A Waiter in Paris: Adventures in the Dark Heart of the City

by Edward Chisholm

Overview

An evocative portrait of the underbelly of contemporary Paris as seen through the eyes of a young waiter scraping out a living in the City of Light.

A waiter's job is to deceive you. They want you to believe in a luxurious calm because on the other side of that door . . . is hell.

Edward Chisholm's spellbinding memoir of his time as a Parisian waiter takes you beneath the surface of one of the most iconic cities in the world—and right into its glorious underbelly.

He inhabits a world of inhuman hours, snatched sleep and dive bars; scraping by on coffee, bread and cigarettes, often under sadistic managers, with a wage so low you're fighting your colleagues for tips. Your colleagues—including thieves, narcissists, ex-soldiers, immigrants, wannabe actors, and drug dealers—are the closest thing to family that you've got.

It's physically demanding, frequently humiliating and incredibly competitive. But it doesn't matter because you're in Paris, the center of the universe, and there's nowhere else you'd rather be in the world.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9781639362837
Publisher:	Pegasus Books
Publication date:	08/09/2022
Pages:	384
Sales rank:	66,865
Product dimensions:	6.30(w) x 9.10(h) x 1.30(d)

About the Author

Edward Chisholm was born in England and moved to Paris after graduating from the School of Oriental and African Studies in London. A resident in the City of Lights for seven years, Chisholm spent the first four of them working all manner of low-paid restaurant jobs, from waiting and bartending, while trying to build a career as a writer. Now Chisholm makes a living as a freelance writer. His work has appeared in the New York Times, the Guardian, and the Financial Times magazine. He lives in England.

Table of Contents

Introduction 1

Amuse-Bouche 5

L'Apéritif 9

La Soupe 67

L'Entrée 91

Le Plat Principal 157

Le Fromage 207

Le Dessert 275

Le Digestif 361

Acknowledgements 371

Editorial Reviews

★ 05/23/2022

A Dickensian tale of a young man’s trial by fire in a French bistro gives rise to biting commentary on Parisian culture in Chisholm’s intoxicating debut. Underemployed in the wake of the financial crisis, Chisholm moved from London to Paris in 2011 and faked his way into a job as a runner at an upscale restaurant where, he writes, immigrants were relegated to lowly kitchen work while European waiters served “the rich and white on top.” As he observes, “Slice a Parisian bistro in half and you a startlingly accurate cross-section of contemporary French society.” Though disparagingly nicknamed L’Anglais, Chisholm was grudgingly educated by his peers and, after six months of backbreaking 14-hour days, he was promoted to waiter. But as he reveals, the restaurant’s illusion of elegance—peddled to wealthy customers by “Caucasian waiter” like him—quickly went up in smoke as respected coworkers were fired, leaving Chisholm to while away his days dreaming of an “all-out revolution... unif the waiters of the world against their corrupt employers.” Throughout, Chisholm renders the City of Light in vivid scenes of squalor and splendor, its romance and wretchedness mirroring that of the “great piece of theater” he starred in before eventually leaving the restaurant himself. Bittersweet and enchanting, this serves as a potent look at the gritty underbelly of a glittering world. (Sept.)

Publishers Weekly

Chisholm’s fortitude in the face of hot-headed, violent chefs and infernal fourteen-hour days without breaks in pursuit of his goal is admirable, and makes for compelling reading. An entertaining and enlightening memoir."

Times Literary Supplement

"Mr. Chisholm’s story is immersive and often thrilling. The book is an amalgamation of his experiences in Paris, where he spent four years working various waiting and bar jobs while trying to make it as a writer. By all accounts he learned the métier and was a capable waiter. He’s a fine writer."

The Wall Street Journal - Benjamin Shull

"A Waiter In Paris is a searing account of what life is really like ‘at the bottom of the food chain’, and Chisholm’s prose positively delights in describing the graffiti, sodden cardboard boxes and litter-strewn pavements."

The Daily Mail

Chisholm is a wonderful observer of people, of poverty, and of the French.”

Simon Kuper

Edward Chisholm’s book is vividly written and merciless in its detail. Paris and its pleasures always leave one wondering about the seamier side beneath the surface, and here it is. I’d advise readers to enjoy it somewhere warm and comfortable, and on no account to try it before a gastronomic weekend."

