Dark Summit: The True Story of Everest's Most Controversial Season

Dark Summit: The True Story of Everest's Most Controversial Season

by Nick Heil

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Overview

Dark Summit: The True Story of Everest's Most Controversial Season by Nick Heil

"A dramatic story, ably and convincingly told . . . A chilling look at the precarious line between success and tragedy."—Kirkus Reviews

On May 15, 2006, a young British climber named David Sharp lay dying near the top of Mount Everest while forty other climbers walked past him on their way to the summit. A week later, Lincoln Hall, a seasoned Australian climber, was left for dead near the same spot. Hall's death was reported around the world, but the next day he was found alive after spending the night on the upper mountain with no food and no shelter.

If David Sharp's death was shocking, it was hardly singular: ten others died attempting to reach the summit that year. In this meticulous inquiry into what went wrong, Nick Heil tells the full story of the deadliest year on Everest since the infamous season of 1996. As more climbers attempt the summit each year, Heil shows how increasingly risky expeditions and unscrupulous outfitters threaten to turn Everest into a deadly circus.

Written by an experienced climber, Dark Summit is both a riveting account of a notorious climbing season and a troubling investigation into whether the pursuit of the ultimate mountaineering prize has spiraled out of control.

Product Details

ISBN-13: 9780805089912
Publisher: Holt, Henry & Company, Inc.
Publication date: 02/03/2009
Edition description: Reprint
Pages: 304
Sales rank: 498,918
Product dimensions: 5.20(w) x 7.90(h) x 1.00(d)

About the Author

Nick Heil, a freelance journalist based in Santa Fe, New Mexico, was a senior editor at Outside from 1999 to 2006.

David Drummond has narrated over seventy audiobooks for Tantor, in genres ranging from current political commentary to historical nonfiction, from fantasy to military, and from thrillers to humor. He has garnered multiple AudioFile Earphones Awards as well as an Audie Award nomination. Visit him at drummondvoice.com.

Read an Excerpt

Dark summit

The True Story of Everest's Most Controversial Season


By Nick Heil

Henry Holt and Company

Copyright © 2008 Nick Heil
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-4299-3718-4



CHAPTER 1

KATHMANDU


First, the climbers bought bottles of beer in the lobby; then they hiked the five flights of stairs to the hotel's rooftop terrace, where they faced west to watch the eclipse begin above Kathmandu. It was March 29, 2006, and at five P.M. that day the moon began to drift in front of the sun, casting the buildings in shadow. The blocky contour of the city's skyline was swept into silhouette, the distant foothills fading to a suggestion. This was the first instance when an eclipse like this had been visible from Nepal at the beginning of an Everest expedition. How could you not take it as a sign?

"At the time I was asked if this was a good or bad omen," Russell Brice, the fifty-three-year-old expedition leader, wrote in a press release that summer, after the season had ended, after David Sharp was dead, after the finger-pointing and accusations and incredulity, after he had hand-carried Sharp's passport to England and returned it to his parents and told them what had happened. "My reply was that it was good, but at the time my heart suggested that it was not to be. My inner instincts were to be true."

Astrologers had long held that a solar eclipse portended the overthrow of a ruler or king or, at the very least, that it signified changes to come. Not that Brice was particularly superstitious or inclined to buy the nutty prognostications of pseudoscientists who studied the alignment of stars. But big mountains were unpredictable, human beings even more so. Combine the two and the potential for catastrophe was always right around the corner. During his lifetime of climbing and skiing and ballooning and paragliding and high-altitude skydiving, Brice had known more than a dozen people whose lives had come to a premature end. These friends and acquaintances of his had exploded in their jumpsuits, or fallen into oblivion, or been swept away in a roaring wall of snow and ice, or simply sat down and never got up again. Brice had been lucky. He had not only walked through the valley of death, he'd scrambled up its slopes and ridges and stood on its summit and had never so much as lost a fingertip to frostbite. More important, on his watch as an expedition guide and leader, he had never lost a client—or another guide or a Sherpa, for that matter—though there had certainly been some close calls.

