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AUTHENTIC VICTORIAN FASHION PATTERNS
A Complete Lady's Wardrobe
By Kristina Harris Dover Publications, Inc.
Copyright © 1999 Dover Publications, Inc.
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-0-486-13282-2
CHAPTER 1
GENERAL DIRECTIONS
TO TAKE MEASURES. Great care should be taken in getting measures. (See illustration below.)
TAKE BUST MEASURE with the tape measure straight around the largest part of the bust, as shown below, high up under the arms; take a snug, close measure neither too tight nor too loose.
TAKE MEASURE AROUND THE WAIST as tight as the dress is to be worn.
TAKE LENGTH OF WAIST from the large joint where neck and body join, down to the waist. Care must be taken to get this measure.
SLEEVE MEASURE is taken from the center of back to wrist joint, with arm raised and elbow bent.
IN CUTTING a garment look carefully at the drafts being copied; use numbers and curves as shown in draft.
THE ARROWS are used for two purposes—one to show which way to turn the curve, the other the number of points to be connected with the curve.
THE CURVE should always be turned with the largest part in the direction in which the arrow points.
When the arrow is placed between two lines it shows that only two points are to be connected.
When the arrow is placed upon a cross line it shows that three points must be connected with the curve, that the point by the arrow is the middle one, and the points nearest on each side must be connected with the curve at the same time with larger part of the curve turned in the direction the arrow points.
The letter A in corner of draft is the starting point in making draft.
DIRECTIONS FOR BASTING.
FIRST:—Smooth, even tracing is very necessary. Place the pattern smooth on lining crosswise. Trace each line carefully. Cut out the lining same as pattern. Place the lining straight on the goods, the nap, if any, running down. Pin the lining at the waist line. Full the lining (from ¼ to ½ inch) each side of the waist line, from 1 ½ inches below the waist line to 2 ½ inches above, the greatest fullness coming at the waist line; this shortens the lining, but when boned it will be stretched to place. Leave the lining easy each way, from top of darts to shoulders, and one-fourth of an inch full at center of shoulder line. Never backstitch in basting or draw the thread tight.
In joining the different parts together, care must be taken, as smooth, even basting is necessary. Pass the needle exactly through the traced seam lines on both sides of the seam, as many garments are ruined by careless basting.
In joining the back and side-back, hold the side-back to you, thus you will baste one up and the other down. It is a good idea to pin these pieces before basting. If the shoulder blades are prominent, hold the back piece a little full where the shoulder blades strike to within 1 ½ inches of arms-eye. In basting the shoulders, hold the back to you. Baste evenly for one inch, then stretch the front shoulder to match the back, for the back is always cut longer.
MISSES' WRAPPER. Summer 1893
Use the scale corresponding with the Bust measure to draft the entire garment, which consists of upper and under Fronts, upper and under Backs, side-back and three sleeve portions. This wrapper is suitable for a Miss or a Lady. Cut the upper portions out at the neck. (See diagrams.) Gather and sew to the under front and back. If desirable the Front may be shirred at the Waist line, same as the Back. Gather the upper Sleeve and sew to the lining.
Regulate the length of the Skirt by the tape-measure.
LADIES' TEA GOWN. Spring 1893
Use scale corresponding with the Bust measure to draft the entire garment, which consists of three front portions, Back and Side-back, Sleeve and Cuff.
The shirring is made of lace or soft silk. Join the different portions as indicated on the cuts. Any style of trimming may be used.
Regulate the length by the tape-measure.
LADIES' DRAWERS. Fall 1890
LADIES' DRAWERS.
Use the scale corresponding with the waist measure.
Draft the same as any other garment.
Make the band the length and width desired.
Regulate the length by the tape measure.
LADIES' DRAWERS. Spring 1893
Use the scale corresponding with the Waist measure to draft the entire garment, which consists of one-half of the drawers and band.
Make allowance for tucks. Regulate by the tape measure.
LADIES' DRAWERS. Spring 1895
Select the scale corresponding with the waist measure.
It is in two pieces: One-half of the drawers and one-halt of the band. These can be closed or left open.
Gather the extra fullness at the top and sew to the band.
Make all allowances for tucks.
Regulate the length by the tape line.
LADIES' STREET COSTUME. Fall 1890
Use the scale corresponding with the bust measure to draft the entire Polonaise, which consists of 8 pieces—Upper and Under Right Front, Left Front, Back, SideBack, Collar and two Sleeve Portions.
Shirr or lay pleats at the shoulder of the upper right front. Lay the pleats at the sides according to the notches, make it come even with the skirt at the bottom. The left front may be trimmed with braid, velvet or ribbon. Lay the pleats in the back and side-back according to the notches, forming two box pleats in the back. Join the under right front at the under-arm dart and shoulder seam.
The sleeves may be trimmed with bands of velvet, ribbons or braiding, or with the ruching as the figure represents.
The skirt is given on page 10; draft by the scale corresponding with the waist measure, is in three pieces—Front, Back and Side-Gore.
Regulate the length by the tape measure.
