Rwanda - Culture Smart!: The Essential Guide to Customs & Culture
168
Rwanda - Culture Smart!: The Essential Guide to Customs & Culture
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Product Details
| ISBN-13: | 9781857338799 |
|---|---|
| Publisher: | Kuperard |
| Publication date: | 01/02/2019 |
| Series: | Culture Smart! , #100 |
| Pages: | 168 |
| Product dimensions: | 4.30(w) x 6.60(h) x 0.60(d) |
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CHAPTER 1
LAND & PEOPLE
GEOGRAPHY
Rwanda is located in Central-Eastern Africa, approximately sixty miles south of the Equator. It is landlocked and bordered by the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), Burundi, Tanzania, and Uganda. Though Rwanda's population is over twelve million, it is one of the smallest countries on the continent. It is also the most densely populated country in Africa. According to the World Bank, Rwanda has a population density of 483 persons per square kilometer (1,251 per square mile).
Rwanda's topography is influenced by its presence on the Albertine Rift and the volcanic Virunga mountain range along the country's northwestern border. A drive from Gisenyi in the northwest to Rusumo in the southeast reveals that the land gradually flattens from steep mountains to flatter, dryer savannah, with an abundance of papyrus swamps and marshes along the course of the Nyabarongo River. This river, itself the source of the Nile, begins in the northwest and snakes its way southeast, where it becomes the Kagera. The Kagera then forms Rwanda's eastern border as it finds its way back north and toward Uganda, where it empties into Lake Victoria. Historically, Rwanda has been protected by the natural barriers of Lake Kivu in the west, the Virunga Mountains in the northwest, and the Kagera River to the southeast and east. It is largely because of this natural isolation that Rwanda remained a well-guarded political entity for centuries.
Rwanda's nickname is "The Land of a Thousand Hills," or Igihugu cy'Imisozi Igihumbi in Kinyarwanda. To traverse Rwanda is to wind around and over endless hills that ripple the countryside. This hilliness has earned Rwanda the second moniker of "The Switzerland of Africa." Though the country is tiny by African standards, a drive from Kigali to the eastern or western border can take three hours. While the arterials are paved and of good quality, winding roads and strict speed limits make for slower going.
Because Rwanda's population depends heavily on farming, the countryside is a tapestry of geometric plots and terraced hills. A number of national parks offer the visitor variety from the farmland, though, and it is in these parks that you may enjoy a more virgin display of Rwanda's natural beauty. In the north, the Volcanoes National Park offers not only dense, mountainous jungle, but some of the only remaining mountain gorillas in the world. In the southwest, the Nyungwe National Forest offers thick jungle, treks, canopy walks, and a chance to view the chimpanzee. In the east, the vast Akagera National Park plays host to Africa's well-known savannah animals, including hippopotamus, elephant, giraffe, Cape buffalo, leopard, gazelles, elands, zebra, baboons, colobus monkeys, and a dazzling plethora of birds. Thanks to the concerted efforts of Rwandan conservationists, lions were reintroduced in 2015, and rhinoceros in 2017. Rwanda is now proud to boast all of Africa's "Big Five" mammals: elephant, leopard, Cape buffalo, lion, and rhinoceros.
CLIMATE
Rwanda's climate is relatively mild in comparison to its neighbors'. According to the CIA World Factbook, the climate is "temperate." What this means in practice is that temperatures at midday can be quite hot, while things cool off quite a bit in the evening. In the west and mountainous north, the nighttime chill can call for much warmer layers of clothing when the sun goes down. The Bugesera region just south of Kigali, and the flatter, lower regions in the east can be quite hot and dry. More than the heat, however, the dust during the two dry seasons can be quite bothersome, except in the west. In particular, the ruddy dust tends to coat everything in a light reddish-pinkish layer of grime, especially if you find yourself wandering off the road. You can expect a cleaner atmosphere during the two rainy seasons, from February to April, and then from November to January. During the rainy seasons the weather is warm to hot, with several downpours during the day lasting about thirty minutes or so.
