Read an Excerpt
Subway Adventure Guide
New York City
By Amy Plitt, Kyle Knoke Triumph Books
Copyright © 2015 Amy Plitt and Kyle Knoke
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-63319-176-1
CHAPTER 1
to Van Cortlandt Park-242 St
Situated at the crossroads of Riverdale, Kingsbridge, and Fieldston, this subway stop deposits riders into one of the most storied corners of the Bronx. Anchored by Van Cortlandt Park, the third-largest park in the city, the area just off the 1 is full of historic sites and natural attractions; it's also one of the borough's wealthiest enclaves.
The neighborhood dates back to well before Dutch settlers arrived in New York. Glacial activity created the terrain of what later became Van Cortlandt Park, and the Lenape took up residence in the area more than a thousand years ago. Once European settlers arrived, they quickly established some of the landmarks the area is best known for, including the park and the Van Cortlandt House Museum (named for the Van Cortlandt family, who lived there for more than 100 years).
As time progressed, Riverdale became a genteel settlement, while Kingsbridge remained solidly middle-class. Irish immigrants settled in the area (hence the proliferation of pubs and Catholic churches), and in the latter part of the 20 century, the two neighborhoods became more diverse. Fieldston, a hamlet close to the park, is one of the Bronx's richest enclaves, and home to tony institutions like Horace Mann School and the Ethical Culture Fieldston School.
To see these historical areas for yourself, take the 1 to the end of the line. You'll exit right into Van Cortlandt Park, but be sure to wander the quiet streets, which seem like something out of a storybook rather than the Bronx.
1 Van Cortlandt Park. Set on more than 1,000 acres, this massive park is one of the city's best-preserved natural spaces. There are miles of trails, natural forest, and wetlands.
2 Van Cortlandt House Museum. Built in 1748, this stone structure is the oldest house in the Bronx. It was built by Frederick Van Cortlandt for his family, and now holds artifacts from New York's earliest days.
3 Tortoise and the Hare statue. This sculpture has been a marker on Van Cortlandt Park's three-mile cross-country track since 1997, alluding to the fable about the slow and steady tortoise and the too-quick hare.
4 Van Cortlandt Park Golf Course. Yes, there's a golf course in the middle of the Bronx: "Vanny" (the local nickname) opened in 1895, and has been a popular spot for tee time ever since.
5 Bell Tower Park. The heart of this small park is a 50-foot stone tower designed by architect Dwight James Baum. It was erected in 1930 and dedicated to World War I veterans.
6 Jake's Steakhouse. A former sports bar-turned-chophouse, Jake's offers solid renditions of classic steakhouse dishes: wedge salad, filet mignon topped with blue cheese, and creamed spinach, to name a few.
7 Bronx Alehouse. Yes, you can watch football and basketball at this pub, but it's no mere sports bar: delicious pub grub (try the nachos) and an oftrotating draft list elevate it to the ranks of an excellent neighborhood bar.
8 Gaelic Park. Harking back to Riverdale's Irish roots, this stadium hosts sporting events (including hurling, a high-speed lacrosse-like game) for the Gaelic Athletics Association, as well as Manhattan College.
9 An Beal Bocht Cafe. This convivial Irish pub is one of the neighborhood's best spots for live music, a pint (try the house beer, Le Chéile), and a comforting plate of grub, like bangers and mash.
5 FACTS OFF THE
1
1. As a small child, President John F. Kennedy lived in a house on Independence Avenue and went to Riverdale Country School.
2. Famous non-Presidential Riverdale residents include Carly Simon, Neil DeGrasse Tyson, and Lou Gehrig.
3. Jack Kerouac, who spent a year at Horace Mann, referenced the 242 Street stop in his seminal novel On the Road.
4. Riverdale is among the highest New York City neighborhoods with views of Manhattan.
5. The lake in Van Cortlandt Park is the largest freshwater lake in all of the Bronx.
ALONG THE WAY
231 St Tibbett Diner. The expansive menu at this local favorite encompasses diner classics, Greek specialties, and more.
Marble Hill-225 St Marble Hill Avenue. This small street in Manhattan's northernmost neighborhood is full of Victorian-style homes.
Dyckman St Sherman Creek Park. Rowing clubs gather at the Peter Jay Sharp Boathouse, just one feature of this waterfront park.
191 St Primavera. Artist Raúl Colón created this glass subway mosaic, inspired by the diversity of Washington Heights.
157 St Trinity Cemetery. Ralph Ellison, Jerry Orbach, and Ed Koch are among the famous folks buried at this gravesite.
4
to Woodlawn
Exit the subway at the end of the 4, and you'll be in a bit of an odd place. Despite its name, the station doesn't sit in the Woodlawn neighborhood; that area's main thoroughfares (Katonah Avenue, McLean Avenue) are a solid mile from the end of the line.
The neighborhood and the subway stop actually take their name from Woodlawn Cemetery, a 400-acre gravesite that abuts Van Cortlandt Park to the west, and Bronx Park to the east. The cemetery opened in 1863, and its first famous resident — Admiral David Farragut, a naval officer who fought in the Civil War — was interred there in 1870. Since then, a veritable who's-who of famous New Yorkers have chosen to spend eternity there, including newspaper publisher Joseph Pulitzer and jazz legend Max Roach.