YOUNG MISSES' STREET COSTUME. Fall 1890
Use the scale corresponding with the bust measure to draft the entire waist and sleeves, which consists of Upper and Under Fronts and Backs, Side Back and two Sleeve portions
Draft this the same as all others.
Lay pleats in the front and back as represented.
Gather the sleeves at the top to fit the arms-eye.
Draft the skirt by the scale corresponding with the waist measure.
Trim to suit.
Regulate the length by the tape measure.
STREET COSTUME. Fall 1890
Use the scale corresponding with the bust measure to draft the entire waist, which consists of Upper and Under Fronts, Back, Side Back, Under Arm-gore, Collar, and Sleeve.
Baste the side form on to the back as far down as the seam line is marked, and from there down to the bottom, lap the side form over the back; finish with small buttons, set close together, on each side of the back. Face the upper front as far back as the dotted line, and turn back for a rolling collar, extending to the bottom of the garment Take up the dart, cut out and press the seam open, Join to the under arm-gore; also join the under front or vest to the under arm-gore.
The diagrams for the drapery are given on page 15. Draft by the scale corresponding with the waist measure. It consists of two pieces: Front and Back. Lay the back in two double box pleats. Lay the pleats in the front according to the notches; make it even with the skirt. Cut the foundation skirt from any of the plain skirt patterns. Regulate to suit.
LADIES' STREET COSTUME. Winter 1890-91
Use the scale corresponding with the bust measure to draft the basque, which consists of front-back, side-back and under-arm-gore. Braid the waist down the front and the sleeves same as the skirt. The jacket is given on page 17. Draft by bust measure; it consists of front-back, side-back, under-arm-gore, standing and medici collars, and two sleeve portions. Sew the medici collar on the dotted line, close the front with large patent hooks, make the garment as long as desirable.
The drapery is given on page 18. Draft with scale corresponding with the waist measure; is in two pieces, front and back; lay the pleats in the front according to the notches, gather or pleat the back. The diagrams for the foundation skirt are given on page 19. Draft by waist measure. It consists of front, back and side-gore. Regulate the length of the entire garment by the tape measure.
LADIES' STREET COSTUME. Spring 1891
Use the scale corresponding with the bust measure to draft the jacket, which consists of front and skirt, back, side back, collar, pocket lap and two sleeve portions. Draft this the same as all other garments. Baste the front and side back together, take up the darts, then baste the skirt on; connect the notches. Bring the front of the collar to the notch in front. Gather or pleat the sleeves very full on the top. Make the jacket to match the suit or of any suitable material.
The drapery is drafted by the waist measure. The diagrams are given on pages 21 and 22. Lay the pleats according to the notches. Face the bottom with silk or any suitable material. Use any waist given in this issue or any other. The jacket may be trimmed to correspond with the skirt, that is the rolling collar, sleeves and pocket laps.
Regulate the length of the entire garment with the tape measure.
YOUNG MISSES' STREET COSTUME. Spring 1891
Use the scale corresponding with the bust measure to draft waist and jacket—the waist consists of upper and under front, back, side back, under-arm-gore and girdle. Lay pleats on the upper front according to the notches, close with hooks and eyes on the shoulder and under the arms. The jacket may be omitted if desirable.
The skirt and drapery is drafted by the waist measure. The skirt is in three pieces—front, back breadth and side-gore. The drapery is in one piece. Lay the pleats according to the notches. Make a box pleat over the hip and two in the back. Trim to suit. Regulate the length by the tape measure.
LADIES' STREET COSTUME Spring 1893
Use the scale corresponding with the Bust measure to draft the entire waist, which consists of two Fronts, Back, Collar and three sleeve portions. The Back is seamless. Be sure and cut but one of each fronts, as one is for the right side and the other is for the left. Gather the upper part of the sleeve at the bottom, sew it to the under sleeve, gather it through the center or on the dotted line; draw it up to fit the under sleeve, then gather the top; also gather the top of the under sleeve. The sleeve lining on page 28 may be used instead for the under sleeve, if desired, as it will not require so much material.
The Skirt is given on pages 26 and 27. Draft by the waist measure; it is in four pieces—two Fronts, Back and Side Gore. Join the upper front to to the back. The under front and side-gore may be made of a contrasting material, with good results.
Regulate the length by the tape measure.
LADIES' STREET COSTUME. Spring 1893
Use the scale corresponding with the Bust measure to draft the Waist, Jacket and Sleeves. The waist is in six pieces, namely: Front, Back, Girdle, Collar and two Sleeve portions. Gather at the neck and waist; cut the back double.
The Jacket is given on page 30. The back is cut double, round it in the center. This is very pretty made of black velvet with the large full sleeve puff given on page 26, omitting the shirring through the center if made of the velvet. Trim it all around and up the back with fancy tinsel or gimp; trim around the arm's eye also. The effect is very pretty.
The skirt is given on page 31. Draft by the waist measure. This is a one piece skirt. Gather it all all around, putting most of the fulness in the center of the back. Trim the bottom to suit.
Regulate the length by the tape-measure.
