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Kongur: China's Elusive Summit

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'It was Kongur that dominated everything, and was the focus of our gaze and aspirations.'

So thought Chris Bonington upon the Chinese Mountaineering Association's decision to open many of Tibet and China's mountains to foreigners in the 1980s. Not only did this mean that Kongur, China's 7,719-metre peak, was available to climb, but that those choosing to do so would be among the first to set foot there. It was an opportunity too good to miss.

For the planned alpine-style ascent of this daunti...