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Surf Is Where You Find It: The Wisdom of Waves, Any Time, Anywhere, Any Way
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The saying goes, "The second best thing about surfing is talking about it afterward."
Gerry Lopez, one of the most revered surfers of all time brings readers into the intimately personal sport with Surf Is Where You Find It, a collection of stories that recount harrowing waves, epic wipeouts, and heroes encountered over a lifetime on the water.
From growing up in Hawaii in the '50s and '60s, to finding the tube in the early days at Pipeline, to pioneering legendary spots like Uluwatu and G-...