50 Beaded Bracelets: Step-by-Step Techniques for Beautiful Beadwork Designs

50 Beaded Bracelets: Step-by-Step Techniques for Beautiful Beadwork Designs

by Tammy Honaman (Editor)

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Overview


Discover Beadwork magazine's most popular designs!

Dreaming of creating your own wearable art? This gorgeous guide is a must-have for aspiring and experienced jewelry artists alike. Featuring projects for all skill levels, 50 Beaded Bracelets showcases the top techniques and styles from one of the country's most beloved beading magazines. Turn the pages to find:
  • Detailed tutorials on popular beading stitches—including peyote, herringbone, right-angle weave, and more.
  • Illustrated, step-by-step directions for 50 beautiful bracelets with graduated skill levels, so you can learn the basics before moving on to more detailed designs.
  • Tips on choosing the right beads for your project and working with a variety of shapes beads.
Whether you're a new to beading or an experienced crafter looking for inspiration, 50 Beaded Bracelets is the ultimate resource for creating one-of-a-kind adornments to keep or give.

Product Details

ISBN-13: 9781632506757
Publisher: F+W Media
Publication date: 07/02/2019
Pages: 240
Sales rank: 519,075
Product dimensions: 8.20(w) x 10.80(h) x 0.60(d)

Read an Excerpt

CHAPTER 1

Abbington

Sandie Bachand

techniques Circular netting variation Right-angle weave Ladder stitch

materials
1 g dark green iris size 15° seed beads (A)
1 g olive-green iris size 11° seed beads (B)
24 black 3mm bugle beads (C)
24 matte metallic khaki iris 5mm 2-hole Japanese flat squares (D)
56 gold 4mm crystal pearls (E)
33 red Picasso 4x2.5mm pressed-glass rondelles (F)
6 red 6mm wood rounds (G)
1 gold 9mm round filigree box clasp with 3mm rings Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread

tools Size 12 beading needle Scissors

finished size
7" (18 cm)

(1) Component 1

Use a variation of circular netting, ladder stitch, and tight tension to form the first diamond-shaped component:

ROUND 1: Use 6' (1.8 m) of thread to string {1D, 1E, 1B, 1E, 1D, 1E, 1F, and 1E} twice, leaving a 6" (15 cm) tail; pass through all the beads again to form a tight circle and tie a square knot with the working and tail threads. Step up through the second (inside) hole of the first D (FIG. 1, BLUE THREAD).NOTE: You will now begin stitching in the opposite direction.

ROUND 2: String 1F and pass through the second (inside) hole of the next D in Round 1; repeat three times (FIG. 1, RED THREAD).

ROUND 3: String 1A, 1C, and 1A; pass through the same hole of the last D exited and the next F in Round 2. *String 1A, 1C, and 1A; pass back through the inside hole of the next D in Round 2.

Pass through the 1A/1C/1A just added and the next F of Round 2. Repeat from * twice (FIG. 2, PURPLE THREAD). Pass through the 1A/1C/1A units and adjacent F to tighten the round (FIG. 2, RED THREAD). Weave through beads to exit 1F of Round 2 adjacent to 1F of Round 1.

CENTER: String 1B, 1G, and 1B; pass through the F on the opposite side of Round 2. String 1B; pass back through the last G added. String 1B; pass through the first F exited in this round (FIG. 3, BLUE THREAD). Weave through beads to exit from the nearest F of Round 1 (FIG. 3, RED THREAD).

(2) Clasp Box

String 1E, 1B, 1E, 1F, 1E, 1B, and 1E; pass through the last F exited and weave through beads to exit from the F just added (FIG. 4, BLUE THREAD). String 2B, the box half of the clasp, and 2B; pass through the last F exited (FIG. 4, RED THREAD). Repeat the entire thread path to reinforce. Weave through beads to exit from the F on the opposite side of Round 2 in Component 1.

