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Chapter One

SOUPS & STEWS: A PRIMER

ADVANTAGES OF SOUPS AND STEWS

• Add variety to the menu.

• Easy to make.

• Great for make-ahead meals. Most soups and stews improve when reheated; the exception is seafood.

• No-fuss meal-all in one pot.

• Easy serving and easy cleanup (one bowl).

• Satisfying and wholesome—soothes the appetite.

• Minimum special equipment needed.

• Economical (depending on ingredients).

• Little attention required while cooking.

• Flexible—ingredients can vary with availability and cook's preference.

• A fun way to entertain for a casual, informal party or a nutritious family meal.

• Can play a role in weight watching.

• Slow cooking builds flavor.

• Canned products such as tomatoes, broth, and beans can be used for convenience.

• Frozen vegetables can be used.

COOKING TERMS

BEAT: To mix vigorously with a spoon or mixer.

BÉCHAMEL: A white sauce made by stirring milk into a butter-flour roux.

BISQUE: A rich, thick soup usually consisting of seafood (sometimes poultry and vegetables) and cream.

BLANCH: To partially cook very briefly in boiling water.

BOUILLON: A broth made by cooking vegetables, meats, poultry, or fish in water. Available canned (concentrated) and in cubes (dehydrated).

BOUQUET CARNI: A bundle of herbs and spices in a metal tea ball, spice ball, or tied in a cheesecloth sack to flavor soups and sauces. Remove beforeserving.

CAYENNE: A hot, pungent powder made from tropical chiles, also called red pepper.

CELERIAC: The root of a special type of celery, also called celery root.

CHIFFONADE: To cut leafy herbs and vegetables into thin strips.

CHOP: To cut into small, irregular pieces.

CHOWDER: A thick, chunky seafood or vegetable soup, as in clam chowder; usually includes potatoes.

CLARIFY: To clear a cloudy liquid by removing sediment (see page 32).

CONSOMMÉ: Clarified stock, often sold in condensed form.

CRÈME FRAÎCHE: A thickened cream with a nutty flavor and velvety rich texture (see page 27).

CROUTONS: Bread cubes lightly browned in oil or melted butter and sautéed or baked, used to garnish soups and salads. Toasted baguette slices are also referred to as croutons.

CUBE: To cut into 1/2-inch or larger cubes.

DEVEIN: To remove the intestine from the curved back of a shrimp.

DICE: To cut into tiny cubes smaller than 1/2 inch.

FILÉ: A powder used to thicken and flavor gumbos and Creole dishes. Made from sassafras leaves.

FLAKE: To separate cooked fish and other foods into sections with a fork.

FLAMEPROOF: A pan such as a Dutch oven that can withstand stovetop, broiler, and oven temperatures.

FLORET: The tender blooms or crown of broccoli or cauliflower.

GARNISH: An edible accompaniment to finish dishes and add eye appeal and flavor.

GRATE: To cut into thin strips using a hand grater or food processor fitted with a grating blade.

CREMOLATA: A garnish made of minced parsley, lemon peel, and garlic. Sometimes crumbs are added (see page 43).

JULIENNE: To cut into matchstick-sized strips.

LEEK: A vegetable that is related to both garlic and onion, though its flavor and fragrance are milder and more subtle.

MINCE: To cut into very fine pieces, as in minced garlic.

MIREPOIX: A mixture of diced carrots, celery, and herbs sautéed in butter. Bacon or ham is sometimes added. Used to season soups and sauces or as a bed to braise food.

PANCETTA: Italian bacon that is cured with salt and spices, not smoked.

PARE: To remove an outer covering, such as potato or apple skin, with a knife.

PEEL: To strip off an outer covering, such as banana or orange skin, by hand.

PESTO: A sauce or paste made from uncooked basil (or other ingredients), olive oil, nuts, garlic, and Parmesan cheese (see page 41).

PREHEAT: To heat the oven to the temperature specified in a recipe.

PURÉE: To reduce food to a smooth, thick consistency with a food processor, blender, or food mill.

ROUILLE: A garnish for fish soups and stews made of chiles, garlic, and oil (see page 44).

ROUX: A mixture of flour and fat cooked over low heat. Used to thicken soups and sauces.

RUSSET: A potato low in moisture and high in starch that is good for cooking. Also called Idaho potato.

SAUTÉ: To cook food in a small amount of fat on top of the stove for a short period of time, stirring often.

SHALLOT: A large, garlic-shaped member of the onion family with a mild onion flavor. Less pungent than garlic.

SKIN: To remove skin from poultry or fish.

SLICE: To cut into flat pieces.

STIR: To mix ingredients in a circular motion.

VELOUTÉ SAUCE: A stock-based white sauce thickened with a roux.

WHISK: To stir ingredients together with a wire whip to blend.

