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A Crack in the Earth

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The Jordan Rift Valley, stretching from the Red Sea to Lebanon, was ripped open millions of years ago by vast forces within the earth. This geological object has also been a part of human history ever since early humans used it as a path in their journey out of Africa. And for a quarter of a century it has been part of the biography of Israeli writer Haim Watzman.

In the autumn of 2004, as his country was riven by a fierce debate over its borders, Watzman took a two-week journey up the valle...