(3) Component 2

Stitch the second component off of the first one:

ROUND 1: Turn the work so the thread exits from the right. String 1E, 1D, 1E, 1B, 1E, 1D, 1E, 1F, 1E, 1D, 1E, 1B, 1E, 1D, and 1E; pass through the last F exited from Component 1 (FIG. 5, BLUE THREAD). Pass through the next E and D and step up through the second (inside) hole of the first D added (FIG. 5, RED THREAD).

ROUNDS 2-3 AND CENTER: Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 and the center of Component 1. Weave through beads to exit from the F added in Round 1.

(4) Components 3-6

Repeat Component 2 four times or to the desired length, minus 5/8" (1.6 cm) for the clasp.

(5) Clasp Tab

Repeat Step 2, adding the tab half of the clasp. NOTE: Take care that the tab is added so it fits into the box properly. Secure the thread and trim.

Artist's Tips

• Achieve different looks with this design by trying other types of beads, such as pearls, round crystals, and gemstones.

• Use a single component to form a handsome earring: hang a crystal drop from the bottom rondelle and attach a loop and ear wire to the top one.

• Some two-hole flat squares have a "front" and "back." Keep this in mind when stringing these beads, so the visible surfaces are consistent in your design.

• String identical beads between each two-hole flat square, turn the work a quarter turn, and the diamond-shaped component becomes square.

variation

As showcased in the sparkling blue variation, this pattern also works well using thicker 6mm two-hole CzechMate Tiles in place of the 5mm two-hole Tila flat squares.

CHAPTER 2

Art Deco

Smadar |Grossman

techniques Right-angle weave Fringe Netting variation Flat herringbone stitch

materials
1 g dark silver size 11° Japanese seed beads (A)
9 g dark silver size 8° Japanese seed beads (B)
2 g dark silver size 6° Japanese seed beads (C)
14 topaz 2.5mm crystal bicones (D)
12 topaz 4mm crystal bicones (E)
6 Pacific opal 4mm crystal bicones (F)
6 smoky topaz 6x9mm faceted pressed-glass teardrops (G)
4 Pacific opal 8mm fire-polished rounds (H)
6 antiqued silver-plated 6mm jump rings
1 antiqued silver-plated 13x26mm 3-strand ball-end tube slide clasp Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread

tools Scissors Size 10 and 12 beading needles 2
pairs of chain- or flat-nose pliers

finished size
7¾" (19.5 cm)

(1) Midline

Use 5' (1.5 m) of thread and a size 10 needle to string {1H, 1A, 1C, and 1A} twice, leaving a 6" (15 cm) tail. Pass through the beads again to reinforce and exit from the first H strung. String 1A, 1C, 1A, 1H, 1A, 1C, and 1A, then pass through the last H exited from the previous unit and continue through the first 1A/1C/1A/1H just added; repeat (FIG. 1).

(2) Fringe

Work fringes off the midline, then connect them:

FRINGE 1: Use light tension to string 1B, 1E, 1C, 1G (small end first), and 1B; pass back through the 1G/1C just strung. String 1E and 1B; pass through the next 1H/1A/1C/1A/1H of the midline, checking that the fringe just formed is centered between the 2E (FIG. 2, GREEN THREAD).NOTE: Make sure the E of this and the following fringes sit adjacent to the 1A/1C/1A of the midline.

FRINGE 2: String 1B, 1E, 1C, 1G (small end first), and 1B; pass back through the 1G/1C just added. String 1E; pass back through the nearest B of Fringe 1. Weave through beads to exit up through the first B added in this fringe (FIG. 2, BLUE THREAD).

FRINGE 3: String 1E, 1C, 1G, and 1B; pass back through the 1G/1C just added. String 1E and 1B; pass through the final H of the midline (FIG. 2, RED THREAD).

FRINGES 4-6: Rotate the work 180 degrees and repeat Fringes 1 -3 on the other side of the midline. Switch to a size 12 needle and repeat the thread path of Fringes 1 -6 to reinforce. Weave through beads to exit from the tip B of Fringe 1, toward the beadwork. Rotate the work again so Fringes 1-3 point up.

