In 2004, David Lebovitz packed up his most treasured cookbooks, a well-worn cast-iron skillet, and his laptop and moved to Paris. In that time, the culinary culture of France has shifted as a new generation of chefs and home cooks—most notably in Paris—incorporates ingredients and techniques from around the world into traditional French dishes.
In My Paris Kitchen, David remasters the classics, introduces lesser-known fare, and presents 100 sweet and savory recipes that reflect the way modern Parisians eat today. You’ll find Soupe à l’oignon, Cassoulet, Coq au vin, and Croque-monsieur, as well as Smoky barbecue-style pork, Lamb shank tagine, Dukkah-roasted cauliflower, Salt cod fritters with tartar sauce, and Wheat berry salad with radicchio, root vegetables, and pomegranate. And of course, there’s dessert: Warm chocolate cake with salted butter caramel sauce, Duck fat cookies, Bay leaf poundcake with orange glaze, French cheesecake...and the list goes on. David also shares stories told with his trademark wit and humor, and lush photography taken on location around Paris and in David’s kitchen reveals the quirks, trials, beauty, and joys of life in the culinary capital of the world.
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Black Olive Tapenade
Serves 6 to 8
This was the first tapenade I ever made, and it is still my go-to recipe. The best olives to use are the slightly wrinkled black olives from Nyons; or, if you have the patience for pitting teensy Niçoise olives, they’re marvelously oily and are the base for a wonderful bowl of tapenade. Other olives work well, too, but if they’re very salty, rinse them in cold water and pat them dry before using them.
One way to pit olives is to squish them under your thumb or use the side of a broad knife blade, with the blade held parallel to the table (i.e., not facing up), and rap it down briskly to release the pit from the olive meat. Be sure to wear a dark shirt or kitchen apron since the pits like to celebrate their liberté in a very “far-reaching” way.
Tapenade can be spread on Herbed goat cheese toasts. Pastis is the classic accompaniment, although I never developed a taste for the anise-scented
elixir that mysteriously turns cloudy when water is added to dilute its high-test taste and strength. I opt for chilled rosé.
1-1/2 cups (210g) black olives, pitted
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and squeezed dry
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme, or 1/2 teaspoon dried
2 anchovy fillets
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/3 cup (80ml) olive oil
Sea salt or kosher salt (optional)
1. In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the olives, garlic, capers, thyme, anchovies, lemon juice, and mustard a few times to start breaking them down.
2. Add the olive oil and run the food processor until the mixture forms a slightly chunky paste. The tapenade shouldn’t need any salt, but taste and add a sprinkle if necessary. The tapenade will keep for up to 1 week in the refrigerator.
Table of ContentsIntroduction
ingrédients de base
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
Transports you to France without the plane ride! My Paris Kitchen: Recipes and Stories by David Lebovitz arrived on my doorstep yesterday and transported me, virtually, to Paris. As much as I was looking forward to discovering the recipes, Lebovitz's stories about Paris, the markets, the fast food craze, the olive vendor, the search for the perfect kitchen sink mesmerized me. I couldn't stop reading, and, funnily enough, began translating what I read into French. Well, it's been a while since I dreamed in French, but hadn't backward translated a book in a much longer time. But the sense that Lebovitz provides of actually experiencing Paris and France through is truly remarkable. The photographs by Ed Anderson are gorgeous and seamlessly flow throughout the book. If you want every dish photographed, this isn't the book for you. These aren't recipes to slavishly follow, but should be created, as Lebovitz notes in his forward, "au pif" or "by the nose." With that explanation, Lebovitz gained a fan for life, as that's how I remember learning to cook in France. Watching, chopping, stirring, tasting, throwing in dashes of this or that, but it was the entire process that was important, and was never broken down detail by detail as we tend to do. Oh, I'm in my own Normandy dream world right now recollecting the baguettes, brioche, and croissants delivered every morning; galvanized tin pails of milk and eggs gathered from the farm next door; cheeses, fish, and vegetables purchased at the market in Dieppe; herbs harvested from the circle garden for ratatouille, mayonnaise; searching out the wicker covered cheese platter from the root cellar (only certain cheeses were refrigerated); the wonder of deboning my first Dover sole, freshly caught that morning; fishing for crevettes to boil for the afternoon meal; conversation, laughter, and joy at the family table. Yes, reading David Lebovitz's My Paris Kitchen sent me back a bit in time to a wonderful place! If you've never been to Paris or France, but desire to journey there some time, read this book. Even if you're not interested in cooking, this is a remarkable collection of essays about French culture as it is experienced by a very astute observer. Love to cook? Well, you will be in seventh heaven with the variety and scope of recipes that Lebovitz shares from his kitchen. As a strong proponent of the farm-to-table movement, it's