Here are two very different versions of Country Cooking. Hopping is the much-loved ``Pioneer Lady,'' author of The Lazy Days of Summer Cookbook ( LJ 4/15/92). Like her previous titles, this one offers home recipes accompanied by nostalgic memories of times gone by. The focus is on the fall, from harvest-time and Indian summer through Thanksgiving, and there are many poems and hymns of gratitude scattered throughout the recipes. Some readers may find the text a bit too syrupy, but there is sure to be demand. Wyler, former food editor of Food & Wine and the author of Cooking for a Crowd ( LJ 4/15/88), moved from New York City to a rural Pennsylvania town several years ago and has become a real convert to country life. Her recipes, which have homespun names like Dessert-First Strawberry Shortcake and Mrs. Lewis's Pickles, use simple ingredients and are generally uncomplicated but not necessarily unsophisticated--Sauteed Turkey Cutlets in Red Currant Cream Sauce, for example, may not fit everyone's idea of country cooking. However, most recipes are both delicious and easy to prepare, and Wyler has an appealing writing style. Recommended for most collections.