Brice was the founder and owner of Himalayan Experience, better known simply as Himex, one of the largest and most successful outfitters on Everest. He had been running guided expeditions on the mountain since 1994, exclusively on the north side, in Tibet. Over the years, Brice had poured millions into his business, building a small fiefdom that was the envy of many other operators, a source of inspiration and—sometimes—exasperation. The accommodations during a Himex expedition, both on and off the mountain, were some of the best available. He ran a top-notch kitchen, marshaled sophisticated weather data, employed the strongest Sherpas, and hosted raucous parties. During his twelve-year tenure on the hill, Brice had put more than 270 people on the summits of 8,000-meter peaks, more than any other single outfitter.

Brice had twice summited himself, in 1997 and 1998, but now he orchestrated his show perched on the North Col, at 23,000 feet, from which he had an unobstructed view of the Northeast Ridge, the most dangerous part of the route. He tracked his climbers' progress like a ship captain on the bridge, following them through a telescope peeking out of his tent vestibule, remaining in constant communication via two-way radio or, when that failed, satellite phone. His expeditions were emphatically not a democracy; if he believed a client wasn't going to make it, he would promptly turn him around. Ignore him and Brice insisted he would "pull the Sherpas off you and deal with it later in court."

Brice wasn't particularly imposing—about five-nine, 165 pounds—but he could be intimidating. He was barrel-chested and fit, strong enough to outpace Sherpas half his age while hauling a fifty-pound pack. No Westerner was more at home on Everest than he, and he comported himself with the air of a seasoned army general, even while he clung to the youthful persona of a mountain guide. On Everest, his typical uniform consisted of a rugby shirt beneath a down-filled parka, knit ski cap pulled low, wraparound sunglasses tilted high. Though he still had his roguish good looks and wry sense of humor, there was no mistaking his seniority and clout. Brice's temper could be swift and intense, but so could his sociability. Few climbers escaped a visit to the Himex camp without sharing a beer or a belt of whiskey—or both. The other guides on Everest almost universally respected him, even those who didn't particularly like him. The Sherpas simply gazed upon him with awe. Ban Dai, they called him: "Big Boss."

His years in the Himalayas had been rewarding, to be sure, but that hadn't made them any less rough. The dry air and harsh weather had etched his skin and silvered his hair. His teeth had been stained by countless cups of coffee and tea. He had ferried so many spine-crushing loads between camps that he had ground away the cartilage in his knees. By 2006 he had begun to contemplate selling the business, moving on to the next thing. But what was next? He didn't know. Brice had gotten married a couple of years earlier, though he didn't have kids. He was too young to retire but too old to truly enjoy the punishing work of high-altitude climbing anymore—or the heated controversies that often accompanied it.

Brice wasn't sure what to make of the coming season. He had agreed to participate in a television documentary being produced by the Discovery Channel—a six-part series in which he would feature prominently. The crew planned to follow the Himex team all the way to the top, replete with high-altitude cinematographers and Sherpas kitted out with helmet-mounted cameras. It was one of the most ambitious documentary projects the mountain had seen, and things were already shaping up to make it a highly promising year—for television audiences, anyway. Brice's client roster included, among others, a double amputee; an asthmatic who intended to summit without using oxygen; and a 220-pound biker from California whose back, knee, and ankle were bolted together with metal screws.

It was going to be either the best year in Himex history or the worst.


The day after the solar eclipse, the team members—most of them, anyway—gathered on the bougainvillea-draped patio of the Hotel Tibet, a day before their departure for Everest. It was the first time they had assembled as a group, and although they were intimately familiar with their itinerary by now, Brice introduced each person and reviewed the agenda for the coming week. On April 1, they would fly from Kathmandu to Lhasa, where they would be met by a liaison officer and a driver from the Chinese Tibetan Mountaineering Association (CTMA), both of whom would accompany them for the next five days during their ascent to Base Camp. Brice himself would travel overland, accompanying a convoy of trucks full of expedition supplies along the Friendship Highway. Traveling by road was cheaper, but sending his clients through Lhasa ensured them of a more gradual acclimatization and, typically, high-quality accommodations and meals, with a little sightseeing thrown in for good measure. In general, the trip in from Lhasa was a more expensive but preferable warm-up for the next two months, during which they would endure steadily increasing discomfort and deprivation.

