Bistros, Brasseries, and Wine Bars of Paris: Everyday Recipes from the Real Parisby Daniel Young, Daniel Young (Photographer)
You can spend years in Paris and never hear the same answer twice to this cookbook's underlying question: what is the difference between a bistro, a brasserie, and a wine bar? In his third cookbook, acclaimed author and expert on all things French Daniel Young explains the nuances between the three, as he takes home cooks on a vibrant, spirited tour of Paris's
You can spend years in Paris and never hear the same answer twice to this cookbook's underlying question: what is the difference between a bistro, a brasserie, and a wine bar? In his third cookbook, acclaimed author and expert on all things French Daniel Young explains the nuances between the three, as he takes home cooks on a vibrant, spirited tour of Paris's best eateries.
Daniel explains that, as true Parisians know; a bistro is a small, informal restaurant serving a few simple, hearty dishes, while a brasserie is a larger, cafe–restaurant providing continuous service and rough–and–ready food. In a wine bar, expect to find a large selection of wines by the glass and light bites to go with them.
Daniel also introduces home cooks to many of his favorite spots (some are famous, others are his own best–keep secrets) and presents classic recipes from each, including Salmon Terrine with Leeks and Pesto, Cream of Carrot Soup with Cumin, Pan–Grilled Rib Steak with Béarnaise Sauce, and Warm Almond Cake with Caramel Cream. Bistros, brasseries, and wine bars, define what it means to be out and eat out in Paris, to dine simply and very well. Theirs is the food that nourishes and sustains the Paris of Parisians – the real and everyday Paris – with local flavor, style, sophistication, personality, and attitude.
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The Bistros, Brasseries, and Wine Bars of ParisEveryday Recipes from the Real Paris
By Daniel Young
HarperCollins Publishers, Inc.Copyright © 2006 Daniel Young
All right reserved.
Le Beurre Noisette
Celery Root PureePuree de Celeri-rave
Makes 3 to 6 side-dish servings
Served at Le Beurre Noisette as an accompaniment to the bistro's rosemary veal roast (page 111), this celery root puree complements any number of meat, poultry, and fish dishes. For optimum creaminess, Thierry Blanqui uses rice as the starch in his puree, not potatoes, the dish's customary thickening agent. The water contained in the potatoes can dilute the puree's texture as well as its mild taste. The only risk in preparing it Blanqui's way is that the silky smooth puree becomes a distraction. You just can't keep your fork away from it. A quantity that should feed up to six people easily gets polished off by three.
1 celery root (about 1 1/2 pounds), peeled, trimmed, and cut into 1-inch cubes
1 quart whole milk
Coarse sea salt
2 tablespoons long-grain white rice
3/4 cup heavy cream
Place the celery root in a saucepan, cover with the milk, season with a pinch of salt, and heat over medium-high heat to a boil. Add the rice, lower the heat to low, partially cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until very soft, 40 to 45 minutes.
Drain the celery and rice, reserving the liquid (which, once cooled, can be frozen and later served as a soup), transfer to a blender or food processor and puree, scraping down the sides as necessary, until smooth.
Place the cream in a saucepan over medium heat and heat just to a boil, stirring with a wooden spoon to keep it from boiling over. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the cream is slightly reduced and thickened, about 3 minutes. Add the pureed celery root and rice and cook, stirring constantly, until all the moisture has been absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, season with salt, whip with a whisk to fluff the puree, and serve.
Le Bistrot Des Capucins
House-Salted Cod Wrapped in Ham
Morue en Jambon
Frustrated by the bother and uncertainty of soaking, desalting, and rehydrating dried salt cod in several changes of water over many hours, chefs like Gerard Fouche have taken to salting their own fresh cod. It allows them to have better control over the quality of the fish and the quantity of the salt. Overnight salting gives fresh cod a firmer texture that holds together better when wrapped with ham. Fouche suggests serving the ham-wrapped house-salted cod fillets over eggs piperade (page 139).
4 skinless codfish fillets, 6 to 7 ounces each
2 tablespoons coarse sea salt
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon piment d'Espelette or ancho powder or other medium-hot chili powder
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 thin slices country ham
The day before you plan to serve: Season the cod fillets on both sides with salt and piment d'Espelette. Place a couple of small plates upside down over a serving plate or tray, lay the fillets over the plates (this will allow the liquid to drain off), cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the salted cod fillets and cook just until lightly golden, about 1 minute on each side. Drain on paper towels.
Working with one slice at a time, spread out the ham, lay a cod fillet over the ham, and roll it, tucking the end of the ham under itself to hold it in place, and transfer to a baking pan. Repeat with the remaining fillets. Place in the oven and bake until just cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillets. Serve atop eggs piperade, potatoes, or rice.
Excerpted from The Bistros, Brasseries, and Wine Bars of Paris by Daniel Young Copyright © 2006 by Daniel Young. Excerpted by permission.
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Meet the Author
Daniel Young is a food critic by trade and a collector of kitchen, dining room, and café secrets in practice. He is the author of Made in Marseille, The Rough Guide to New York City Restaurants, and The Paris Café Cookbook and has written about French food and culture for many publications, including Gourmet, Bon Appétit, Condé Nast Traveler, the New York Times, and others. Formerly the restaurant critic for the New York Daily News, he now lives in Paris, London, and his hometown, New York.
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