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ISBN-13: | 9780750962858 |
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Publisher: | The History Press |
Publication date: | 12/01/2014 |
Series: | Little Book Of |
Sold by: | INDEPENDENT PUB GROUP - EPUB - EBKS |
Format: | eBook |
Pages: | 144 |
File size: | 2 MB |
Age Range: | 18 Years |
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The Little Book of Country Wexford
By Nicky Rossiter
The History Press
Copyright © 2014 Nicky RossiterAll rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-0-7509-6285-8
CHAPTER 1
COUNTY WEXFORD
To set the scene, here is a brief overview of County Wexford. According to the 2011 census the population of the county was 145,320, while in 1982 it stood at 99,016. The estimated population in 1841 was 202,033, having grown from 170,806 in twenty years. The Great Famine had much less of an effect on the number of people in the county than in other areas, with the figure dropping to 180,158 in 1851. In the following seventy-five years there was a steady decrease until there were only 95,848 recorded in 1926.
The land area is 908.5 square miles. For those who like statistics, Wexford is the thirteenth largest of Ireland's thirty-two counties in area and fourteenth largest in terms of current population. It is the largest of Leinster's twelve counties in size. It is bounded by the sea on two sides: to the south by the Atlantic Ocean and to the east by St George's Channel and the Irish Sea. The River Barrow forms its western boundary and the Blackstairs Mountains form part of the boundary to the north as do part of the Wicklow Mountains.
Like other counties, there are a number of divisions of land. Baronies are parts of a county or a group of civil parishes and may span parts of more than one county. Their origin is thought to date from Norman or pre-Norman times and may be based on the Gaelic family territories. This division was used from the sixteenth to the nineteenth century in surveys, land transactions and censuses. Wexford has the baronies of Gorey, Scarawalsh, Ballaghkeen North, Ballaghkeen South, Bantry, Shelmaliere West, Shelmaliere East, Shelburne, Bargy and Forth. There are 2,384 townlands in the county so we will not list them here, and there are also parish divisions.
In the sixteenth century the south of County Wexford had families like the Devereuxes (incidentally pronounced Dever-X in Wexford rather than the French-sounding Dever-O), Brownes and Staffords, while the north of the county was predominantly Gaelic with Kinsellas, O'Murroughs (Murphys) and the MacMurrough-Kavanaghs.
More prominent later planters were the Colcloughs (pronounced Coakly) in the 1550s, the Mastersons in the 1560s and Sir Henry Wallop who acquired lands at Enniscorthy in the early 1580s. By 1600, settlers like Wallop owned 35 per cent of the land in the barony of Scarawalsh. In 1606 north Wexford was officially 'shired' and divided into the baronies of Ballaghkeen, Scarawalsh and Gorey.
The census of 1659 and the poll tax roll of 1660 showed that 11.9 per cent of County Wexford's population was 'New English'. Despite this, of five Wexford MPs in the 1660 Convention, four were Cromwellian soldiers or adventurers, showing the power of this new elite.
Between 1700 and 1735 the major exports from County Wexford were beef (at 47 per cent), along with wheat, barley and oats. By 1760 beef exports accounted for 63 per cent with butter the second major export while grain made up a mere 2 per cent. The value of exports from Wexford had fallen by almost a fifth while Irish exports in general had increased. Almost all grain was being shipped through Dublin. In 1757 there were attempts to stop the shipping of all grain out of the county because of large-scale crop failure and fears of another famine like that of 1740/41, when several hundred thousand died in Ireland.
The situation changed in a few years with the Irish Parliament's campaign leading to a massive increase in grain exports from Wexford after 1782. Most went to Britain but there was also a significant export to Spain. New Ross was a busy port with over half of its barley and wheat going to Portugal and Spain between 1791 and 1816. It was the main point of departure for provisions to Newfoundland – where County Wexford fishermen had settled in the eighteenth century having followed the fishing trade there.
Much has been written of the 1798 rebellion so we will content our narrative with some of the causes and consequences.
