Rintaro: Japanese Food from an Izakaya in California

Nestled behind a leafy courtyard in San Francisco’s Mission District, with the warm glow of lanterns illuminating well-worn wood counters, Rintaro is a beautiful escape; familiar and unexpected, bold and restrained. And its food is straightforwardly delicious: dashimaki tamago, juicy and piping hot; pork gyoza, each dumpling held together by a web of crispy batter; udon with hand-rolled noodles and a hot-spring egg; and a towering melon parfait with bright melon jellies that all but burst ...