Behind More Binoculars: Interviews with Acclaimed Birdwatchers
224
Behind More Binoculars: Interviews with Acclaimed Birdwatchers
224Hardcover
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Overview
Product Details
| ISBN-13: | 9781784271091 |
|---|---|
| Publisher: | Pelagic Publishing |
| Publication date: | 12/15/2017 |
| Pages: | 224 |
| Product dimensions: | 5.70(w) x 8.60(h) x 0.90(d) |
About the Author
Read an Excerpt
CHAPTER 1
FRANK GARDNER
Frank Gardner is best known as the BBC's Security Correspondent. He is an avid birdwatcher. While in Saudi Arabia in 2004 he was shot six times in an attack by terrorists, leaving him partly paralysed in the legs and dependent on a wheelchair. He was born in the 1960s.
INTERVIEWED BY KEITH BETTON
Where did it all start for you with birding?
I was about ten, my mother got me into it, and we thought she was a bit mad standing on windswept North Sea beaches in Holland when we lived there. I remember she was terribly excited one winter when she saw a Nutcracker, which sounded quite fun to me at the age of ten. But I couldn't get her fascination with it, as she usually seemed to choose to birdwatch in very bleak and rather inhospitable places.
But she persuaded me to give it a try, I was given my first pair of fairly basic binoculars and it became quite fun. However, I was completely put off it three years later when I went to boarding school because the housemaster was a birdwatcher, and therefore the epitome of uncool, so I wanted nothing to do with him and his hobby and it took me twenty years to come back to it. And when I think of all the amazing places I backpacked round in central Asia, Latin America, Southeast Asia, Vietnam, Cambodia and Brazil and I wasn't a birder then! I do remember going through a forest climbing a volcano in Chile and seeing a wonderful big black woodpecker with a red crest, and subsequently I realised it must have been a Magellanic Woodpecker.
It wasn't until I was living in Bahrain and my mum came to stay in spring. I took her out for a picnic and we sat in this lovely oasis and a bright yellow bird shot past, then a few minutes later a bright red bird went past. I realised it was time to find out what these were so I tracked down the natural history guide there – Howard King, who's still there today – and of course the yellow bird was a Golden Oriole on migration and the red one was a Madagascar Fody. People in Bahrain keep them as exotic pets and release them, so in Bahrain and Dubai you have these colonies of invasive birds like Zebra Waxbill, fodies and even African whydahs in some parts of Dubai. But what it meant to me was a need to find out what the shorebirds were, as they must be really exotic – only to find that they were plain old European Curlews, Whimbrels and Ringed Plovers – but I found that the tiny island of Bahrain had a very rich avifauna.
It was when I started travelling to Saudi for business that things really opened up. I went to the southwest where there is a wonderful fly route – you can see a lot of the African species in Saudi and Yemen such as Bateleur, Hamerkop, Dark Chanting Goshawk (if you're really lucky), Yemen Thrush, Olive Pigeon, and Amethyst Starling, which is the most stunning bird.
Was there anyone else in your life interested in birds?
Subsequently Dr Stuart Butchart who worked for Birdlife International in Cambridge. I've birded a few times with him in East Anglia and he showed me my first Stone-curlew in Suffolk and also my first Water Rail at Titchwell. He's also a wheelchair birder but it doesn't put him off and he goes everywhere.
What was your first pair of binoculars?
They were pretty crude, 7×25, heavy metal. The ones I have now are Steiner, 8×40. About four or five years ago, at my request, my mum gave me a scope and a tripod for my birthday, but to be honest I don't use it that much as the eyepiece is angled upwards, which is rubbish for me in a wheelchair as I need one that I can look straight down.
Were you a member of any bird clubs?
I did join the YOC but we were living in Holland at the time so I didn't get involved.
Did you use bird books or keep notebooks as a young birder?
I used Peterson, Mountfort and Hollom. I did keep very detailed notebooks when I was ten or so – and still have them – with maps of Hampshire where we lived, where the nests were, dates when they hatched. It's very interesting because the pattern of bird life has changed. My parents bought a cottage near Selborne in northeast Hampshire in 1971 – at the time the fields were wet and quite overgrown, and every time I walked through I'd put up Snipe, saw Woodcock there in the woods, Whinchat, and I saw my one and only Lesser Spotted Woodpecker in the garden – and have never seen them there since. Instead we regularly get things like Buzzard and Kingfisher.
Did you show any interest in Gilbert White?
We went to his museum, and in fact my parents' cottage was mentioned in his account of the Great Storm of 1774. I remember hearing Cuckoos in the 1970s, saw a few Tree Sparrows and House Sparrows, hardly any of which you see any more. Siskins were plentiful in the larches on the hangers.
It sounds to me as if you didn't get into twitching, you just enjoyed seeing things where you lived.
Between the ages of about ten and twelve I was quite scientific about it, plotting behaviour and movements, and I did a lot of drawing. Back then there was a thing called Rotring which was Indian ink drawing with a 0.3 mm fine pen and I produced a paper magazine of what was going on at the time which I'd give out to friends. I used to go and stay with friends from school in places like Norfolk and Romney Marsh and we'd go birdwatching together.