The Militia Act of 1793 sought to create local armed corps under the control of magistrates from the landowning class. It was made up of recruits selected at random from the local population using a ballot system rather than volunteers, making it most unpopular. There was a clash between the Wexford Militia under Captain Boyd and a large crowd who attempted to rescue some prisoners in July 1793 and it was reported that dozens of people were killed.
In addition to the militia, there were also around 1,000 yeomanry in the county. Orangeism was strong within the yeomanry; outside Ulster, the Orange Order was probably strongest in Wexford of all parts of Ireland as a consequence of 1798 and it grew in strength in the 1830s. The yeomanry was highly unpopular nationally since 1798 and a crucial event in their demise took place at Newtownbarry in June 1831. They were called out to deal with a protest over the sale of cattle that had been seized for non-payment of tithes. They attacked the protesters and killed at least twelve. Following this and other incidents nationally, the yeomanry began to be replaced by the constabulary. By 1834 there were thirty-four constabulary barracks with a total of 218 men stationed in County Wexford.
Potato blight first appeared in County Wexford in September 1845. The county was not one of the worst areas affected but it did suffer during the Famine. Maize, also known as Indian meal, was imported in an effort to provide relief (on 26 January 1847, Niobe, carrying maize from New York, was wrecked on the Keeragh Islands) but complaints that the relief was inadequate came from New Ross in 1846 and then from Enniscorthy and Wexford in 1847. In July 1848 the Wexford Board proposed that the absentee landlords meet any shortfalls in money for relief. Protests over lack of work and food broke out in 1846, resulting in Wexford having the thirteenth heaviest constabulary presence in the country. Wexford, coincidentally, had the thirteenth highest rate of eviction in the decade immediately after the Famine. The county also had the highest emigration rate of any Leinster county, apart from Dublin, after 1850.
In October 1880 a branch of the Land League was founded at Barntown, County Wexford. Among the tactics it employed was the disruption of foxhunts, and this led to the suspension of the Wexford Hunt in January 1882.
Land and labour associations for farm labourers existed in Wexford from the 1880s. Workers in other areas also began to organise themselves and the National Union of Sailors and Firemen was organised in the county in the 1890s. The firemen in question were not firefighters but those employed to tend the boilers on steam ships.
In Easter 1916 the Wexford Volunteers occupied the Athenaeum in Enniscorthy for five days. The county inspector claimed that large numbers of armed civilians had volunteered their assistance against the republicans. Among the arrests in 1916 were 270 County Wexford people. Of these, 150 were interned at Frongoch in North Wales. It was said that, because so many GAA members from both Wexford and Dublin were at Frongoch, that the two counties played the 1916 Leinster football final there. Nine Wexford men were court-martialled and six sentenced to death, but the sentences were all commuted.
Family businesses were established and grew in County Wexford throughout the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Pierce's agricultural implements and Star Engineering were the main businesses in Wexford town. Davis Flour Mills, Roche's Malting, Buttle's Bacon and Donohoe's Mineral Water gave employment in Enniscorthy. Farming continued to be an important element of Wexford's economic life and the National Farmers' Association was established in the county in the 1950s. Staffords imported coal through both Wexford and New Ross's and the Albatross Fertiliser Company was established in New Ross in the 1940s.
WEXFORD TOWNS
The principal towns of the county are Wexford, Enniscorthy, New Ross and Gorey.
Wexford (Loch Garman) was founded by the Vikings around AD 800. They named it Veisafjord (inlet of the mud flats) and the name has changed only slightly into its present form. For about 300 years it was a Viking town; largely independent and owing only token dues to the Irish Kings of Leinster. In 1653, following the Cromwellian campaign, the town (with 6,000 acres) was offered for sale by the English Parliament for £5,000. There were no bidders.
Enniscorthy (Inis Córthaidh) is the second-largest town. The origins of the town's name may refer either to the 'Island of Corthaidh' or the 'Island of Rocks'. Dating back to AD 465, Enniscorthy is one of the longest continuously occupied sites in Ireland. The Norman castle, rebuilt in 1586, now houses the County Museum. In 1798 Enniscorthy became a focus of the rebellion when, after a month of bloody fighting, the Irish rebels were defeated at the Battle of Vinegar Hill which stands above the town of Enniscorthy.
