You and Your Sewing Machine: A Sewist's Guide to Troubleshooting, Maintenance, Tips & Techniques

You and Your Sewing Machine: A Sewist's Guide to Troubleshooting, Maintenance, Tips & Techniques

by Bernie Tobisch


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Product Details

ISBN-13: 9781617455810
Publisher: C & T Publishing
Publication date: 08/07/2018
Series: A Field Guide Series
Pages: 144
Sales rank: 169,539
Product dimensions: 8.00(w) x 10.04(h) x 0.44(d)

About the Author

Bernie Tobisch started his career as a sewing machine technician in the mid 1970s and became a dealer in 1980. He now lives in Vancouver, Canada, with his wife Shelley and continues to service machines.

Table of Contents

Introduction How to use this book 6

Getting To Know Your Sewing Machine 8

Machine Features 9

How a Stitch Is Formed 10

Sewing Systems and Hook Types 11

Mechanical versus Electronic versus Computerized 12

Sewing Machine Motors AC motors, DC motors 15

Needle Plates 17

Knee Lifters (Free-Hand Systems) 19

Foot Controls Rheostat, Electronic 20

Bobbins Styles of bobbin cases, Bobbin sensors 21

Feed Dogs Types of feed dogs Box feed versus elliptical feed Dropping the feed dogs 22

Questions to Ask When Buying a New Sewing Machine Questions Testing the machine Buying online versus from a dealer 25

Maintaining Your Good Relationship 28

Using the Right Foot 29

Embroidery or Appliqué Foot When to use it, When not to use it 30

Walking Foot Closed sole, Open sole Stitch-in-the-ditch or edge-stitching sole Walking foot versus built-in dual-feed system Servicing a walking foot 31

Edge-Stitch Foot 36

Patchwork or ¼" Foot Markings on the patchwork foot Lining up with the feed dogs Chain piecing with the patchwork foot 37

Free-Motion or Darning Foot Overcast foot Stitch regulator for free-motion stitching 40

Cleaning and Lubricating 43

The Lower Part of the Machine Removing the needle plate Taking out the bobbin case and hook Vacuum versus canned air The right way to clean Don't forget the feed dogs Bobbin sensors 44

The Upper Part of the Machine Left side door, Top cover 54

Lubrication Using the right oil Oiling the hook area Oiling the upper portion of the machine 57

Other Maintenance 63

Firmware Updates 63

Mechanical Updates Magnets and computerized sewing machines 63

Surge Protectors 63

A Few Other Things Going over heavy seams (climbing seams) Using spray baste and fusible stabilizers Turning the handwheel 64

Problems and how to fix them 66

Tension in the Relationship 67

Top Tension How the presser foot is involved Setting the top tension 68

Bottom (Bobbin) Tension Threading the tension spring Using the right bobbin 70

Tension Calibration and Adjustment Finding the default top tension Making and analyzing a sample Making adjustments What could go wrong? 73

Things That Might Affect Tension Situations that might require top tension adjustment Making top tension adjustments 77

It's Hardly Ever the Tension 79

Smoothing Burrs on the Hook 80

Thread 82

Damage to the Bobbin Case 82

Incorrect Threading Presser foot up Missing the take-up lever Skipping a thread guide Wrong size of thread stopper 85

Needle Plate Damage 88

Spool Pin Orientation Horizontal spool pin, Vertical spool pin Independent thread stand Parallel-wound versus cross-wound thread 89

Bobbins Loosely wound bobbins Overfilled bobbins That extra little piece of thread Machines with self-winding bobbins Damaged bobbins 91

Thread Lock 97

Needles, Threaders, and Automatic Thread Cutters 98

Needles 99

Anatomy of a Needle 99

Important Relationships Relationship l: Needle size and thread Forming stitches Needle sizes Size of the needle hole Relationship 2: Needle style and fabric Types of needles Longer-lasting needles 100

Choosing Needles by Quality or Price 105

When to Change Needles 106

Twin, Triple, and Hemstitch/ Wing Needles 108

Machine Needle Threaders How a needle threader works what could go wrong? 111

Automatic Thread Cutters 114

Troubleshooting Thread Cutters 114

Presser-Foot Pressure Adjustment 116

Location of Adjustment Electronic adjustment 117

When to Adjust Pressure Too much pressure Not enough pressure 119

Forward/Reverse Balance Adjustment 122

Where Is the Adjustment? 123

When to Adjust Buttonholes, Stretch stitches Decorative stitches, Alphabets Using balance to create a new stitch 124

Buttonholes 128

Buttonhole Systems Dial with buttonhole stages Using the correct buttonhole foot Counting stitches, Measured length 129

Troubleshooting Buttonholes Uneven beads Sensor foot not working properly Fabric not feeding when using button hole foot Fabric puckering 134

Making Great-Looking Buttonholes 136

Troubleshooting Guide 137

Index 142

About the Author 143

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