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SECTION H: I-84 at Bridge of the Gods to US 12 near White Pass
The Route
This section of the PCT begins by exploring hilly hummocks and small lakes that were deposited by a huge landslide hundreds of years ago. This is the same landslide that temporarily dammed the Columbia River, creating the original legendary Bridge of the Gods, a natural bridge. It then climbs a short series of ridges offering scenic vistas. Between these ridges, descend into forests of mossy creeks and occasional old-growth giants.
Cross the Columbia River via the Bridge of the Gods (2,146.9–219'), which is toll-free for pedestrians, and enter Washington. From the west end of the Bridge of the Gods toll road (2,147.2–192'), head south on WA 14 past an oversize pond, and just 80 yards beyond it reach the PCT trailhead (2,147.4–155'). You’ll find limited parking nearby, plus access for equestrians. The “trail” at first is along an old power line road that parallels WA 14, just below you. The roadbed is rather overgrown, and in some places the trail sticks to the road’s outer edge, which can leave the trail somewhat exposed, so caution is highly advised here.
WATER ACCESS: The short clifftop stretch soon gives way to safer slopes, and presently you reach a spring, which is your first source of reliable water (2,148.1–156').
In 0.2 mile cross a gated, paved road, which climbs from WA 14 to private Wauna Lake. Leaving civilization, you first climb to a ridge (2,148.7–372') from where Tamanous Trail 27 starts southwest, meandering 0.6 mile to a large parking area opposite the Bonneville Lock and Dam. Ahead, the forested, often fern-bordered PCT takes a convoluted, rolling route across a giant landslide.
Geology: Large and small landslides have descended from both walls of the Columbia River Gorge. This is due in part to the steepness of the gorge’s walls but is also a result of their composition: the volcanic flows and associated volcanic sediments composing the walls belong to two distinct time periods. The lower layers are about 25 million years old, while the upper ones are about 15 million years old. The surface of the lower layers thus had about 10 million years to deeply weather to clay in this area’s warm, humid, preglacial climate before the clay was buried under a sea of younger deposits. This clay layer is the structurally weak element that causes overlying layers to give way, as in the landslides from Table Mountain and the Red Bluffs. The landslides can temporarily dam the Columbia River, and such temporary dams perhaps provided a basis for the American Indian legend about Bridge of the Gods.
After about an hour of meandering through recent timber harvests in various stages of regeneration (the PCT is on easements through private land here), you emerge from forest cover at a utility road (2,150.5–420'), which serves three sets of Bonneville Dam power lines.
Trail Info: Across this major road, the PCT follows an abandoned road down toward Gillette Lake (2,150.8–311'). This lake was, until recently, on private land, but the Pacific Crest Trail Association (PCTA) and the U.S. Forest Service joined forces to acquire it in 2016, in the interest of protecting it in a more natural state for the future. Swimmers will find the water relatively warm.
Now the trail reenters forest, in a couple of minutes passes the lake’s seasonal inlet creek, and then climbs 0.25 mile to a mowed pipeline corridor. From the pipeline corridor you follow an old road 70 yards west before leaving it. Eastbound trekkers could be led astray if they miss the PCT tread starting from the east side of the pipeline corridor.
WATER ACCESS: On trail tread, westbound trekkers make an easy climb to a lily-pad pond before momentarily dropping to a horse bridge across Greenleaf Creek (2,151.7–482'). This is your last totally reliable, on-trail water source until Rock Creek, 14.4 miles farther. Fortunately, some near-trail water sources are available.
Switchback upward from the creek and get your only views of sprawling Bonneville Dam as you make a short trek southwest. Then angle northwest to a ravine with a seasonal creeklet, ramble west to a second creeklet, and then climb north along a third before switchbacking up to a low ridgecrest (2,153.6–1,107'). Here you turn north and parallel an abandoned road up Cedar Creek canyon.
After a crest walk north, you cross the road (2,154.1–1,411') and then recross it in less than 0.2 mile. Shortly, the climb north takes you to a creeklet (2,154.7–1,707'), just beyond which you meet a junction with Heartbreak Ridge Trail, which climbs very steeply up a minor ridge to Table Mountain. On a moderate grade, you climb northwest then southwest up to a larger ridge (2,155.2–2,015'), where you meet a junction with West Table Mountain Trail.
Now you exchange the Cedar Creek drainage for the larger Hamilton Creek drainage. The trail drops a bit, quickly emerges from forest cover, and then drops some more to avoid steep slopes on the west side of towering Table Mountain. Enjoy the panoramic views as you tackle the 1,500 feet of climbing ahead. Try not to obsess about every ounce in your pack just now. The earlier in the morning you make this protracted climb out of the Columbia River Gorge, the better.
On a shady bench due west of Table Mountain, the PCT latches onto an abandoned roadbed that, fortunately, is alder-shaded along its first 0.5 mile. You’ll need the shade, for the gradient averages a stiff 17%. Just before the gradient abates, you get a view. Stop and listen for music to your ears—a never-failing creek.
Onward, in about 140 yards, the trail reenters forest cover and bends west. Soon you leave the old roadbed, pass under a buzzing power line, travel along a short stretch of bear grass turf, and then ramble over to a nearby road (2,157.2–2,761'). You climb briefly north and then head east on a rather steep, very rocky tread across a rubbly open slope that offers fine views south down Hamilton Creek canyon. Mount Hood, poking over the shoulder of multilayered Table Mountain, also comes into view. With a final burst of effort, you reach a ridge above a power line saddle....