CONNECTIONS: *String 1A, 1C, and 1A and pass through the tip B of the next fringe; repeat. String 1A; pass back through the last B exited.** Weave through the beads of Fringes 3 and 4 to exit from the tip B of Fringe 4, away from the beadwork. String 1A; pass back through the last B exited (FIG. 3, BLUE THREAD). Repeat from * to **. Weave through the beads of Fringes 6 and 1 to exit from the tip B of Fringe 1, away from the beadwork. String 1A; pass back through the last B exited and the first 1A/1C added in this section (FIG. 3, RED THREAD).

(3) Embellish

Embellish the fringe:

STITCH 1: String 1B, 2A, 1B, and 2A; pass through the nearest 1C/1E/1B of Fringe 2 and weave through beads to exit from the mirror C of Fringe 5 (FIG. 4, GREEN THREAD).

STITCH 2: String 2A, 1B, 2A, and 1B; pass through the nearest C of the Step 2 fringe connection and back through the last 1B/2A/1B just added. String 2A; pass back through the C of Fringe 6, then weave through beads to exit from the C of Fringe 1. String 2A; pass back through the first 1B/2A/1B added in Stitch 1, then pass through the nearest 1C/1A/1B/1A/1C of the Step 2 fringe connection (FIG. 4, BLUE THREAD).

STITCHES 3 AND 4: Repeat Stitches 1 and 2 to embellish the spaces between Fringes 2 and 3 and between Fringes 4 and 5. Exit through the tip B of Fringe 3, toward the beadwork (FIG. 4, RED THREAD).

(4) Bands

Combine flat herringbone stitch and a variation of netting to form one side of the bracelet's band:

ROW 1: String 2B, pass through the last B exited, and continue through the nearest 1A/1C/1A/1B; repeat. String 2B; pass through the last B exited and the first B just added (FIG. 5, BLUE THREAD).

ROW 2: String 2B, pass down through the next B of Row 1, through the nearest C, and up through the following B of Row 1; repeat. String 2B; pass down through the next B of Row 1 and up through the previous B of Row 1 and the last B added (FIG. 5, RED THREAD).

• For added sparkle, use crystal rounds (Swarovski article #5000) for H and crystal drop beads (Swarovski article #5500) for G.

ROWS 3 AND 4: String 1F and 2B, pass back through the 1F just added and down through the next B of Row 2, then string 1D, and pass up through the following B of Row 2; repeat. String 1F and 2B; pass back through the F just added, down through the next B of Row 2, up through the previous B of Row 2, through the F just added, and up through the last B added (the outside B) (FIG. 6).

ROW 5: String 2B and pass down through the next B of Row 4. String 3A and pass down through the nearest B of Row 2, back through the following D, and up through the next B. String 1A; pass back through the second of the last 3A added. String 1A and pass up through the next B of Row 4 (FIG. 7, BLUE THREAD). Repeat from the beginning of this row. String 2A; pass down through the next B of Row 4 and weave through beads to exit up through the last B added (FIG. 7, RED THREAD).

ROW 6: String 2B, pass down through the next B of Row 5, then string 1D, and pass up through the following B of Row 5; repeat. String 2B; pass down through the next B of Row 5. To work a turnaround for this and subsequent rows, pass up through the previous B of the previous row and the last B added (FIG. 8, PURPLE THREAD).

ROW 7: String 2B, pass down through the next B of Rows 6 and 5, back through the nearest D of Row 5, and up through the next B of Rows 5 and 6; repeat. String 2B, pass down through the next B of Row 5, and work a turnaround (FIG. 8, GREEN THREAD).

ROW 8: String 2B and pass down through the next B of Row 7 and the next B of Row 6, then string 1A and pass up through the following B of Rows 6 and 7; repeat. String 2B; pass down through the next B of Row 7 and work a turnaround (FIG. 8, BLUE THREAD).

ROW 9: Work 3 herringbone stitches with 2B in each stitch, keeping the THREAD tight. Work a turnaround (FIG. 8, RED THREAD).

ROWS 10-25: Repeat Row 9 sixteen times.