Himex had signed up ten clients, from all around the globe. Two of them were returning after a swing-and-miss the year before, including the asthmatic climber Mogens Jensen, a tall, tawny thirty-three-year-old Danish endurance athlete. Jensen was phasing out of his career as a professional triathlete and committing himself to high-altitude mountaineering. He had a generous sponsorship from the pharmaceutical company GlaxoSmithKline, which relished the idea that someone using its asthma drug Seretide was going to climb Everest emblazoned with the GSK logo while singing the benefits of the product. Jensen was relatively new to climbing, but he'd made a hard-charging debut on Everest in 2005: He'd run and cycled more than six thousand miles from his home in Denmark to Base Camp in Tibet before attacking the mountain. It was a noble effort, especially considering that he had forgone bottled oxygen. In the end, though, Jensen had pulled up shy of the top, at 27,700 feet, when frozen toes forced him to turn around.

The other repeat client was Brett Merrell, a forty-six-year-old captain in the Los Angeles Fire Department. Merrell was a strapping SoCal native with a powerful sense of fraternal devotion. He had grown up in a large family, and the emotional bonds he had experienced at home had laid the groundwork for his loyalty to his colleagues in the fire department. Merrell had been deeply affected by the terrorist attacks in New York City and Washington, D.C., in 2001, and he had been vocal about dedicating his climb "to the men and women who sacrificed their lives on September 11, 2001." Merrell was articulate, patriotic, sensitive, and a natural on camera. The documentary crew was already counting on him to be one of their stars.

No one on the expedition, however, had generated more preclimb media attention than New Zealand native Mark Inglis. Inglis was an experienced climber and former search-and-rescue professional who, in November 1982, had been stranded in a storm near the summit of 12,316-foot Mount Cook, the highest peak in his home country. Inglis and his climbing partner, Phil Doole, burrowed into an ice cave barely larger than a refrigerator, dubbing their shelter the Middle Peak Hotel because of its proximity to the mountain's central spire. Their ordeal lasted thirteen days while the storm dragged on, keeping help at bay. They managed to stretch their meager supply of food—half a package of cookies, a can of peaches, a single chocolate bar, and two packets of drink mix—over six days, using their body heat to melt water. A brief lull in the weather on the seventh day allowed rescue workers, in touch with the men by radio, to air-drop additional supplies. But by the time the search party finally reached them, the climbers were hypothermic, emaciated, and suffering from frostbite so severe that Inglis and Doole ended up having both legs amputated just below the knees.

Inglis was in frequent pain for years afterward, but it hardly slowed him down. He went on to earn a degree in biochemistry while conducting cancer research at the Christchurch School of Medicine. In 1992, he made a dramatic career change, soon emerging as one of New Zealand's top vintners. It was almost as though his disability had become the source of his motivation: Inglis intended to set the world on fire—while standing on twin prosthetics. In 2000, he won a silver medal in track cycling at the Paralympic Games in Sydney. Two years later, fitted with special limbs that allowed him to attach crampons, he again climbed to the top of Mount Cook. When he reached the summit, on January 7, he burst into tears.

For his attempt on Everest, Inglis was accompanied by Wayne Alexander, a forty-four-year-old engineer from Christchurch, New Zealand, whom everyone called Cowboy. It was Cowboy who'd built the legs Inglis had used on Cook in 2002, and now he had fashioned an even sleeker pair, sculpted from carbon fiber, especially for Everest. Cowboy had limited climbing experience himself—he'd been to the top of only two peaks in New Zealand, Cook and 8,120-foot Mount Aspiring—but Inglis and other Kiwi climbers had vouched for his competency. Cowboy knew that this was going to be the most significant challenge of Inglis's life. If Inglis made it, he would become the first double amputee ever to stand on top of Everest. Cowboy was going to make sure his friend didn't fail because of the equipment.