So did you start birdwatching post-university?
I didn't start again till I was thirty-one, triggered by the Golden Oriole/Fody experience, and realising I had enough time to go round and explore. I had a Mustang soft-top convertible so I was able to drive round Bahrain with the roof down and get down to a remote stretch of coast where I was stunned at the lines of Greater Flamingo there, so I bought a long lens and started to take photos of birds. Seeing European Roller on migration ... and I was there for another two or three years and you could set the date by the days that the European Bee-eaters would come through in April and October. I'd literally wake up hearing their call and thinking, 'The Bee-eaters are here – it must be the 24th.'
Did you get into any tricky situations there?
It was always tricky in Saudi Arabia, particularly in the wild areas outside the city where the view is that a Westerner with binoculars has to be a spy – CIA, Mossad or whatever. But I used to go straight to the nearest National Guard checkpoint or police station and declare myself up front, where I was staying, and that I was there to look at birds, show them my bird book and ask if they knew where I could see them. So if I was stopped later on I could tell them to go and see Captain So-and-So because he knows what I'm doing. This would have been impossible without being able to speak Arabic, because they didn't have any English then. And there were some incredible birds – for example I've got a photo of six Steppe Eagles perched in a thorn bush. But definitely quite tricky, especially photographing with a long lens.
Is there anywhere in the Middle East you haven't been birding – for example Syria?
I have been to Syria – I spent an afternoon birding in Ghouta, which of course is now synonymous with the terrible gas attack in August 2013. It's quite high up in the foothills on the Syria side of the Lebanon Mountains and I was primarily looking for raptors, but saw Finsch's Wheatear there. I went to Palmyra in 1992 – this was just before I took up birding again, so of course I wasn't looking for Bald Ibis!
Probably one of the most fascinating places is Socotra, the island off the tip of the Horn of Africa, geographically part of the African continent but politically part of Yemen. I managed to get a visa and spent a brilliant week there as there are about a dozen endemics – including some which at the time were classified as subspecies such as the Socotra Buzzard, which is now a species on its own, Socotra Starling and Socotra Sunbird. I was staying right up in the mountains filming with a UN team of scientists who were trying to preserve it as a biosphere, and we saw Forbes-Watson's Swift. We went about 1,400 metres up into the Haghir Mountains staying in a remote village. I asked the locals about owls and they took me through a dark plantation and orchard and there were these two tiny Socotra Scops Owls – it's amazing somehow that you come across species when you least expect to find them.
Further north, in Saudi Arabia, there's a place called Al Baha in the southwest. It's pretty remote and bleak but in some of the desert wadis there are pine trees and in just one hour there I came across African Eagle-Owl, Brown Woodland Warbler, Arabian Waxbill and Long-billed Pipit.
Have you done any birding in Iraq?
I was there during the 2003 invasion staying in Basra and had a wonderful afternoon off. We pitched our tents on the roof of Saddam's old palace – well, I say old, but it was actually quite new, built for one of his reprobate sons, and I'm not sure it was ever lived in. There was a very big walled garden of several acres and it was a very benign time – there were White-tailed Plovers and what I suspect in retrospect were Iraq Babblers. This was April and there were some other fabulous species on migration.
I also went to Iran. It's really not a good place to have binoculars, but before I was injured I walked right up from the last bus stop in the north of Tehran to quite high up in the Alborz Mountains. That was the first and only time I've seen Red-fronted Serin.
I went to Qeshm Island and looked without success for Great Stone-curlew, which was disappointing, but apart from that there was nothing that I hadn't already seen in Dubai.
I've been to Afghanistan four or five times embedded with the military. At Kandahar airfield, at the western end of the camp, there's this dreadful cesspit just before the perimeter of the camp and (if you can stand the smell) last time I was there I saw flocks of Rosy Starling in full plumage.
In Pakistan I climbed from Islamabad into the Margalla Hills and saw White-capped Water Redstart.
In your travels you've obviously interviewed royalty and very senior politicians. Have you ever taken the opportunity to talk to any of them about birdwatching?
Only with the senior Bahraini ruling family, as I was trying to get them to protect some of the environment there. It's an uphill battle because generally in the Middle East they're not terribly environment-conscious. In Saudi Arabia, for example, so much of the habitat has been lost and you'd be lucky to see Dark Chanting Goshawk. And they've hunted so much wildlife to extinction – Houbara Bustard, which used to be all over the Arabian Peninsula, are very hard to find now. But the Emirates are getting better, they have done preservation exercises, but generally the Gulf ruling families like to hunt these things rather than watch them in places like Morocco, Pakistan and Iran.
When you were shot six times in Saudi Arabia in 2004 that clearly changed your life dramatically. You have managed to visit many great birding locations since then. Can you tell me about some of your more challenging expeditions in the last ten years or so?