CITIES AND TOWNS
Kigali
If you are flying in to Rwanda's Grégoire Kayibanda airport, Kigali will be your arrival point. The city is made up of a number of distinct neighborhoods and contains a population of more than one million. Frequently the object of praise for its order and cleanliness, Kigali is dynamic, vibrant, and offers anything the visitor may require. On the one hand, it teems with authentically Rwandan shops, neighborhoods, cafés, and markets. Just stroll down the two parallel streets in the Nyamirambo neighborhood, for example, and you will see dozens of shops that offer clothing, tailoring, electronics, meat, sporting goods, office supplies, hairdressing, groceries, and household goods. Shopping areas like this abound, with hand-painted frescoes and signs beckoning the buyer in. For a more authentic shopping experience for anything from fresh produce to textiles to crafts to tools, you will not only find what you need at the teeming Kimironko Market in the city's northeast, but you will also find a much better price than in town.
On the other hand, Kigali has an ever-growing number of Western-style shopping centers. Several of these are located downtown, with the Union Trade Center (UTC) being the most central. Inside, the Kenyan-owned Nakumatt grocery store offers everything from fresh meat to electronics. The newly opened Kigali Heights complex in Kimihurura sports several trendy restaurants, bars, clothing stores, and bookshops. For an awe-inspiring sample of modern architecture and one of the city's most notable architectural landmarks, make sure to visit the recently inaugurated Kigali Convention Center, prominently located along the KN5 road leading from the airport. Designed to replicate the Nyanza king's palace of pre-colonial Rwanda, the Convention Center hosts state-of-the-art meeting centers, as well as the Radisson Blu Hotel.
Beyond shopping, Kigali offers a wide range of nightlife options, including several hip nightclubs popular with Rwandans and Westerners. The city regularly hosts music and arts festivals of local, regional, and international performers. For the sports enthusiast, two large stadiums — Amahoro Stadium in Remera, and Nyamirambo Stadium at the southern end of Nyamirambo — offer local and international soccer matches. Kigali also boasts a wide variety of accommodation choices, ranging from the moderately priced guest houses to the upscale offerings of the likes of the Hôtel des Mille Collines (of Hotel Rwanda fame), Serena, and the Marriott, to name only three.
Beyond offering amenities of interest to tourists, Kigali is the seat of the Rwandan government, and also houses international embassies, including the American Embassy and the British High Commission. A drive around the Kacyiru neighborhood will take you past many countries' embassies as well as many of Rwanda's ministries, including the Rwandan Parliament. Seated atop a manicured lawn, the Parliament building's western façade bears witness to the civil war and genocide that racked the country in 1994. Still riddled with bullet and rocket holes left in place as a reminder of Rwanda's past, the building stands as a testament not only to the country's bloody history, but also to its promising present and future.
Other Towns
Though most visitors will spend much of their time in Kigali, Rwanda contains a number of towns that either serve as stopping points for other areas of interest, or are worth visiting in their own right. Before exploring Rwanda, though, keep in mind that the Rwandan government renamed a number of cities in 2006 in an attempt to erase negative associations with their roles in the 1994 genocide. Among Rwandans, you may hear both names used and whether someone uses the old or the new name usually depends upon their age. The pre-2006 name is not taboo or painful, however; rather, you should keep both in mind and opt first for the post-2006 name. Below, the pre-2006 names appear in parentheses.
Musanze (Ruhengeri): This attractive town to the north of Kigali features several first stops on your way to gorilla trekking. Unless you stay in one of the more luxurious lodges closer to the Virunga Mountains, you are likely to stay in one of the hotels here, or stop for a bite on your way up. Musanze is also home to Hotel Muhabura, where Diane Fossey stayed in Room 12 during her famous research of the mountain gorilla. You can see her room. On the way from Kigali to Musanze, you can also stop to visit the Sina Gérard factory in Nyaringarama, where the fiery Akabanga pili-pili sauce is made, along with a bottled version of urwagwa, Rwanda's banana beer.
