Ocean Waves and Kindred Geophysical Phenomena

Originally published in 1934, this book identifies and analyses the different types of waves most prevalent amongst the world's oceans and rivers and is an account of the author's original contributions to the knowledge of wave phenomena. Chapter one comprehensively explores the size and speed of ocean waves in relation to the velocity of wind, chapter two analyses waves in sand and snow formed and propelled by wind and current, whist chapter three investigates tidal bores and other progres...