks Lake Wilderness Trips 394

Introduction to Bucks Lake Wilderness 394

CA 70 Trailhead

Trip 84 Pacific Crest Trail: Belden to Three Lakes 398

Silver Lake Trailhead

Trip 85 Silver Lake to GoldLake 401

Trip 86 Silver Lake to Spanish Peak 403

Bucks Summit Trailhead

Trip 87 Bucks Summit to Spanish Peak 407

Bucks Creek Trailhead

Trip 88 Bucks Creek Loop 409

Trip 89 Bucks Creek to Mill Creek Campground 411

Mill Creek Campground Trailhead

Trip 90 Bucks Lake Wilderness Loop 414

Mill Creek Trailhead

Trip 91 Mill Creek to Three Lakes 420

Chapter 4 McArthur-Burney Falls Memorial State Park Trips 424

Introduction to McArthur-Burney Falls Memorial State Park 424

Burney Falls Trailhead

Trip 92 Falls Loop 426

Trip 93 Headwaters Pool-Pacific Crest Trail Loop 429

Trip 94 Burney Creek-Rim Trail Loop 431

Chapter 5 McArthur-Burney Falls Memorial State Part Trips (continued)

Pioneer Trailhead

Trip 95 Pioneer Cemetery Trail 433

Chapter 5 Lassen Park Winter Trips 435

Introduction to the Southwest Entrance Winter Area 437

Southwest Entrance Trailhead

Trip 96 Forest Lake Loop 440

Trip 97 Brokeoff Mountain 443

Trip 98 Sulphur Works 445

Trip 99 Ridge Lakes 448

Trip 100 Diamond Peak Loop 450

Trip 101 Emerald Lake and Lake Helen 455

Trip 102 Lassen Peak 458

Trip 103 Lassen Park Traverse 462

Introduction to Manzanita Lake and Devastated Winter Areas 471

Manzanita Lake Trailhead

Trip 104 Manzanita Lake 473

Trip 105 Reflection Lake 474

Trip 106 Chaos Jumbles 475

Trip 107 Chaos Crags 476

Trip 108 Manzanita Creek 477

Trip 109 Nobles Emigrant Loop 479

Trip 110 Devastated Area 480

Trip 111 Devastated Area to Summit Lake 482

Appendixes 485

I Backpacks and Day Hikes/Winter Trips Features Charts 485

II The Bear Facts and Other Animal Concerns 491

III Minimum-Impact Stock Regulations 496

IV Nonprofit Organizations 498

V Quick Guide to Frequently Used Numbers and Websites 499

VI Suggested Reading 501

Index 502

About the Author 512