Winner of the Jane Grigson Trust Award 2017 and the Aragonese Academy of Gastronomy’s 2017 Prize for Research
New Art of Cookery, Drawn from the School of Economic Experience, was an influential recipe book published in 1745 by Spanish friary cook Juan Altamiras. In it, he wrote up over 200 recipes for meat, poultry, game, salted and fresh fish, vegetables and sweet things in a chatty style aimed at readers who cooked on a modest budget. He showed that economic cookery could be delicious if flavors and aromas were blended with an appreciation for all sorts of ingredients, however humble, and for diverse food cultures, ranging from that of Aragon, his home region, to those of Iberian court and New World kitchens. This first English translation gives guidelines for today’s cooks alongside the original text, and interweaves a new narrative portraying 18th-century Spain, its everyday life, and food culture. The author traces links between New Art’s dishes and modern Spanish cookery, tells the story of her search to identify the book’s author and understand the popularity of his book for over 150 years, and takes travelers, cooks, historians, and students of Spanish language, culture, and gastronomy on a fascinating journey to the world of Altamiras and, most important of all, his kitchen.
Vicky Hayward is a British writer and editor specializing in Spanish food history. After studying history at the University of Cambridge, she worked in London and Vanuatu. In 1990 her travel writing and journalism took her to Madrid. Her articles and essays on Spanish food and cuisine, culture, travel, flamenco and social issues have been widely published in travel guides, books, magazines, blogs, newspapers and books ranging from the Oxford Companion to Food to The Guardian.
Table of Contents
PREFACE INTRODUCTION: THE FRIAR’S TALE PROLOGUE New Art of Cookery, Drawn from the School of Economic Practice BOOK IDISHES FOR MEAT DAYS THE SHEPHERDS’ TRACK CHAPTER I On Meat CHAPTER II More Meat Dishes CHAPTER III Continuing, On the Previous Subject CHAPTER IV On Fowl BOOK IILEAN DAY AND FASTING DISHES: FISH, EGGS, VEGETABLES, PULSES 109 THE FRIARS’ SPRING CHAPTER I On Salt Cod CHAPTER II On Fish and Eggs CHAPTER III More Dishes for Lean Days CHAPTER IV On Vegetables, Pulses, and Other Dishes AN ADDITION: Iced Drinks and Other Advice AFTERWORD COOKING WITH ALTAMIRAS: GUIDELINES AND GLOSSARY