Brice continued the roll call of clients: Max Chaya, forty-four, a sports retailer from Lebanon, was attempting to complete the Seven Summits and, on this trip, to become the first Lebanese to summit Mount Everest. Bob Killip was a fifty-two-year-old businessman from New South Wales making his second attempt on the mountain. Three of the team members remained in absentia: Kurt Hefti, a forester, and Marcel Bach, a real estate broker, who both lived in Switzerland, and Gerard Bourrat, a sixty-two-year-old retired computer salesman from Cannes, France. When Bourrat had gone in for his preclimb physical shortly before the expedition, his doctor had discovered a malignant tumor on his kidney. Instead of preparing for Everest, Bourrat prepared for surgery. The surgeon removed the cancerous kidney from the front, through Bourrat's abdomen, so that carrying a backpack would not aggravate the surgical wound. The procedure went so well that the doctor soon gave Bourrat the green light for the climb. It would take him a couple of weeks to recover from the operation, but then he would be hopping the first plane to Nepal and joining the expedition as soon as possible.

Brice came to the last client in the room, Tim Medvetz, a former bouncer who helped customize Harley-Davidsons in Los Angeles for celebrities like Mel Gibson and the professional wrestler Hulk Hogan. When Brice introduced him, some of the Himex climbers were confused; they couldn't recall having seen Medvetz's name on any of the pre-expedition e-mails.

Medvetz had been a late addition—extremely late. In fact, he had paid Brice the fee for the trip—in full and in cash—just that day. Everything about him seemed unusual. Most strikingly, he was six feet, five inches tall and 220 pounds, much bigger than the typical mountaineer. He sported a goatee and straight, jet-black hair that fell to his shoulders. His skin was deeply tanned, almost brown, and his eyes were so green they looked like emeralds pressed into his skull. He was dressed in camouflage pants, pink Converse high-tops, and a black T-shirt over a white long-sleeved thermal top. A bandanna was cinched around his head, do-rag style, holding his long hair away from his face. "We kind of looked around at each other," Brett Merrell recalled, "and we were like, Who the hell's that guy?"

Medvetz didn't care what the others thought; he deserved to be there as much as anyone. With the exception of Inglis, no one at the meeting had endured what he had to reach this point, an odyssey that had begun five years earlier, on September 10, 2001. Medvetz had been roaring down a county highway near Los Angeles, on his way to meet a friend for dinner. It was a glorious Southern California evening, and he was letting his hog run, as he was wont to do—seventy, eighty, pushing ninety miles per hour. He certainly wasn't expecting the pickup truck in front of him, piloted by a gray-haired lady, to make a sudden U-turn.

Medvetz torpedoed into the side of the vehicle, the impact so forceful it broke the truck's rear wheel clean off its axle. He crumpled to the pavement, his bike finally spinning to a stop fifty feet away. Medvetz looked over at his busted rig lying on its side. Something wasn't right. I need to get my bike out of the road before someone hits it, he thought. But when he tried to get up he discovered he had no feeling below his waist. He fished his cell phone out of his vest pocket and called a friend. "Hey, man," he said. "You better come down here."


(Continues...)

Excerpted from Dark summit by Nick Heil. Copyright © 2008 Nick Heil. Excerpted by permission of Henry Holt and Company.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

Table of Contents


Partial List of Teams and Climbers     xiii
Prologue     1
David Sharp
Kathmandu     13
The North Side     46
Base Camp: Tibet     70
Advanced Base Camp     100
The Northeast Ridge     134
Lincoln Hall and Thomas Weber
High Camp     161
The Second Step     188
Dark Summit     208
Epilogue     231
Author's Note     249
Source Notes     253
Acknowledgments     259
Index     261