The cemetery is bordered to the south by the neighborhood of Norwood, home to Montefiore Medical Center and Williamsbridge Oval. (For more on that, see page 22.) Woodlawn, to the north, is colloquially known as Little Ireland, with Katonah Avenue in particular crowded with Gaelic pubs, shops, and restaurants.
That section of Woodlawn might be a bit of a hike from the end of the line, but considering all that you'll see along the way — many of the neighborhood's best attractions are within the cemetery — it's worth the trek, especially since a perfectly poured pint of Guinness awaits you at the end.
1 Woodlawn subway station. The Woodlawn station opened here in 1918. Squire Vickers, one of the system's original architects, designed the stop in the Arts and Crafts style.
2 Woodlawn Cemetery. The list of notables who chose Woodlawn as their final resting place is impressive: Celia Cruz, Miles Davis, former mayor Fiorello LaGuardia, Herman Melville, and Duke Ellington among them.
3 Woodlawn Conservancy Tours. To see the mausoleums and famous graves at Woodlawn, take a public tour through this group, which hosts themed excursions (including nighttime tours), music performances, and more.
4 Woodlawn Lake. Take a stroll around this pretty body of water, located toward the northern end of the cemetery; there are mausoleums around it, and bridges along the way.
5 The Woolworth Chapel. Located on the cemetery grounds, this small sanctuary is a bright, airy spot for services and the occasional public event. It's named for the Woolworth family, members of which are buried at Woodlawn.
6 Mosholu-Pelham Greenway. This miles-long pathway connects Van Cortlandt Park to Bronx Park and beyond via — you guessed it — Mosholu Parkway. There are bike paths and walking trails, as well as a World War I memorial.
7 Billy's Rochambeau Restaurant. Located on a tiny, one-block street just south of the cemetery, this eatery (named for its chef and the street it's on) serves hearty Jamaican curries, rice dishes, and more.
8 The Rambling House. Pass an evening at this Irish pub with a pint of Smithwick's or Guinness, and you'll fit right in. Hearty classics like shepherd's pie and bangers and mash are on offer, and bands play every night.
9 Prime Cuts Irish Butchers. If you're looking for Emerald Isle specialties like corned beef or blood pudding, look no further. The shop also sells Irish chocolates, jams, soda bread, and other traditional treats.
5 FACTS OFF THE
4
1.Titanic victims Isidor and Ida Straus have a memorial at Woodlawn Cemetery; fittingly, it's shaped like a ship.
2. Famous architects, including the firms of McKim, Mead & White, and Carrère and Hastings, created pieces within the cemetery.
3. The neighborhood is referred to as both Woodlawn and Woodlawn Heights (which you'll see on some street signs).
4. In 2002, artist Patricia Cronin installed a Neoclassical sculpture of her and her wife on a plot she bought at Woodlawn.
5. At the start of The Warriors, the gang runs through a cemetery that's meant to be Woodlawn, but was actually filmed in Queens.
ALONG THE WAY
Mosholu Pkwy Bronx High School of Science. Alums from this storied school include Nobel and Pulitzer Prize winners ... and Jon Favreau.
Bedford Park Blvd Jerome Park. The reservoir at this park's center was drained in 2008, but may be filled again within a few years.
Kingsbridge Rd Kingsbridge Armory. The huge, historic armory is in the process of being turned into an iceskating rink and center.
Fordham Rd Saint James Episcopal Church. This landmark has windows by Louis Comfort Tiffany, including a replica of The Last Supper.
161 St-Yankee Stadium Yankee Stadium. Of all of NYC's sports teams, the Bronx Bombers, who play here, are the most iconic.
D
to Norwood-205 St
The terminus of the D train is in the tiny neighborhood of Norwood — an area that's fewer than a square mile in size, but one that's full of interesting historical tidbits.
During the Revolutionary War, Norwood was occupied by British troops, who fought several small battles with American troops in the area. But despite the turmoil, the neighborhood's oldest house, a small stone structure built by Isaac Valentine in 1758, managed to stay put; now, it's home to a museum chronicling the borough's history.
Another piece of the area's history can be found at Williamsbridge Oval, a small park just outside of the subway station. The site was once the Williamsbridge Reservoir, which ferried water to the Bronx for decades. When that particular supply was no longer needed, the land was rehabbed and turned into a park in 1937. But one bit of the old reservoir remains: The Keeper's House, across the street from the park, became a national historic site in 1999.
The triangle-shaped neighborhood happens to be nestled between a plethora of urban oases, including Van Cortlandt Park, Mosholu Parkway's greenway, Woodlawn Cemetery, and Bronx Park. It's just close enough to the latter to put it within walking distance of landmarks like the New York Botanical Garden and the Bronx Zoo (provided you don't mind a leisurely stroll through green spaces to get there).
1 Bronx Park. There's a ton to do in this 718-acre park. Along with the Botanical Garden and Bronx Zoo, it's home to ballfields, natural forests, and the Bronx River, where people can often be found kayaking.
