Elusive Majesty: Exploration of the World's Most Beautiful Cave

I pulled off my boots, shaking ever-present grit from the toes, and stripped down until my only attire was a headlamp. "Now there's one for the fashion runways," I thought wryly. More aging adventurer than willowy Milan supermodel, I eased into the impossibly cool, aqua water and felt the floor quickly fall away. My buddy Neil followed behind. We stroked across the Olympic pool-sized lake, which at its center seemed to be 20 crystalline feet deep, maybe more. Ahead of us the water dove arou...