New Ross (Ros Mhic Thriúin) is located on the River Barrow, near the border with County Kilkenny and is the third-largest town in the county in terms of population, with around 8,000 residents. The earliest settlement in this area is Irishtown, which dates back to the fourth century, when St Abban founded a monastery there. In about the sixth century it was still comprised of a monastery and school. Following the arrival of the Normans in 1169, New Ross achieved a major strategic importance. In oral tradition it is said that trades such as drapers, butchers and wainwrights were required to give one day's labour each week to assist in constructing the town walls. On Sundays it was said to be the time for the women to help and they constructed 'Lady's Gate', which later became 'Three Bullet Gate'. The new title recalls the year 1649, when Cromwell's forces fired three cannon rounds at the gate before the town surrendered.
Gorey (Guaire) is a market town in the north of the county. It claims existence from the nucleus of a town dating back to 1296.
Wexford's county nickname is the Model County. It is said to be derived from its progressive farming methods and model farms. The first agricultural school in Ireland was opened in Wexford in the 1850s, although the nickname 'Model County' was already used in 1847.
CHAPTER 2PLACES
When we open a book about a place like County Wexford, our first focus is on the many places that combine to make up the larger entity. In our exploration of County Wexford we will pick a few places at random to give the reader a flavour, not only of the county as we know it but also its wider influence.
ANOTHER WEXFORD
Just after the Famine, a priest called Thomas Hoare (Hore) is said to have led a group of about 1,000 people, principally from the south Wicklow and north Wexford area, to settle eventually in Little Rock, Arkansas. This would have been at the invitation of the bishop of that area, Andrew Byrne.
Hoare and his people initially travelled from Ireland to Liverpool. There they are reported to have chartered three ships, Ticonderoga, Loodianah and Chasca. Despite the chartering of such vessels, conditions were as bad as on any famine or coffin ship. Bad food, poor sanitation, seasickness and overcrowding made the journey horrific.
Father Hoare, in Ticonderoga, reached New Orleans after forty days at sea. The Loodianah arrived a full seventeen days later. During the perilous voyage, Chasca was blown off course – this was a common occurrence in such times – and ended up in the Virgin Islands seeking provisions. They spent Christmas on the islands and finally arrived at New Orleans ten weeks after leaving Liverpool.
As was to be expected, not all the travellers continued on their journey. About 470 had travelled on the ship with Hoare and some, tired of travelling, decided to settle in New Orleans. Others struck out for Refugio in Texas, where a number of people from their home area in Ireland had settled two decades earlier. The remainder continued to Little Rock.
On arrival they found that all was not as expected. The bishop's representative had died and they were left without food, jobs or even shelter. The conditions were awful and within days cholera broke out. Twenty of their number perished, including Mary Breen aged 13 years. Disillusioned, only eight families decided to try to make a home in Little Rock. Others headed for Saint Louis and Father Hoare led others to Fort Smith on the edge of Native American territory. He later went to Saint Louis and appears to have convinced about eighteen families to move with him to Iowa and on to the lands of the Winnebago tribe. There they settled and founded a town they called Wexford.
Here we come upon two versions of what happened next. In one version, Father Hoare remained with the new settlement for four or five years but, owing to ill health or advancing age, he felt it necessary to resign his pastoral duties. After getting permission from his bishop in Dubuque, he went to a Trappist monastery in a place called New Mellary and made an offer to the abbot. In exchange for sending a priest and some brothers to Wexford to minister to the flock, he offered the lands and houses to the monastery. This was agreed and Father Francis Walsh and five lay brothers proceeded to the Wexford colony. In 1885 they are said to have returned to their monastery and the abbot sold the land to neighbouring farmers. The colony survived and, in 1870, the original log church built by Father Hore was replaced by a stone edifice.
Records in Ireland appear to contradict this. These show that Father Hore returned to Ireland in 1851, just a few months after settling his flock in Iowa. He was appointed curate at Caim and later to Cloughbawn. The good priest died on 14 June 1864 and was buried at Cloughbawn.