Top of the tree would probably have to be the two trips to Papua New Guinea I made for a BBC documentary last year. Access-wise it was tough-going with a wheelchair, but much of the time in the lowlands we were travelling along the Sepik River. There were hundreds of Rufous Night Herons and Whistling Kites and the occasional Rainbow Bee-eater and Sulphur-crested Cockatoo – but otherwise disappointing. The Papua New Guinea Highlands, though, were superb – and not just for birds of paradise. We had a great local bird guide who knew his fruit-doves from his pigeons and we had a wonderful time camping in a grass hut up at 10,000 feet.
I've done two trips to Svalbard (the last piece of inhabited dry land between northern Norway and the North Polar ice cap), again for the BBC. One was in March when there weren't many birds around, just Snow Bunting and Rock Ptarmigan. But when we came in May it was brilliant, the frozen lakes were just thawing so the Barnacle and Pink-footed Geese were flying in, along with Purple Sandpiper and Red-throated Diver. Clearly visible just offshore were mixed rafts of King and Common Eider as well as Brünnich's Guillemot. To get around Svalbard I had to drive a snowmobile, and we had an armed guard with us at all times because of Polar Bears, which is compulsory by law.
In 2010 we went to Borneo as a family and I spent a cracking day cycling slowly down Mount Kinabalu from 8,000 feet up, using my trike adaptation, together with a local bird guide. I saw some wonderful endemics there.
Given what happened in 2004, do you ever fear for your life when you are working these days?
No, although we did visit the Saudi–Yemen border in late 2016 and spent time with a family that had suffered a rocket attack the day before.
Some bird reserves appear to be well-provisioned for people with reduced mobility. What more should be done in such locations to improve this further?
No turnstiles, please! These are a nightmare for anyone in a wheelchair. Also it would be really helpful if the doors to bird hides – and toilets – could have a pulling bar on the inside so we can pull it shut.
If we could pick somewhere in the Middle East you've never been, where would you go?
If it was peaceful and safe, Yemen, though I have been there before. Again, if it was safe, parts of Turkey, though there is one place that is safe, Mazandaran Province in Iran, and eastern Iran to see Pleske's Ground Jay, which is such a star bird.
Where's the best place in the world you've been to for birding?
Malaysia and Thailand have got to be high on the list. In Malaysia last year I went to Fraser's Hill, which was superb, though the visibility really isn't that good there, and in Thailand Khao Yai, which is a national park about two hours north of Bangkok. I also went to Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park, where you can see White-bellied Sea Eagle, plus Black-capped and Collared Kingfishers.
You've got both jungle and sea there.
A place you wouldn't go back to again for birding?
I found New Zealand disappointing. It's quite hard work for such a big land mass. There are some lovely native species such as Tui, Kokako and Morepork, but so many of the birds are just boring imports from Britain. One great area is the Otago Peninsula east of Dunedin, which looks exactly like the coast of Devon, but the Albatross Observatory is great, with huge birds just flying in from the Pacific and landing – it's like being on an aircraft carrier. A little bit further on you've got Yellow-eyed Penguin, which to date is the only penguin I've seen in the wild.
The best and worst places you've been to as a traveller rather than a birder?
As a journalist I found Saudi Arabia fascinating, though it is pretty hard work. Once the people get to know you they're very hospitable, but the authorities can be very suspicious and quite unfriendly. Getting into the country itself can be quite difficult – there's no real culture of the authorities welcoming you in. It is starting to change very slowly, but the pervasive culture and belief is that you're not allowed to take photos or film – though there's no actual law that I'm aware of. I remember a couple of Japanese passengers from a cruise ship in Jeddah took a photo of a statue and were arrested, and I was arrested by the religious police for filming the melon market.
Yemen is right now in the middle of a civil war which hopefully will come to an end soon. There are kidnappings and everyone's got guns, but they're very friendly and not malevolent towards foreigners at all, quite the opposite, but you've got to keep your wits about you.
I skied in Lebanon during the tail end of the civil war with guys with M16s patrolling the ski queue, which was fun!
Going back to birds, do you have a particular bird family that you enjoy watching more than any other?
Sunbirds – they're so beautiful and colourful to look at and you've got them all the way from East Africa to Southeast Asia. The first one I saw was Purple Sunbird in Fujairah, which was within a month of resuming birdwatching – and seeing this glossy, iridescent purplish bird, then seeing the female and thinking it must be a different bird! Or Nile Valley Sunbird in southwest Saudi Arabia – which is almost a miniature bird of paradise.
(Continues…)
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Table of Contents
Preface vii
Acknowledgements viii
List of abbreviations ix
The interviews
Frank Gardner 1
Ann and Tim Cleeves 12
Roy Dennis 23
Kevin Parr 35
Tony Marr 46
Tim Appleton 61
Tim Birkhead 69
Dawn Balmer 82
Jon Hornbuckle 93
Tony Juniper 106
Richard Porter 120
Bryan Bland 134
Carol and Tim Inskipp 146
Barbara Young 160
Bill Oddie 176
Last thoughts 191
Selected bibliography 197
Index 202