Read an Excerpt
chapter 1
Wrapped Stitches at Play
My favorite way to design is to play. In this chapter I show you creative techniques I’ve developed by playing with a simple stitch and manipulating it with extra wraps. If you are relatively new to knitting, this is the ideal chapter for us to begin exploring the art of knitting together.
By wrapping the yarn more than once around your needle, you create an elongated stitch, opening up a world of design possibilities. Elongated stitches can travel a longer distance without puckering the fabric, which allows for unexpected cabling and texture techniques. In the Laxo Hat (page 25), for example, the elongated stitches are crossed in a pattern, creating a “faux” cable stitch that works perfectly with hand-dyed yarn. In the Bootsy Boot Toppers (page 29), the elongated stitches are crossed in multiples so that the stitch pattern resembles a woven fabric. The Folly Cloche (page 21) utilizes another trick in which the elongated stitches are twisted 360 degrees on the needle, creating a traveling “cord” of stitches. I stumbled across this possibility when my double-pointed needle got twisted around by mistake!
What a blast playing with this technique is! I think I’ve only scratched the surface of designing with wrapped stitches.
1
Elongating Stitches
To play with wrapped stitches, we first need to create an extra-long, or elongated, stitch. If you wanted your stitch to be longer, you could work it more loosely, but this would make it hard to keep your gauge even. Another way to handle this is to take the yarn and wind it two or even three times around the needle. (Typically, when you work a stitch, you only wrap the yarn around the needle once, right?) When you drop these wraps on the next row, you’ve made a stitch that is twice or even three times the length of a “regular” stitch. Once you have an elongated stitch, there are many possibilities for playing with them.
Wrapping Stitch Twice
Insert the right-hand needle into the next stitch on the left-hand needle, wrap the yarn twice around the right-hand needle, at its widest circumference, and then complete the stitch as usual, either a knit or a purl stitch.
Wrapping Stitch Three Times
Insert the right-hand needle into the next stitch on the left-hand needle, wrap the yarn three times around the right-hand needle, at its widest circumference, and then complete the stitch as usual, either a knit or a purl stitch.
Dropping Extra Wraps
The most elementary way to work with wrapped stitches is to simply knit or purl them on the next row, which creates an open fabric. When you reach the extra wraps created in the previous row, slide the extra wrap(s) off the left-hand needle before working that stitch.
Knit (or Purl) Criss-Cross 4 (6)
This technique, as well as Opposite Purl Criss-Cross 4 (below), reorients multiple elongated stitches’ positions on the needles so that they criss-cross over each other. Slip 1 stitch purlwise (dropping the extra wraps) 4 (6) times onto the right-hand needle. With the left-hand needle pass the first 2 (3) slipped stitches over the last 2 (3) slipped stitches and onto the left-hand needle. Move the remaining 2 (3) slipped stitches onto the left-hand needle. Knit or purl these 4 (6) stitches.
Opposite Purl Criss-Cross 4
Slip 1 stitch purlwise (dropping the extra wraps) 4 times onto the right-hand needle, move all 4 stitches back over to the left-hand needle. With the right-hand needle pass the first 2 slipped stitches over the last 2 slipped stitches, leaving them on the left-hand needle. Purl these 4 stitches.
Across-6 (4, 3)
Use this technique to cross individual elongated stitches over each other. Drop the first stitch from the left-hand needle, leave it to the front of the work, and slip the next 4 (2, 1) stitches to the right-hand needle. Drop the next stitch, leaving it to the front of the work, and place the first stitch back onto the left-hand needle. Slip the 4 (2, 1) stitches from the right-hand needle back to the left-hand needle. Take the last dropped stitch and place it onto the left-hand needle. Knit these 6 (4, 3) stitches. Don’t worry when dropping these stitches; since they have been elongated, they won’t go anywhere. Just be careful when you pick them back up that the right leg of the stitch is to the front of the needle (i.e., don’t twist it).
Open Split-6 (4)
This technique moves individual elongated stitches away from each other. Slip the next 2 (1) stitches onto the right-hand needle, drop the next stitch and leave to the front of the work, and slip 2 (1) stitches back to the left-hand needle. Pick up the dropped stitch, put it onto the left-hand needle, and knit these 3 (2) stitches. Drop the next stitch, leaving it to the front of the work, and slip the next 2 (1) stitches onto the right-hand needle. Pick up the dropped stitch and place it onto the left-hand needle, then slip 2 (1) stitches back to left-hand needle. Knit these 3 (2) stitches.
A great starter project that introduces wrapped stitches, this funky
cuff also highlights a favorite handmade button. You’ll learn how to
elongate stitches to create the pattern and an integrated buttonhole
at the same time. How easy is that?