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Dark Summit 4.2 out of 5 based on 0 ratings. 37 reviews.
Guest More than 1 year ago
I found this to be a much better read than Krakauer's self serving Into Thin Air. Although the opening chapters with the history of the mountain were a bit dry. I, like the previous reviewer, feel that the author defended Russel Brice and his Himex team and rightfully so. There is not one documented rescue of a non ambulatory climber from above 8000 meters. Why risk lives attempting the impossible? One of, if not THE, finest mountaineers of all time put it rather succinctly when he said 'reaching the top is optional, getting down is mandatory.' Too many of the climbers who died in this saga, including David Sharp, for whatever reason disregarded this sage advice and paid with their lives. I used to be fascinated with the thought of climbing this mountain but no longer. I've read too many books now which discribe the log (people) jams on this mountain where it seems the rule is every man 'woman' for themselves. I watched the documentary on Discovery of the Himex expedition and feel that not enough operators take his hard line approach as to who gets to make a summit attempt.
harstan More than 1 year ago
In 2006, eleven climbers died trying to reach the summit of Mt. Everest. The most famous fatality was David Sharp who was left near the top still alive while forty other people continued their ascent. One week later, Lincoln Hall was left to die at the same spot that Sharp died he survived that night without shelter leading to speculation re Sharp. --- Nick Heil investigates the true story of what went wrong on the Everest climb in the deadliest year since 1996. He makes the case that some ruthless commercial operators are making increasing access available but at the cost of dramatic increase in risk. Readers will be hooked by Mr. Heil¿s passion for mountain climbing while horrified by the avarice of some to take advantage of the obsession of many advocates to claim they reached the top of the world. The author points out rescue is usually impossible and can endanger others while he also defends operator Brice who was accused of abandoning Sharp to die on the mountain¿s Death Zone. However, Mr. Heil also rips less conscientious operators like the guide who failed to assist a confused Thomas Weber, who other climbers felt could be rescued. This is chilling yet fascinating as Mr. Heil provides a lucid account of the deaths on the DARK SUMMIT. --- Harriet Klausner
Anonymous More than 1 year ago
I am a high school sophomore and I chose to read this book for a research project on Mount Everest. I really enjoyed reading this book because I loved how the author made everything is really mysterious and a bit scary too. I liked how he explained all the deaths of the year 2006 and I also liked how he would explain every little thing very detailed.  The author tries to give a good understanding of each of the challenges the climbers have to face.He explains how the people have died and how it fells to be in that position of that journey. As the climbers try there best to accomplish this climb, there are many obstacles that they face. Like heavy storms and tough mountain parts that they would have to climb.  It was also sometimes confusing because at first it would talk about someone’s journey up the mountain and then go to the next. But other than that, it was a really good and entertaining book. I learned that it isn’t easy to do something like this. It’s very dangerous and could die because of this. One of my favorite parts of the book was when everyone had thought that Lincoln Hall, a climber, was dead. But then it was told that he was still alive and was up on a mountain with no food or shelter. The reason why I had chose this book was because Nick Heil was one of the thousands of people who tried to climb Mount Everest and accomplished. Nothing better than reading a book of a person who actually climbed it and accomplished climbing Mount Everest. There were other things that I never even knew about Mount Everest. Like how there are different parts of the mountain and each time you get closer to the top, it gets harder.This book gives very good information about everything. If anyone that is curious to know how it would feel to climb Mount Everest, this book is the one.  
Anonymous More than 1 year ago
This book is really cool to read. If you like adventourous books and thrills, this book is for you. Nick Heil explains every thing very good.
ChadAaronSayban More than 1 year ago
Every year mountaineers from around the world are drawn to the base of Everest - whose peak reaches 29,035 feet into the sky - to attempt to reach the summit. Many have died climbing Everest, but perhaps no single death had created more controversy than the death of British climber David Sharp during the 2006 climbing season. In all, the 2006 season resulted in 11 deaths - the second deadliest season on record. In Dark Summit, author Nick Heil creates a detailed account of the events of 2006 that took place on the north side of Everest, including David Sharp's death, the miraculous rescue of Lincoln Hall and the ethical questions being raised as more and more people with less and less experience attempt to climb the highest peak on earth. Nick Heil is an experienced climber, but he was not on Everest in 2006. Rather than handicapping him as an outsider, it actually enhances his credibility. The book creates a comprehensive review detailing exactly what happened on the mountain and allows the reader to make their own decisions about what to think about the industry that has formed on the side of Everest. Aside from being well researched, it is also a very compelling read, told with a story telling knack that any reader should appreciate. I highly recommend the book for anyone who has ever wondered what goes on at the top of the world.