Gisenyi: This beautiful resort town is nestled on the shores of Lake Kivu in the west, and it is the main port of entry into the DRC. The city boasts a number of good-quality hotels (some with a private beach) that can be a useful first stop for gorilla or volcano trekkers heading into the DRC.
Huye (Butare): Located about three hours to the southwest of Kigali, Huye is home to Rwanda's National University, whose library offers valuable books on Rwandan culture, linguistics, and history. Huye is also home to the National Museum of Rwanda. This ethnological museum is dedicated to pre-genocide and pre-colonial Rwanda, and includes a life-size mock-up of the king's traditional home. The city is also not far from Nyanza (to its north), the former seat of the Rwandan monarchy and home of the King's Palace Museum. Should you wish to visit one of the most horrific memorials of the 1994 genocide, Huye can be a crossroads on your way to Murambi Technical School, where hundreds of mummified bodies of victims massacred in 1994 lie on display in twenty-four empty classrooms of the unfinished school.
THE PEOPLE
Rwanda is a diverse society — not so much in ethnic or racial categories, but rather in people's personal histories, their relationships and attitudes toward other groups of Rwandans, and their relationship to Rwanda's official languages. Because Rwanda is diverse, it is challenging to speak about "Rwandans" in broad strokes. What one Rwandan finds true, another may not; and everyone's story is different. Many Rwandans may even provide contradictory interpretations about etiquette. So it is a good idea to keep your eyes and ears open, observe how people interact and behave, and imitate what seems appropriate. As the Rwandan proverb goes, Ugiye iburyasazi, azirya mbisi, "When you go to where there are flies, eat them raw." In other words, when in Rome, do as the Romans do — but even more so.
In Rwanda there are many distinctions between people — some immediately evident, some more ingrained in Rwandans' consciousness. Probably the most obvious is that between rural and urban, followed by socioeconomic differences. Urban and better-off Rwandans are more likely to speak English or French instead of just Kinyarwanda, and they are more likely to have completed secondary, if not higher, education. Urban dwellers are also likely to have more experience of dealing with foreigners and Western culture in general. This means that many traditional ways of interacting may be giving way to Western forms of behavior, especially among the young. In the provinces, however, your presence as an outsider or umuzungu will be noticed more, sometimes vocally, as people — especially children — openly call out to you. Among rural Rwandans, Kinyarwanda and French are more likely to be spoken, with smatterings of English or Swahili. There is more poverty in the provinces, and rural lifestyles tend to be dictated by farming.
Further diversity has resulted from the waves of migrations and repatriations over the past sixty years. In 1959, fearing an uprising by the Hutu majority (see "History," below), thousands of Tutsis fled into Uganda. There, a new generation of Rwandans was born and raised, speaking English, Swahili, and Luganda, with Kinyarwanda being spoken mostly in the family. When these "old caseload" refugees returned to Rwanda following the 1994 genocide, many settled in Kigali and other cities, where they formed a formidable English-speaking population. While the Ugandan-raised Rwandans speak fluent Kinyarwanda, many Rwandans claim that they can tell just by the person's accent where they grew up.
Beyond linguistic differences, a psychological distance exists between Rwandans who were in Rwanda during the genocide and those who were in the diaspora. Both survivors and returnees have felt difficulty relating to each other and truly understanding each other's backgrounds — Rwandans who were in the country during the genocide directly experienced and witnessed unspeakable horrors that those abroad only experienced secondhand or through reports. Added to this mix are the "new caseload" returnees, the roughly two million Rwandans — mostly Hutu — who fled Rwanda in July 1994, into Zaire (now the Democratic Republic of Congo), in fear of the advancing Rwandan Patriotic Army. While many of these refugees were ordinary citizens, many perpetrators of the genocide fled as well, often blending in with innocent Rwandans. Over the years, many of these Rwandans have returned to reintegrate into Rwandan society, thereby constituting yet another layer of diverse personal — and historically burdensome — experiences among Rwandans. While it is patently false that all Hutus were implicated in the genocide, the association remains in the minds of some and can cast a shadow over relations.