I don’t know about you, but I have stashes—there are yarn, bead,
and even button stashes. This project helps me whittle down two out
of those three stashes. I love wearing multiple versions together and
this might be the fastest gift I’ve ever knit. I’d love to see the
combinations that you come up with!
Wave Cuff
Skill Level
Beginner
Materials
12 yd (11m) DK-weight yarn
US size 7 (4.5mm) needles, or size needed to obtain gauge
Tapestry needle
¾" (2cm) oval porcelain button (Melissa Jean Design)
Yarn Used
Lion Brand Cashmere; 100% cashmere; 0.88 oz (25g), 82 yd (75m); 1 skein each in Cruise (106), Sprout (173), and Toffee (124)
Gauge
21 stitches and 32 rows = 4" (10cm) in stockinette stitch, blocked
Size
Small (Medium)
Shown in both sizes
The pattern is written for multiple lengths. Instructions are given for size small, with larger size in parentheses.
Finished Measurements
7 (8)" (18 [20.5]cm) long x 1¾" (4.5cm) wide
To Fit
5½ (6½)" (14 [16.5]cm) wrist circumference
Cuff
Using the long-tail method (page 150), cast on 32 (37) sts.
Row 1: Knit all sts.
Row 2: K8 (13), *k1 wrapping yarn twice, [k1 wrapping yarn 3 times] 3 times, k1 wrapping yarn twice, k3; repeat from
• twice more.
Row 3: Knit across, dropping extra wraps when you reach them.
Rows 4 and 5: Knit all sts.
Row 6: K8 (13), k1 wrapping yarn twice, k3, k1 wrapping yarn twice, *[k1 wrapping yarn 3 times] 3 times, k1 wrapping yarn twice, k3, k1 wrapping yarn twice; rep from
• once more, k1 wrapping yarn 3 times, k2.
Row 7: Knit all sts, dropping extra wraps when you reach them.
Rows 8 and 9: Knit all sts.
Row 10: Repeat Row 2.
Row 11: Knit all sts, dropping extra wraps when you reach them.
Row 12: Knit all sts.
Bind off loosely. Weave in ends and block (page 152) to measurements.
With right side facing, sew button onto the right edge of the garter stitch tab; see photo.
Wrapping
Tips and Tricks
Work wraps loosely. If you wrap tightly, they will not slide on the needle.
Wrap yarn around the widest circumference of the needle, not around the needle tip.
When you have wrapped stitches on the needle, do not pull down on your work as this will collapse the stitches and prevent them from sliding easily!
Do not count wraps as extra stitches. All the wraps can make it difficult to check your stitch numbers on rows in which elongated stitches are worked. It’s best to count your stitches on the following row, when all the stitches are restored to “normal.”
Prolix Mitts
Take your wrapping skills up a notch by using multiple needle sizes to play with stitch length and density. This creates a ruched fabric. These mitts have a long cuff that can be worn pulled up or slouched down, and an integrated thumb gusset.
As soon as these mitts came off the needles, my teenager began campaigning for a pair of her own (in black, of course). In my world her approval is pretty much the most accurate test of a successful design! Needless to say, we both will get our own version of this super-fast and functional knit.
Prolix Mitts
[ART: 001–022]
Skill Level
Advanced Beginner
Materials
160 (180, 200) yd (146 [166, 183]m) worsted-weight yarn
US size 6 (4mm) double-pointed needles (or 1 long circular needle), or two sizes smaller than needed to obtain gauge
US size 8 (5mm) double-pointed needles (or 1 long circular needle), or size needed to obtain gauge
Stitch markers
Scrap yarn (for stitch holder)
Tapestry needle
Yarn Used
Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Worsted; 100% merino wool; 4 oz (114g), 225 yd (206m); 1 skein in Chino
Gauge
18 stitches and 28 rounds = 4” (10cm) in stockinette stitch on larger needle, blocked
Size
Women’s Small (Medium, Large)
Shown in Small
The pattern is written for multiple sizes. Instructions are given for size small, with larger sizes in parentheses.
Finished Measurements
7 (7½, 8¼)” (18 [19, 21]cm) hand circumference
Cuff
With smaller needles and the long-tail method (page 150), cast on 32 (34, 36) sts. Join for working in the round distributing sts on needles as preferred, being careful not to twist the sts. If desired, mark the beginning of the round with a removable stitch marker or safety pin.
Round 1: Knit all sts.
Round 2: Purl all sts.
Repeat these two rounds once more. Switch to larger needles.
Round 5: Knit all sts.