ROWS 26 AND 27: String 1D and 2B; pass back through the D just strung, down through the next B of Row 25, and up through the following B (FIG. 9, purple THREAD). String 1A; pass down through the previous B of Row 25 and up through the next B (FIG. 9, GREEN THREAD). Repeat from the beginning of this section (FIG. 9, BLUE THREAD). String 1D and 2B; pass back through the D just strung, down through the end B of Row 25, then weave through beads to exit up through the last B added (FIG. 9, RED THREAD).NOTE: The D and A make up Row 26; the B make up Row 27.

ROW 28 (CLASP LOOPS): String 5A, pass down through the next B of Row 27, through the nearest A of Row 26, and up through the following B of Row 27; repeat. String 5A; pass down through the final B of Row 27, then weave through beads to exit up through the last B added in Row 27 (FIG. 10). Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim.

Start 6' (1.8 m) of new thread that exits from the tip B of Fringe 4, toward the beadwork. Repeat Rows 1-28 to complete the other bracelet band.

(5) Clasp

Use 1 jump ring to attach the top loop of one half of the clasp to the top loop on one end of the band; repeat twice using the middle and bottom loops. Repeat this step on the other end of the bracelet using the other half of the clasp and making sure the clasp is positioned to close properly.

variations

• Make a wider version of the bracelet by forming the midline with five right-angle-weave units. Increase the number of fringes, nets, and herringbone stitches accordingly.

• Make a longer bracelet by adding more herringbone rows after Row 25, but finish the band by stitching Rows 26-28.

CHAPTER 3

Bugle Call

Janice Chatham

techniques Two-needle right-angle weave Flat peyote stitch Fringe

materials
0.5 g metallic dark BLUE iris size 15° Japanese seed beads (A)
16 metallic gold size 15° Japanese seed beads (B)
3 g gilded periwinkle size 11° Japanese seed beads
(C)
34 copper size 11° Japanese seed beads (D)
1 g metallic gold size 8° Japanese seed beads (E)
1 g metallic BLUE iris size 1 (3mm) Japanese bugle beads (F)
17 mustard yellow Picasso 6mm fire-polished rounds
(G)
1 silver-plated 6x7mm magnetic clasp
2 silver-plated 4mm jump rings Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread

tools Scissors
2 size 12 beading needles
2 pairs of chain- or flat-nose pliers

finished size
6¾" (17 cm)

(1) Clasp Loop 1

Place 1 needle at each end of 6' (1.8 m) of thread. Use the left needle to string 8C to the center of the thread (FIG. 1, purple THREAD). Use the right needle to pass back through the last C added to form a loop (FIG. 1, GREEN THREAD).NOTE: Because of the nature of two-needle right-angle weave, the needle will switch left and right positions with each stitch.

(2) Base

Use a variation of two-needle right-angle weave and loose tension to form the base row of the bracelet:

UNIT 1: Use the left needle to string 3C and 1G (FIG. 1, BLUE THREAD). Use the right needle to string 3C; pass back through the G to form a unit (FIG. 1, RED THREAD).

UNIT 2: Use the left needle to string 5C and 1G (FIG. 2, BLUE THREAD). Use the right needle to string 5C; pass back through the G to add the next unit (FIG. 2, RED THREAD).

UNITS 3-17: Repeat Unit 2 fifteen times.

UNIT 18: Use the left needle to string 4C (FIG. 3, purple THREAD). Use the right needle to string 3C; pass back through the last C added on the left side (FIG. 3, GREEN THREAD).

(3) Clasp Loop 2

Use the left needle to string 7C (FIG. 3, BLUE THREAD). Use the right needle to pass back through the 7C just added (FIG. 3, RED THREAD). Use each needle to weave through beads, exiting back through the first C added on each needle in Unit 18 of the base. NOTE: Stitching direction changes at the end of each row, so the right needle is now at the top edge of the base.

(4) Edges

Peyote-stitch along the edges of the base, then add fringes:

TOP EDGE, ROW 1: *Use the right (top) needle to string 1D and pass back through the following C along the edge of the base. String 1C, skip 1C on the edge of the base, and pass back through the following C; repeat. Repeat from * fifteen times. String 1D and pass back through the next C along the edge of the base (FIG. 4, black THREAD).