The Charged Question of "Ethnicity"
This brings us to the inevitable topic of "ethnicity" in Rwanda. Anyone even vaguely familiar with Rwandan history — especially twentieth-century Rwandan history — will have encountered the terms "Hutu," "Tutsi," and, to a lesser extent, "Twa." To a Westerner, these concepts can prove confusing, as exemplified in the films Sometimes in April, when a journalist asks, "These rebels [the RPF], are they Tutu or Hutsi?" and in Hotel Rwanda, when an American journalist remarks of two women, one Hutu and one Tutsi, "They could be twins." For many Westerners unfamiliar with Rwandan society, "Hutu" and "Tutsi" have racial or ethnic overtones; however, the reality is a much more complex story of socioeconomic castes and former colonizers' manipulating concepts of racial identity.
The terms "Hutu," "Tutsi," and "Twa" are problematic at best, devastating at worst. In the minds of Rwandans, these divisions have existed for centuries, but primarily as socioeconomic distinctions that were then racialized by the Belgian colonizers. Only since the 1994 genocide have they been so categorically challenged by the Rwandan government and Rwandan society. Today, Rwanda's efforts to obliterate "ethnic" divisionism can be seen in the nationwide slogan, Ndi umunyarwanda, "I am Rwandan." The idea is that, above all, Rwandans are not Tutsi, Hutu, or Twa; they are Rwandan. From a historical standpoint, an attempt to efface these divisions from people's minds is understandable, given that so much suffering has occurred over the years in the name of these labels.
Prior to 1994, Rwandans were taught through racist propaganda that the differences between Tutsi, Hutu, and Twa were primarily ethnic: that the Twa — or "Pygmies" (now considered a derogatory term) — were the indigenous inhabitants of Rwanda's region; that the Hutu were of Bantu origin and migrated into the area long before the Tutsi; and that the Tutsi were of Nilotic origin, migrating south from Ethiopia in the fourteenth century. Along with these "origin myths" came a myriad racial stereotypes claiming that each group held physical characteristics making them physically distinct from each other. As any Rwandan will tell you, however, this notion of "ethnicity" runs counter to other African countries' notions of ethnicity, which are often connected to differences in language, culture, and religion. Since the inception of the Rwandan kingdom in the eleventh century, Rwandans (the Abanyarwanda) have spoken one language, Kinyarwanda, and have shared a belief in Imana, the benevolent deity. They have also shared many cultural practices. Therefore, are these really "ethnic" groups? Or are they purely social constructs? Or psychological constructs?
Prior to the arrival of the Belgian colonizers, the understanding of Hutu–Tutsi–Twa was mainly socioeconomic: a Tutsi was someone who owned at least ten cows, that is, a pastoralist; whereas a Hutu was an agriculturalist; and a Twa would primarily be concerned with pottery and hunting–gathering. Because cows have traditionally been associated with wealth and status, Tutsis, therefore, largely became associated with wealth and high status. Still, these "castes" were not set in stone; a Hutu could become Tutsi, and a Tutsi could become Hutu. During the Rwandan monarchies from the eleventh to the mid-twentieth centuries, the kings (abami) were Tutsi; and under Belgian colonial rule, from 1919 to 1962, the Tutsis were elevated to the status of the elite.
(Continues…)
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Table of Contents
Map of Rwanda,
Introduction,
Key Facts,
Chapter 1: LAND AND PEOPLE,
Chapter 2: VALUES AND ATTITUDES,
Chapter 3: CUSTOMS AND TRADITIONS,
Chapter 4: MAKING FRIENDS,
Chapter 5: THE RWANDANS AT HOME,
Chapter 6: TIME OUT,
Chapter 7: TRAVEL, HEALTH, AND SAFETY,
Chapter 8: BUSINESS BRIEFING,
Chapter 9: COMMUNICATING,
Further Reading,
Sources,
Acknowledgments,