Round 6: Knit all sts, wrapping yarn twice for each st.
Round 7: Knit all sts, dropping extra wrap when you reach them. Switch to smaller needles.
Round 8: Knit all sts.
Round 9: Purl all sts.
Repeat the last two rounds once more. Switch to larger needles.
Round 12: Knit all sts.
Round 13: Knit all sts, wrapping yarn 3 times for each st.
Round 14: Knit all sts, dropping extra wraps when you reach them. Switch to smaller needles.
Repeat Rounds 1–14 twice more, then repeat Rounds 1–12 once more. Cuff measures approximately 8½” (21.5cm) from cast-on edge.
Final Round: Knit to the last st, k1f&b—33 (35, 37) sts.
Shape Thumb Gusset
Set-Up Round: K16 (17, 18), place marker, m1R, k1, m1L, place marker, knit to end of round—35 (37, 39) sts.
Knit 2 rounds.
Increase Round: Knit to marker, sl marker, m1R, knit to next marker, m1L, sl marker, knit to end of round—2 sts increased.
Knit 2 rounds.
Repeat these last three rounds 3 (4, 4) times more—11 (13, 13) sts between markers.
Next Round: Knit to marker, remove marker, slip thumb gusset sts onto a length of scrap yarn, remove marker, cast on 1 st over gap left by gusset, and knit to end of round—33 (35, 37) sts.
Knit around until the piece measures 12 (12½, 13)” (30.5 [32, 33]cm) from cast-on edge.
Switch to smaller needles.
Purl 1 round.
Knit 1 round.
Bind off.
Thumb
With larger needles, return held thumb gusset sts to three needles, distributing sts as you prefer. With right side facing, rejoin yarn and pick up and k1 st tbl over gap and join for working in the round—12 (14, 14) sts.
Knit 4 (4, 5) rounds.
Switch to smaller needles
Purl 1 round.
Knit 1 round.
Bind off.
Weave in ends, and use the tail at the base of the thumb to close up gaps at the thumb gusset.
Wet-block (page 152), and wear!
The band in this cloche is created with a twisted double wrap stitch that I invented to help this 1920s-inspired cloche fit properly. The Folly Cloche is worked from the top down in stockinette stitch and finished off with a short-row-shaped brim.
A well-fitting cloche usually has a band that helps it sit snugly on the head, and I wanted to find an openwork stitch that would serve this purpose. The challenge was that open stitches normally make your gauge looser! I started to explore, twisting my needle all the way around, and realized that would tighten things up a bit.
Folly Cloche
[ART: 506–536]
Skill Level
Intermediate
Materials
145 (165, 185) yd (133 [151, 170]m) superwash worsted-weight yarn
US size 6 (4mm) double-pointed needles (or 1 long circular needle), or size needed to obtain gauge
US size 6 (4mm) 16” (40cm) circular needle, or size needed to obtain gauge
US size 7 (4.5mm) 16” (40cm) circular needle, or one size larger than needed to obtain gauge
Stitch marker
Tapestry needle
Yarn Used
Jill Draper Makes Stuff Hudson; 100% merino wool; 4 oz (113g), 240 yd (219m); 1 skein in Cinnabar
Gauge
21 stitches and 28 rounds = 4” (10cm) in stockinette stitch on smaller needle, blocked
Size
Small (Medium, Large)
Shown in Medium
The pattern is written for multiple sizes. Instructions are given for size small, with larger sizes in parentheses.
Finished Measurements
18¼ (20, 21¼)” (46 [51, 54]cm) around, unstretched
Notes
•This cloche should fit snugly, so choose a size that is approximately 1½” (3.8cm) smaller than your desired head circumference.
•You will have better success with the fit of this hat if you use a superwash yarn, as it is more elastic and will stretch better when you work the twisted stitch in the brim.
Crown
Using the smaller needle, cast on 8 sts with a circular cast-on (page 151).
Slide the sts to the other end of the needle and knit 1 row distributing sts evenly over your needles as preferred. Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the sts. If desired, mark the beginning of the round with a removable stitch marker or safety pin.
Round 1: *K1f&b; rep from
• to end of round—16 sts.
Round 2 and all even rounds: Knit all sts.
Round 3: *K2, m1R; rep from
• to end of round—24 sts.
Round 5: *K3, m1R; rep from
• to end of round—32 sts.
Round 7: *K4, m1R; rep from
• to end of round—40 sts.
Round 9: *K5, m1R; rep from
• to end of round—48 sts.
Round 11: *K6, m1R; rep from
• to end of round—56 sts.
Round 13: *K7, m1R; rep from
• to end of round—64 sts.