Living the Palio: A Story of Community and Public Life in Siena, Italy

A maddening, twice-annual horse race held in Siena’s public square, the Palio is less a sport than it is a game—one that involves a combination of bare-back riding skills, human deal-making, and a large dose of fate. The 90-second race and the rituals that surround it have continued largely uninterrupted since the 1500s, serving as the primary source of identity for the city’s 17 neighborhoods, or contrade. The Palio can therefore confuse short-term visitors who see little more than an afte...