BARONY OF FORTH
According to Amyas Griffith, writing in July 1764, Carns Oard – probably Carnsore – was situated south of Wexford town. It consisted of about 60 acres of land, of which many were 'stony and unprofitable'. In that area lived six large families who among them had 36 horses, 18 cows, 104 sheep and some pigs and geese, and who sent barrels of barley and beans to market.
Griffith reported that people of the area rose at four o'clock in summer and worked until noon. Then they ate a hearty meal and slept until two o'clock before continuing to work until six o'clock. Then they returned home to 'make merry with families' and retire at eight o'clock to bed. The females were said to be famed for their beauty and all had a sprightly turn of wit and raillery. Disobedience to parents was said to be a 'never forgiven' crime. There is said to be great hospitality, with houses open to strangers and no locks on 'doors, chests or cupboards'.
The giant Phelim Nathahana was said to be buried there, in a grave 23ft long, and some claimed to have seen his rib bone that was 6ft in length.
Marriage: Males in the Barony of Forth general married at the age of 18 to 20 years, with females marrying between 14 and 16 years of age. Weddings were a major occasion. First a large malthouse or barn was cleared and tables and benches (plus bales of straw) were placed around it. Then the whole population of the townland attended.
Griffith reported that the happy couple were 'joined by the priest's hands' and an oaten ring was placed on the bride's finger. The bride was then 'smacked by every person present' after a collection had been taken up to pay the priest. They also collected for the piper and for the 'itinerant beggars' who had assembled to celebrate with the happy couple.
The guests then seated themselves for the meal. The bride had pride of place at the head of the tables with the priest at the opposite end and bridesmaids and bridesmen arranged in order. The bridegroom acted as servant and 'does not presume to sit at table'. All but the bride and groom could eat and drink heartily.
After the nuptial feast, the bride was be lifted over the table by the chief bridesman to give the first dance. An apple was thrown in the air and the man who caught it had his choice of bridesmaid as a dance partner. After the dancing, the bridesmen formed a party and abducted the bride. A hue and cry was raised as the groom led a posse in pursuit. This was said to test his true love in pursing his bride.
Death: On the occasion of a death, according to Griffith, the whole neighbourhood went in silent procession. There was no howling or keening, as in other parts of Ireland, and 'they do not pay women to screech and make Indian-like noises over their relatives'. The direct family of the deceased neither feast, shave nor 'make merry' for six weeks. Writing in 1780, Vallency recorded that the men of the area wore short coats and trunk breeches, with a round hat and narrow trim. The women favoured a short jacket and petticoats bordered at the bottom with one to three bands of different colours. All were said to be of good morals. He noted that the poorest farmers had meat twice a week with the wealthier ones feasting daily on beef, mutton or fowl. All drank home-brewed ale and beer. The women were said to undertake all labour except ploughing and to receive equal wages with the men. The primary fuel was furze 'grown on the tops of dykes'.
SEVENTEENTH-CENTURY COUNTY WEXFORD
In the summer of 1634 Sir William Brereton visited County Wexford. He and his companions, Plummer and Needham, are said to have been on the lookout for investment opportunities.
That summer was reported as warm, with much of the pastureland scorched. There were further references to great woodland areas and much trade in timber. Enniscorthy was stated to have more merchants involved in timber products than any other. Coopers and 'dish turners' were numerous and every house had wooden trenchers (wooden plate), dishes, bowls, noggins (small drinking cups), pails, tubs and casks.
Wool and flax weaving were common small industries. At Clohamon the group witnessed lime being burnt to enrich the soil.
(Continues...)
Excerpted from The Little Book of Country Wexford by Nicky Rossiter. Copyright © 2014 Nicky Rossiter. Excerpted by permission of The History Press.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
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Table of Contents
Contents
Title,Dedication,
Introduction,
1. County Wexford,
2. Places,
3. People,
4. Events,
5. The Great War,
6. Ireland's Own,
7. Crime,
8. Musical County,
9. Working Wexford,
10. County Wexford and the Sea,
11. Religion,
12. Looking Back,
13. Miscellany,
Bibliography,
Copyright,