ZEST: The outermost skin layer of citrus fruits (usually lemons or oranges), which is removed with the aid of a citrus zester, paring knife, or vegetable peeler.

COOKING TIPS FOR MAKING AND SERVING
SOUPS & STEWS

• Read the recipe carefully. Shop for all needed ingredients.

• Assemble all ingredients and equipment before starting.

• Do the preparation work (chopping, grating, opening cans, and so on) ahead of time.

• Simmer soups and stews over medium-low or low heat, depending on the stove. Do not boil, just keep them at a gentle ripple. Gas stoves are hotter and faster than electric ones.

• Add vegetables that require a short cooking time (mushrooms, green beans, summer squash, spinach, and so on) at the end of the cooking period to prevent overcooking.

• Add fresh herbs at the end of the cooking time. They lose their flavor and intensity when cooked for a long period of time. Most recipes call for dried herbs or a combination of fresh and dried. Crush dried herbs between your fingers to release flavor.

• Use sea salt or kosher salt for more intense flavor (see page 26).

• Rinse frozen vegetables under hot water before measuring.

• Chop whole canned tomatoes in the can with stainless steel scissors.

• Trim excess skin and fat from chicken with stainless steel kitchen scissors.

• Use a food processor to chop vegetables if uniform pieces for visual purposes are not required. Cut vegetables in large, uniform pieces before placing them in the food processor.

• Use a food processor or blender to make purées to thicken some soups. Purée 1 cup vegetables with a small amount of broth, then blend with the remaining soup in the pan.

• Thicken stews by adding a paste of flour, cornstarch, or arrowroot blended with water to the liquid. Grains, legumes, and tapioca are also used to thicken soups and stews.

• Use a chilled stainless steel bowl to make cold soups.

• Serve hot soups in warmed bowls and cold soups in chilled bowls. (To warm bowls, place in a warm oven for 30 minutes, or pour hot water into the bowls and let them stand for 10 minutes. To chill bowls, place in the freezer for 1 hour.)

• Soups can be served in tureens; large, interesting heatproof bowls; or, for a special occasion, a hollowed-out pumpkin or a hollowed-out round loaf of peasant bread. To prepare a loaf of bread to use as a container for soup, slice off the top quarter. Hollow out the loaf, leaving about 3/4 inch around the edge, being careful not to cut through the bottom. Brush the insides and top with vegetable or olive oil. Bake at 350°F for 10 minutes. Ladle the soup into the bread container and serve immediately. Individual loaves can also be used.

• Store soups and stews, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 or 4 days. (Fish soups do not store well.) Leave the fat layer that accumulates on top until ready to serve (it seals the soup), or freeze in tightly covered containers for 1 to 2 months.

• Reheat soups or stews that have been made ahead over low heat, stirring constantly and adding more liquid if necessary. If using a microwave oven, watch carefully and do not overcook.

HELPFUL EQUIPMENT

• Large stockpot for making stock. The high sides help the stock circulate for even cooking and reduce evaporation.

• Large, stainless steel (nonreactive) or enamel-lined soup pot, with a heavy bottom. Do not use aluminum or iron because tomato products react to these materials.

• Dutch oven. A large, heavy, flameproof pot with a lid, made of cast iron, enamel-lined cast iron, or stainless steel. It retains heat and can be used for browning, sautéing, stewing, braising, or baking. Perfect for making stews and soups.

• Skimmer. A stainless steel tool with a fine mesh used to skim off foam that rises to the top.

• Three or four good knives. A stainless steel chef's knife for chopping, a utility or boning knife, a paring knife, and a serrated knife for slicing bread.

• Food processor or blender for chopping and puréeing. For a velvety-smooth, puréed soup, the blender does the best job. Blend in batches (not more than one third full, with lid on).

• A stick (hand) blender is convenient to use, with less cleanup, but is not as efficient.

• Food mill. Used to strain fiber, seeds, and skin, and to mash and purée. Comes with interchangeable disks. To purée in a food mill, use the fine disk. Convenient but not essential.

• Measuring cups and spoons, whisk, vegetable peeler, wooden spoon or heavy-duty plastic spoon, spatula, slotted spoon, tongs, and timer.

• Stainless steel mesh sieve and colander for draining, or chinois (conical French sieve with an extremely fine mesh) for straining.

• Kitchen scale. Convenient when a recipe calls for an ingredient by weight.

• Cheesecloth for straining stocks or to make a bouquet garni.

• Spice holder or tea caddy for holding spices.

• Soup bowls, soup spoons, and a ladle. Deep bowls keep soup hotter, but wide bowls are more suitable for hearty soups and stews. Mugs work for sipping thin soups. Ovenproof ramekins for baked soups.

• Soup tureen for elegant serving.

• A crockpot or pressure cooker can also be used in making stews and soups. Follow the manufacturer's directions.