Use the scale corresponding with the Bust measure to draft the entire Waist, Jacket and Sleeves.
The Waist consists of Front, Back, Top of Sleeve, Sleeve Band, Puff and Cuff. Gather the waist between the notches and sew to a belt. Fasten on the left side invisibly.
The Jacket is cut in one piece. This gives the pointed front which may be rounded off if preferred, or the point may be cut shorter. Turn back on the dotted line for revers. The diagrams for Jacket, Cuff and Puff are given on Page 34.
The Skirt is given on Page 33 Draft by waist measure, this gives the six gores and also the fullness, so much desired at present. Put the different parts together according to the stars, gather the extra fullness in at the waist. Regulate the length to suit.
LADIES' STREET COSTUME. Summer 1893
Use the scale corresponding with the Bust Measure to draft the Waist, Sleeves and Cape. The Waist consists of front, back, side-back, two under arm gores, two sleeve portions and collar. This is suitable for a medium form. The bottom may be shaped to suit the wearer. The Cape is in one piece. The diagram is given on page 37. Line with silk; trim with velvet satin bands, or folds.
The Skirt is drafted by the Waist Measure. It is in one piece. This is a very full skirt, some call it the fluted lamp shade. It looks best trimmed with flat bands or milliner folds, or scant ruffles. Make it clear the floor all around. Regulate the length by the tape-measure.
Use the scale corresponding with the Bust Measure to draft the entire Waist and Sleeves.
The Blouse Waist consists of Front, Back, Sleeve, Cuff and Collar. Tuck the Front, hem the bottom and wear under the Skirt.
The Jacket is in two pieces, Front and Back. Make of velvet, trim with embroidery.
The Skirt is drafted by the Waist Measure; is in one piece. Gather all around, bringing most of the fullness in the center of the back. Trim to suit, either with velvet or satin.
Regulate the length by the tape-measure.
Use the scale corresponding with the Bust Measure to draft the Jacket and Waist. The waist is the seamless, except the shoulder seams. Close in front with hooks and eyes. The Jacket is in two pieces—Front and Back. Lay the pleats in front according to the notches; the bretelle extends across the back of the neck and down the front line with contrasting silk; gather on the dotted line.
The Skirt is drafted by the waist measure; is in two pieces, Front and Back breadth. This is the Bell skirt with a back breadth set in to give the required fullness. Trim to represent a double skirt. The sleeve is gathered all around the top and allowed to fall down over the arms. Tack to the lining to keep in place.
Regulate the length by the tape measure.
Use the scale corresponding with the Bust measure to draft the entire waist, which consists of Upper and Under-Front, Back, Side-Back, jacket Front and Back. Cut the Upper-Front double and fasten on the shoulder and under the arms. Gather the extra fullness at the waist and sew to a belt. The back of the jacket is cut double but rounded up from the bottom. The sleeves and skirt are given on page 44. Gather the top of the balloon sleeve and baste to the lining. Gather the extra fullness on the upper-side and baste in the seams. The Skirt is drafted by the waist measure. Gather the top, finish the bottom with a deep Spanish flounce. Make an extra flounce underneath with wiry goods to make it flare out. Regulate to suit.
LADIES' STREET COSTUME. Spring 1894
Use the scale corresponding with the Bust measure to draft the entire Basque, which consists of one-half of Waist and Basque Skirt. This is a novelty, but is very pretty when properly made. The Waist gives the seamless effect in the back, but has one dart on each side and one in the center of Front. The right Front may be cut off from 2 ½ down to 5 ¾. Close down the center of Front with hooks and eyes; lap the left Front over the right and button. Whalebone the lining under the arms and each dart.
Line the Basque Skirt with silk and sew to the waist, or finish with a band and hook the Waist to it; let it remain open down the front. It may be cut longer or shorter, just to suit.
The Sleeves are given on page 46, three pieces, upper and under Sleeve and Sleeve puff. Sew the puff on the dotted line.
The Skirt is given on page 47. Draft by the Waist measure. Is in three pieces, Front, Back and Side-gore. Put the parts together as they are marked. Any style of trimming may be used for the entire garment. Regulate the length by the tape measure.
Use the scale corresponding with the Bust measure to draft the entire Jacket and Waist. The Jacket consists of Front, Back, Side-back, Under-arm-gore, Rolling Collar and three Sleeve portions. This gives the full skirt effect. Gather the upper sleeve all around with very large stitches. Join the notch on top to the shoulder seam.
The Waist consists of Front and Back Yoke, and gathered portion for front and back. Close on the shoulder and under-the-arm. Finish the bottom with a soft belt fastened under the arm. Use any sleeves given.
The Skirt is drafted by the Waist measure; is in four pieces, Front, Back, and two Side-gores; one may be omitted if desirable.
Regulate the length by the tape measure.
(Continues...)
Excerpted from AUTHENTIC VICTORIAN FASHION PATTERNS by Kristina Harris. Copyright © 1999 Dover Publications, Inc.. Excerpted by permission of Dover Publications, Inc..
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