BOTTOM EDGE, ROW 1: Repeat Top edge, Row 1, using the left (bottom) needle. Weave through beads to exit the last C added in Row 1 of the top edge, toward the work (FIG. 4, purple THREAD). Use the other needle to weave through beads to exit the last C added in Row 1 of the bottom edge (FIG. 4, GREEN THREAD).

TOP EDGE, FRINGE: **Use the left (top) needle to string 1A, 1E, and 1A; pass back through the E. String 1A and pass back through the following C of the previous row. Weave through beads to exit the next C of the previous row. Repeat from ** fifteen times for a total of 16 fringes. Weave through beads to exit the nearest D/C on the opposite edge of the bracelet, toward the work (FIG. 4, BLUE THREAD).

BOTTOM EDGE, FRINGE: Repeat Top edge, fringe, using the right (bottom) needle (FIG. 4, RED THREAD).

(Continues…)


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Table of Contents

Introduction 4

1 Abbington 6

2 Art Deco 10

3 Bugle Call 16

4 Infinity 20

5 Pick Up Sticks 26

6 Tilt-a-Whirl 30

7 Lily's Lotus 36

8 Raspberry Strata 42

9 Lost in the Sahara 46

10 Lissome Plum 50

11 Moroccan Essence 54

12 Rhythm of the Sea 60

13 Paradox 66

14 That's a Wrap! 70

15 Formal Affair 74

16 Lilac Lace 80

17 Lily Pad 84

18 Xs and Os 88

19 Forest Sprite 92

20 Lacy Cables 96

21 Botanic Gardens 102

22 Crystal Waltz 106

23 Clinging Vine 110

24 Cactus Flower 114

25 Dancing Diamonds 118

26 Dragon Dance 122

27 Dakota Canyon 126

28 Himalaya 130

29 Double Diamondback 136

30 Vortices 142

31 Brick Tracks 148

32 Sultan's Treasure 152

33 Moroccan Sunset 158

34 Saturn Connections 162

35 Caliente 166

36 Peyote Points 172

37 Royal Countess 178

38 Line 'em Up 182

39 Inca Gold 186

40 Ilona 190

41 Primrose Path 194

42 Edgy Kumihimo 198

43 Sunny Day 202

44 Heart-to-Heart 206

45 Indian Summer 212

46 Knot of Hercules 216

47 Lacy Marquise 222

48 Lasso Loops 226

49 Lavender Weave 230

50 Lilian 234

Contributors 238

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50 Beaded Bracelets: Step-by-Step Techniques for Beautiful Beadwork Designs 5 out of 5 based on 0 ratings. 2 reviews.
apeape 6 days ago
This is a very well put together book, with lots of gorgeous projects. The instructions are clear and seem easy to follow; I am admittedly an absolute beginner to stitched beadwork and have never tried to follow a pattern like the ones in this book. However, I definitely want to learn after looking at the designs in this book! I do think this is geared more toward someone who has some experience with stitching, but that's not to say a beginner couldn't make these designs, just they might want to practice a bit first. There's lots of inspiration to be found here! #50beadedBracelets #NetGalley
LMLong 3 months ago
This book is a must have for any beader! It is filled with so many great designs that run from the very simple to the very elaborate pieces. I've spotted quite a few I can't wait to get started on. There seems to be something for everyone amongst the patterns chosen for this book. Simple stitches as well as ones I would need to refresh myself on are included in the multitude of patterns. I spotted wraps, bangles and cuffs and lots more in between. A few that caught my eye also gave tips for different colorways and converting the pattern to earrings or a necklace. I was pleasantly surprised to see a kumihimo pattern in the mix with complete braiding instructions for the disc included. The designers featured include some well known and well loved folks (hello, Jill Wiseman!) The illustrated pattern instructions are clear and shouldn't be a problem for anyone familiar with beading. The material lists are clear and do not include hard to find beads. I personally like having one book bound with 50 patterns from the many issues of Beadwork magazine that they were originally offered in . I received an advanced copy for an honest review and couldn't be happier to flip through these pages. Many thanks to F & W and Netgalley for the opportunity to review this gem. Well done!