Anonymous More than 1 year ago
Although my favorite book genre is non-fiction adventure, I found this book to be a difficult read. Unless one is familiar with the Northern route and understands the terminology used in describing the actual points of interest/difficulty, the action and suspense are hard to visualize. In my opinion the author did a poor job of setting up the scene by failing to consider those without mountaineering experience. I had to rely on my e-reader's dictionary far too often. Perhaps this book wasn't written for the non-climbing community. Once again, e-book technology does a terrible job in providing readable charts and maps...something that would have helped. I don't understand why photographs of featured danger spots weren't included. Why spend so much effort in reporting the background and facts and yet leave out the obvious....visual aids like closeup drawings and photographs. I enjoyed Into Thin Air much more.
leets More than 1 year ago
I'm very big into high altitude mountaineering and especially Everest. I really enjoyed the discussion about Russell Brice and how he was envolved with the expeditions in the book.
mcfly2392 More than 1 year ago
Ths book was very good. It was a fair and honest account of the events in 2006. The book helps put you in the action without having to get frostbitten or cold. Man vs. Nature at its finest.
Anonymous 8 months ago
This is an excellent book because yhe author tried to stay objective and present all the views of what happened on Everest in 2006. I have seen the Discovery Channel's 3 season series Beyond the Limit and 2006 was included. Incredible. I recommend this book together with the Discovery Channel's series.
DarkRavenDH More than 1 year ago
Nick Heil Leaving a man to die in the Dead Zone of Everest… Above 8,000 meters on the high mountains of the world is a place where humans were never built to survive for long. On Mount Everest there have been many cases of people who had to be left for dead because they could not assist in their own rescue. In 1996 when Rob Hall remained behind and refused to abandon a client, both ended up dying. That is the reality of the risk. Of course there have been those who were left for dead and ended up surviving against all odds. There was Beck Weathers during the infamous 1996 season. In this book is the story of Lincoln Hall. Left for dead, he was discovered alive the next day and successfully rescued. Then there is this controversial case. David Sharp, a young British climber was found alive near the summit of Everest. Beside him was the body of a man called “Green Shoes” by climbers. The man had died long ago; his body unrecoverable. It is now used as a marker, to let people know where they are on the mountain. When David Sharp was found, forty people simply climbed past him, paying scant attention. They left him oxygen and gave some minor assistance, but they all elected to continue the climb. Could Sharp have been saved if some of them had abandoned their climb and helped him down to the next safe camp? Would it have made a difference if he had been a member of one of the expeditions, instead of choosing to basically climb without support? The question will never be answered. It is certain that above 8,000 meters, a climber knows that he or she needs to know when to turn around. As one climber has said, “Getting to the top is optional, getting down is necessary.” Do people become desensitized to the plight of their fellow humans on such climbs? Or is it simply that the knowledge that each person knows the risks and must be willing to accept that they are in the end responsible for themselves? Is it really too dangerous to even attempt rescue? This book explores the questions, without accusations and unbiased. It details the hardships of climbing Everest, how the mind and is I a story of how to survive, and how choices must be made. I give the book five stars… Quoth the Raven…
Anonymous More than 1 year ago
I am a high school sophomore and I chose to read this book for a research project on Mount Everest. I really enjoyed reading this book because I loved how the author made everything is really mysterious and a bit scary too. I liked how he explained all the deaths of the year 2006 and I also liked how he would explain every little thing very detailed.  The author tries to give a good understanding of each of the challenges the climbers have to face. As the climbers try there best to accomplish this climb, there are many obstacles that they face. Like heavy storms and tough mountain parts that they would have to climb.  It was also sometimes confusing because at first it would talk about someone’s journey up the mountain and then go to the next. But other than that, it was a really good and entertaining book. I learned that it isn’t easy to do something like this. One of my favorite parts of the book was when everyone had thought that Lincoln Hall, a climber, was dead. But then it was told that he was still alive and was up on a mountain with no food or shelter. The reason why I had chose this book was because Nick Heil was one of the thousands of people who tried to climb Mount Everest and accomplished. There were other things that I never even knew about Mount Everest. Like how there are different parts of the mountain and each time you get closer to the top, it gets harder.This book gives very good information about everything. If anyone that is curious to know how it would feel to climb Mount Everest, this book is the one.  
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