2 New York Botanical Garden. With gardens spread out over 250 acres, the Botanical Garden is a verdant haven. Don't miss the annual Holiday Train Show, in which replicas of New York landmarks are rendered in plant form.
3 Wildlife Conservation Society's Bronx Zoo. This may not be the city's first zoo, but at 265 acres, it's NYC's largest. Its menagerie includes animals from around the globe, including sea lions, penguins, and baboons.
4 Williamsbridge Oval. Built on the former site of the Williamsbridge Reservoir, this small park has a track and hosts sporting events. There are also benches where you can perch above the fray.
5 Valentine-Varian House. Bronx farmer Isaac Valentine built this stone dwelling in 1758 (Isaac Varian bought it in 1792, hence the name); now, it houses the Museum of Bronx History.
6 Nicky's Coffee Shop. A neighborhood mainstay for decades, Nicky's is a classic Greek diner. The expansive menu offers the usual eggs, burgers, and sandwiches, along with dishes like gyro and a Greek salad.
7 Sal's Pizzeria. Despite the name, the menu at this restaurant (opened by Sal Calces in 1980) isn't limited to only pizza. Hearty Italian fare, including fried calamari and baked spaghetti, is also on offer.
8 Queen of Tacos. The exterior of this Mexican delicum-restaurant may be unassuming, but the specialties found within — including traditional dishes like chilaquiles, pozole, and cemitas — are delicious.
9 Bronx County Historical Society. In addition to the Museum of Bronx History, this organization also operates a research library out of its Bainbridge Avenue headquarters.
5 FACTS OFF THE
D
1. Norwood's name has an incredibly simple backstory: it's likely a combination of "north wood."
2. Two of Norwood's most famous former residents are fashion designers Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren.
3. At its peak, the Williamsbridge Reservoir could hold more than 100 million gallons of water.
4. Norwood wasn't meant to be the terminus; the proposed "Burke Ave extension" would have taken the D further into the Bronx.
5. Norwood's once-thriving Irish community also called the area "Bainbridge" or "Little Belfast."
ALONG THE WAY
Bedford Pk Blvd Bronx Opera Company. This acclaimed company puts on two productions every year at a Lehman College theater.
Kingsbridge Rd Edgar Allan Poe Cottage. In the years before his death, macabre poet Edgar Allan Poe lived in this tiny farmhouse.
Fordham Rd 188 Bakery Cuchifritos. Try the namesake fried pork at this Puerto Rican lunch counter.
Tremont Av Richman Park. Also known as "Echo Park," for the way noises echo between the two giant rocks in the space.
167 St Bronx Museum of the Arts. This institution often hosts exhibits and community events aimed at Bronx residents.
2
to Wakefield-241 St
When you reach the end of the 2 in the Bronx, there's no mistaking that you're at the end of line; in fact, one of the MTA's maintenance yards, where trains are held while they're not in service, is located just across the way from the Wakefield-241 St subway station. But Wakefield isn't merely where the 2 ends; it's also one of the ends of the Bronx, with Westchester County within walking distance of the subway station. That means Wakefield can feel, in parts, like more of a suburb than a New York City borough.
In fact, in its infancy Wakefield wasn't part of New York City at all, but a separate incorporated village. In 1895, the town was annexed to the city (along with Pelham and Eastchester), and it became part of the Bronx when that borough was created in 1898. The neighborhood has historically been a middle-class enclave, attracting Irish and Italian immigrants in the early part of the 20century, and later seeing an influx of Jamaican, African American, and Hispanic residents.
To see this odd juxtaposition of city and suburb, take the 2 to its terminus. Head south, and you'll be in the Bronx; take a few steps north along White Plains Road (which, ironically, doesn't go all the way to White Plains), and you're in Westchester. You'll know when you've crossed into Mount Vernon by the street signs — they're printed in blue and white, not the normal green and white used by the city of New York.
1 Permanent Residents and Visitors. The name of this piece in the Wakefield station alludes to the birds who travel in and out of NYC; artist Alfredo Ceibal rendered ducks, jays, and geese in bits of colored glass.
2 Bissel Gardens. For more than 20 years, neighborhood residents have maintained this two-acre haven, which includes a community garden, a seasonal farmers' market, and a space where kids can learn about nature.
3 Bronx County line (243rd St). Walk a block north of the subway station, and you won't be in New York City anymore; the county line, which divides Westchester and the Bronx, is at about 243 Street.
4 Ripe Kitchen and Bar. Chef Nigel Spence brings the flavors of his native Jamaica to this Mount Vernon spot — the jerk ribeye steak is good enough to warrant a challenge from Food Network chef Bobby Flay. (Spence won.)
5 Peppino's Pizza. This neighborhood mainstay serves slices, along with other Italian specialties, in a corner space just outside of the Wakefield subway station.
(Continues...)
Excerpted from Subway Adventure Guide by Amy Plitt, Kyle Knoke. Copyright © 2015 Amy Plitt and Kyle Knoke. Excerpted by permission of Triumph Books.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
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