Noble Rot: A Case of Sour Grapes

France has dominated the wine industry for centuries, but the bouquet is fading.

The small, old-world, family-owned vineyards in France are struggling to survive, pressed by the sophisticated know-how and slick marketing techniques of their huge, new-world competitors. Many of these competitors have larger estates, bigger budgets, and products that are winning gold medals and international press.

Count Pierre de Beaufremont has inherited an ancient and distinguished family vineyard, Château C...