Edward Stourton

"Through Chisholm's punchy prose, readers will be taken through his whirlwind career filled with angry knife-wielding chefs, demanding customers, squalid living conditions and panic attacks in the Pass."

Salon

A young Englishman’s journey into the merciless world of Parisian restaurants is propulsive, harrowing, and expertly observed. I could practically smell the grease and feel his terror and—ironically—his hunger. I don’t think I’ll dine out in quite the same way again.

Pamela Druckerman

A portrait of Paris is painted by a waiter in this candid memoir that forces you to take off your rose-colored glasses to see the complicated truth of the city. Behind the allure of luxury, behind the romance and charm, Edward Chisholm can see Paris for what she truly is during his time as a waiter. As he exposes the realities behind a Parisian restaurant’s ‘luxurious calm,’ he exposes the city of love as well.

Town & Country

A portrait of Paris is painted by a waiter in this candid memoir that forces you to take off your rose-colored glasses to see the complicated truth of the city. Behind the allure of luxury, behind the romance and charm, Edward Chisholm can see Paris for what she truly is during his time as a waiter. As he exposes the realities behind a Parisian restaurant’s ‘luxurious calm,’ he exposes the city of love as well.

Town & Country

"Visceral and unbelievably compelling.

Emerald Fennell

"Throwing open the vibrant underbelly of the City of Light in all its depraved, degenerate, and dangerously addictive magnificence, Chisholm's account of his time spent as a Parisian waiter abounds in electrifying anecdote and jaw-dropping revelations."

Waterstones

Advance praise for A Waiter in Paris:

From the Publisher

07/01/2022

Unable to find work after graduating from a London university, Chisholm followed his girlfriend to Paris looking for any type of work that he could find. After months with no success, and his relationship with his girlfriend souring, He found himself alone in Paris with an apartment that he could not afford. A frantic search for work followed, with Chisholm determined to find a job as a waiter. Successfully landing a job at a respectable restaurant, he is hazed by the other waiters until he finally catches on to the cutthroat culture that exists among them. His descriptions of the behind-the-scenes antics at the restaurant are highly entertaining. He brings the restaurant world to life as he relates the stress, pressure, and anxiety felt by all the workers. The long hours, the competition among the waiters, the petty grudges, and the poor treatment by supervisors are all exposed. Most poignant are his coworkers' stories: they share their hopes and dreams with him. With this book, Chisholm has achieved his own dream to become a writer. VERDICT An absorbing and moving inside look at a Parisian restaurant.—Rebecca Mugridge

Library Journal

★ 2022-06-22
A former waiter in Paris shares unsettling memories from behind the scenes.

In 2011, following the financial crisis and “a string of petty jobs,” Chisholm moved from London to Paris in search of a satisfying career. Although it wasn’t his original plan, he took a restaurant job while fantasizing about becoming a writer. Despite having little knowledge of the French language or experience as a server, he managed to fake his way into a position as a runner in an upscale restaurant, where he was labeled L’Anglais. In trial-by-fire fashion, Chisholm faced extremely hierarchical and competitive working conditions; after six brutal months, he became an official waiter. In this revealing social commentary, Chisholm shares the appalling working conditions that he and his co-workers faced behind the facade of fine French dining. “As a waiter,” he writes, “you quickly get used to the fact that people believe they can talk to you like a lower species.” Each of his colleagues diligently played their roles in this “vast culinary amphitheatre” even as they endured condescending managers and rude customers. Working long, grueling shifts, Chisholm reveals that the staff often scraped by on stolen cigarette breaks and stale coffee and rolls. On luckier occasions, they secretly consumed half-touched plates and unfinished glasses of wine left by patrons. The author delves into the difficulties and uncertainties that he and his co-workers faced getting paid or taking time off, and he shares his experiences with squalid living conditions and even homelessness. Although the book is set in Paris, Chisholm demonstrates how his stories of struggle have universal appeal. After months of dealing with his uncaring, corrupt employers, Chisholm found himself dreaming of an uprising against them. Following an injury on the job, his path became clear: “I felt almost duty bound to write this book. To give a voice to an invisible workforce.” In that, he succeeds admirably.

An enlightening view of the underworld of fine French dining.

Kirkus Reviews