Table of Contents
1 Experience Seoul 7
19 Ultimate Experiences 8
What's Where 16
Seoul Today 18
What to Eat and Drink in Seoul 20
What to Buy in Seoul 22
Best Historical Sights 24
History You Can See 26
Korean Culture Primer 27
What to Watch, Read, and Listen to 29
2 Travel Swart 31
Know Before You Go 32
Getting Here and Around 34
Essentials 39
Best Tours 48
Great Itineraries 50
Helpful Phrases in Korean 54
On the Calendar 56
Contacts 58
3 Jongno-Gu 59
Neighborhood Snapshot 60
Gwanghwamun and Around 62
Insa-dong, Ikseon-dong, and Bukchon Hanok Village 74
Hyehwa-dong 86
4 Jung-Gu 93
Neighborhood Snapshot 94
Myeongdong 96
City Hall 101
Euljiro 104
Seoul Station 105
Namdaemun and Around 106
5 Dongdaemun 111
Neighborhood Snapshot 112
6 Hongdae 125
Neighborhood Snapshot 126
7 Yeouido 141
Neighborhood Snapshot 142
8 Itaewon and Yongsan-Gu 157
Neighborhood Snapshot 158
9 Gangnam 173
Neighborhood Snapshot 174
10 Jamsil and Eastern Seoul 191
Neighborhood Snapshot 192
11 Side Trips from Seoul 207
Welcome to Side Trips From Seoul 208
Planning 211
Paju 213
Panmunjeom and the DMZ 216
Suwon 217
Yongin 219
Nami Island 221
Incheon 223
Ganghwa Island 232
12 Busan 235
Welcome to Busan 236
Planning 238
Centum City 242
Haeundae 246
Gwangalli 251
Nam-gu 254
Seomyean 257
Nampo-dong and Vicinity 259
Songjeong 261
Elsewhere in Busan 263
13 Side Trips from Busan 267
Welcome to Side Trips From Busan 268
Planning 271
Daegu 272
Gyeongju 277
Tongyeong 281
Geoje Island 286
Yeongnam Alps 289
14 Jeju-Do 293
Welcome to Jeju-do 294
Planning 297
Jeju-si 300
Hallasan National Park 305
Eastern Jeju 307
Northwestern Jeju 314
Seogwipo-si 316
Southwestern Jeju and the Southern Islands 319
Index 322
About Our Writers 335
Maps
Gwanghwamun and Around 64-65
Insa-dong, Ikseon-dong, and Bukchon Hanok Village 78-79
Hyehwa-dong 88
Jung-gu 98-99
Dongdaemun 116-117
Hongdae 130-131
Yeouido 146-147
Itaewon and Yongsan-gu 162-163
Gangnam 178-179
Jamsil and Eastern Seoul 196-197
Incheon and Ganghwa Island 226-227
Centum City, Gwangalli, Nam-gu, Seomyeon, Nampo-dong and Vicinity, Songjeong, and Elsewhere in Busan 244-245
Haeundae 248
Daegu 274
Gyeongju 279
Tongyeong 284
Jeju Island 306
Seoul Metro 336