Table of Contents
CHAPTER 1 : THE SHOE DESIGN PROCESS.............................................1
Two types of design briefs
Get started drawing shoes
CHAPTER 2 : FOOTWEAR SPECIFICATION DRAWINGS........................17
How to make a factory ready specification drawing
What to include in a specification
CHAPTER 3 : MAKING FOOTWEAR PATTERNS.....................................25
Shoe designer vs. pattern maker
The pattern maker’s challenge
CHAPTER 4 : SHOE SPECIFICATION DOCUMENTS..............................39
Parts of a shoe spec
How to detail a spec sheet
CHAPTER 5 : OUTSOLE TOOLING DESIGN ..........................................45
Footwear outsole types
Outsole blue prints and tooling development
CHAPTER 6 : FOOTWEAR DEVELOPMENT PROCESS............................61
Footwear sample making
Development samples phases
CHAPTER 7 : FOOTWEAR PRE-PRODUCTION.......................................65
Production size grade
Production cutting equipment
CHAPTER 8 : SHOE MATERIAL PREPARATION......................................69
Material cutting
Logo printing and preparations
CHAPTER 9 : UPPER STITCHING OPERATIONS....................................79
The stitching room
Stitching order of operations
CHAPTER 10 : OUTSOLE RUBBER PRESSING........................................89
Mixing rubber materials
Rubber molds and pressing
CHAPTER 11 : EVA MIDSOLE FORMING..............................................109
What is EVA made of?
EVA pressing operations
CHAPTER 12 : THE SHOE ASSEMBLY LINE.........................................115
Cold cement shoe construction
Vulcanized shoe construction
CHAPTER 13 : THE SHOE LAST...........................................................141
Shoe last shapes
How lasts are made
CHAPTER 14 : FOOTWEAR COSTING..................................................155
Where does the money go?
Reading a factory cost sheet
CHAPTER 15 : LOGO DESIGN FOR SHOES..........................................161
What is the right logo for your shoe?
Shoe logo constructions
CHAPTER 16 :LEATHER FOR SHOES...................................................165
Leather basics
Common leather for shoes
CHAPTER 17 : TEXTILES FOR SHOES..................................................173
Fabric weaves
Backing and surface treatments
CHAPTER 18 : SYNTHETICS FOR SHOES.............................................177
Synthetic types
Application on shoes
CHAPTER 19 : FOAM FOR SHOES.......................................................181
Foam types, open vs closed
Foam compounds, densities and use in shoes
CHAPTER 20 : KNOW YOUR FOOTBEDS..............................................185
Footbed parts
Material types for shoes
CHAPTER 21 : FOOTWEAR MATERIAL SUPPLIERS..............................187
Working with material suppliers
List of top shoe material suppliers
CHAPTER 22 : SHOE DESIGNERS TOOLS............................................191
The PantoneTM color system
Common tools of the trade
CHAPTER 23 : JOBS IN THE SHOE TRADE..........................................195
Getting started in the trades
There is a job for you
CHAPTER 24 : QUALITY CONTROL......................................................197
How to grade shoe quality?
Standard shoe inspection procedure
CHAPTER 25 : LIFE AT A SHOE FACTORY............................................203
Look inside a real factory
Working conditions
