Arabic Script on Christian Kings: Textile Inscriptions on Royal Garments from Norman Sicily
Isabelle Dolezalek is the recipient of the 2018 ICMA Annual Book Prize.

Roger II’s famous mantle and other royal garments from twelfth- and thirteenth-century Sicily prominently display Arabic inscriptions. While the phenomenon is highly unusual in the context of Latin Christian kingship, the use of inscriptions as a textile ornament was common and imbued with political functions in the Islamic courts of the medieval Mediterranean. This case study of the inscribed garments from Norman Sicily draws attention to the diverse functions of Arabic textile inscriptions using various contextual frames. Such a contextual approach not only highlights the specificities of the Norman textile inscriptions and emphasises the practical and political choices underlying their use at the Sicilian court, it also pinpoints the flaws of universalising approaches to transcultural ornamental in circulation in the medieval Mediterranean. This new perspective on the royal garments from Norman Sicily draws from a variety of disciplines, including Islamic and European art history, the history of textiles, epigraphy, legal history and historiography, and aims to challenge established notions of cultural and disciplinary boundaries.

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Arabic Script on Christian Kings: Textile Inscriptions on Royal Garments from Norman Sicily
Isabelle Dolezalek is the recipient of the 2018 ICMA Annual Book Prize.

Roger II’s famous mantle and other royal garments from twelfth- and thirteenth-century Sicily prominently display Arabic inscriptions. While the phenomenon is highly unusual in the context of Latin Christian kingship, the use of inscriptions as a textile ornament was common and imbued with political functions in the Islamic courts of the medieval Mediterranean. This case study of the inscribed garments from Norman Sicily draws attention to the diverse functions of Arabic textile inscriptions using various contextual frames. Such a contextual approach not only highlights the specificities of the Norman textile inscriptions and emphasises the practical and political choices underlying their use at the Sicilian court, it also pinpoints the flaws of universalising approaches to transcultural ornamental in circulation in the medieval Mediterranean. This new perspective on the royal garments from Norman Sicily draws from a variety of disciplines, including Islamic and European art history, the history of textiles, epigraphy, legal history and historiography, and aims to challenge established notions of cultural and disciplinary boundaries.

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Arabic Script on Christian Kings: Textile Inscriptions on Royal Garments from Norman Sicily

Arabic Script on Christian Kings: Textile Inscriptions on Royal Garments from Norman Sicily

by Isabelle Dolezalek
Arabic Script on Christian Kings: Textile Inscriptions on Royal Garments from Norman Sicily

Arabic Script on Christian Kings: Textile Inscriptions on Royal Garments from Norman Sicily

by Isabelle Dolezalek

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Overview

Isabelle Dolezalek is the recipient of the 2018 ICMA Annual Book Prize.

Roger II’s famous mantle and other royal garments from twelfth- and thirteenth-century Sicily prominently display Arabic inscriptions. While the phenomenon is highly unusual in the context of Latin Christian kingship, the use of inscriptions as a textile ornament was common and imbued with political functions in the Islamic courts of the medieval Mediterranean. This case study of the inscribed garments from Norman Sicily draws attention to the diverse functions of Arabic textile inscriptions using various contextual frames. Such a contextual approach not only highlights the specificities of the Norman textile inscriptions and emphasises the practical and political choices underlying their use at the Sicilian court, it also pinpoints the flaws of universalising approaches to transcultural ornamental in circulation in the medieval Mediterranean. This new perspective on the royal garments from Norman Sicily draws from a variety of disciplines, including Islamic and European art history, the history of textiles, epigraphy, legal history and historiography, and aims to challenge established notions of cultural and disciplinary boundaries.


Product Details

ISBN-13: 9783110532128
Publisher: De Gruyter
Publication date: 06/12/2017
Series: Das Mittelalter. Perspektiven mediävistischer Forschung. Beihefte , #5
Sold by: Barnes & Noble
Format: eBook
Pages: 275
File size: 194 MB
Note: This product may take a few minutes to download.
Age Range: 18 Years

About the Author

Isabelle Dolezalek, Freie Universität Berlin und Technische Universität Berlin


Isabelle Dolezalek, Freie Universität Berlin and Technische Universität Berlin, Germany.

Table of Contents

Preface ix

Introduction xi

Chapter I Shaping Perceptions: Reading and Interpreting the Norman Arabic Textile Inscriptions 1

1 Arabic-Inscribed Textiles from Norman and Hohenstaufen Sicily 2

2 Inscribed Textiles and Arabic Inscriptions in European Medieval Arts 43

3 Historical Receptions of the Ceremonial Garments from Norman Sicily 51

4 Approaches to Arabic Inscriptions in European Medieval Arts: Methodological Considerations 64

Chapter II An Imported Ornament? Comparing the Functions of Textile Inscriptions in Sicily and Fatimid Egypt 73

1 Courtly Self-Representation and Public Inscriptions in Fatimid Egypt and Norman Sicily 75

2 Textile Production in Norman Sicily and Fatimid Egypt 80

3 The Textile Evidence: Styles and Contents of Textile Inscriptions in Norman Sicily and Fatimid Egypt 92

4 Functions of Textile Inscriptions in Norman Sicily and Fatimid Egypt 105

5 Similarities and Differences in Production Modes, Style, Content and Function 119

Chapter III Contextualising Ornament: Seeing and Reading Arabic Textile Inscriptions in Norman Public Display 121

1 The 'Populus Trilinguis' and the Three Languages of the Court 123

2 The Weight of Arabic in Norman Public Writing: A Distorted Picture? 127

3 Staging Textile Inscriptions: The Norman Garments and Their Contemporary Audiences 138

4 Visible or Invisible - Legible or Illegible? 147

5 Inscriptions as Sound 156

6 Political Scheme or Practical Reasons? Arabic Language in Norman Public Inscriptions 160

Chapter IV The Kufic Inscription on Roger II's Mantle: Continuity as a Political Choice 165

1 The Origins of the 'Arabic Facet' of Roger II's Court: 'Re-Arabisation'? 167

2 Tracing Continuities in Silk Production and Epigraphy in Pre-Norman and Norman Sicily 170

3 Roger II's Mantle as Part of a Local Artistic Tradition 184

4 Situating the Production of Roger II's Mantle in its Political Context 187

Chapter V A Textile Archive: The Norman Alb as a Document of Political Authority 191

1 Arabic Public Writing Under William II 191

2 Parallels in William II's Legal and Artistic Self-Representation 195

3 The Alb as Document: Visuality and Materiality in the Performance of Legal Acts 200

4 The Political Context of the Alb's Embroidered Inscription 204

5 The Alb as an Archive of Political Continuity and Legitimacy 205

Conclusion 211

Appendix 219

Image Credits 225

Bibliography 229

Index 251

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