not surprising that seasonal produce is celebrated. The apricot crumble tart is calling to me, but I may just need to substitute fresh peaches (as this year, our Hudson Valley apricot crop is not as plentiful due to the harsh winter). But that's okay as I'm still working "au pif." Since it's a rainy, cool, August day, the French onion soup is quite hard to resist. In fact, the photo and recipe are calling to me. Loudly. This is probably the best recipe I've seen to recreate the true French soup that I learned to make by observation only years ago. Lebovitz's recipe for Cassoulet almost makes me want to try creating it again this winter. I might. But I don't think I'll ever match the taste of the cassoulet my French "mother" would purchase from one Parisian purveyor. The "only" one to buy from, as she would say. It was truly a luxury, as much as the foie gros that we had had the evening before. It's funny to think that Parisians needed an American to introduce them to a leafy green, but, yes, David Lebovitz confirms it took Kristen Beddard and her Kale Project to make this trendy green popular in the French markets. I would have sworn that was one of those greens I learned to like during my pre-Kale Project stay in France (sautéed in butter with a dash of fresh lemon juice, salt and pepper). I know Swiss Chard (la blette) was a green I avoided before living in France and am surprised that Lebovitz doesn't feature a recipe or two with it. I hadn't realized what it was when I was served it during a summer midday meal, but found myself asking each day if I could watch the cook prepare this delicious green dish. When she finally agreed and I saw, in fact, that this was the almost-despised chard, I started to giggle. But it was that moment that made me appreciate how small things (sautéing the chopped stem in butter then cooking that with the chopped leafy bit in stock) made something rather boring into something wonderful. Ah, the French way of cooking is really magical simplicity. Ah, yes, butter. I adore David Lebovitz's explanation of the debate between using salted or unsalted butter. Read it and understand the nuances of taste and, dream a bit, of the wonderful French farm butters. That's one thing that we still don't find here, though we are catching up, finally, with Farmers' Markets, locally sourced meats and poultry, as well as a much deeper appreciation of how supporting the farm-to-table movement not only benefits farmers and consumers, but the earth itself. Ironically, the saddest part of the book was reading that the French are moving away from their farm-to-table markets toward the Supermarche and fast food experience. Yes, we now have our slow cooking movement and the French are searching out fast food. Talk about irony. I can't imagine living in Paris and not shopping in the outdoor markets that feature countryside farmers, purchasing bread at the bakery, going to the favorite butcher for the perfect roast. I think I shopped at a supermarket once while I lived in Paris and never in the countryside. Everything was always purchased form the small purveyors. But it seems that trend has changed over the past ten to fifteen years. I may just keep my memories wrapped up safely and hope when I return that the purveyors, or their children, are still there. Some other recipes that I can't wait to try are the Hummus and tapenade, the ham, blue cheese, and pear quiche (this is a flavor profile I want to test out now, not wait for pears to ripen in a few weeks), the fried ham and cheese sandwich (the ubiquitous croque-monsieur that is my personal favorite), a butternut squash crumble in the fall and winter months. Oh so many wonderful recipes to read over, plan to create, and dream about. Sheer heaven. Lebovitz also dispenses advice that everyone should follow. His essay, "Honesty, My Best Policy," about his initial interview with Alice Waters is a life lesson for all of us. What have I taken away from reading My Paris Kitchen? Recipes I'll treasure. Stories that will let me dream. And a bookish friendship with and admiration for a very talented and astute observer of people and culture. Yes, my dream dinner party is growing and I'd love to sit down with David Lebovitz and his partner someday and just discuss - anything! Now, what books might I pair with this cookbook. Quite simply any of Laura Florand's Amour et Chocolat titles and Cara Black's Aimée Leduc mysteries. In conclusion, I highly, highly recommend My Paris Kitchen: Recipes and Stories by David Lebovitz. This is a book that will be long-treasured, not only for the recipes but for the wonderful stories and sense of place that Lebovitz evokes, effortlessly. (I received this book from Blogging for Books and NetGalley for this review.)
I bought this book based on the reviews and I was not disappointed. I tend to cook more Italian then French. However, after getting this book I think I will do some French cooking. The recipes are not complicated and ingredients are also not difficult to find. If you like cookbook reading, definitely get this book.
David's latest book is outstanding! With the same delightful humor found in his blog, he provides not only great recipes but the geographic and social context that makes them far more than well designed and tested instructions.
I have read this book beg. to end. First time writing a review. Love the way lebovitz writes. Funny, interesting a page turner. Have over 400 cookbooks and this is a favorite. Tried at least five recipes. Love them all! Easy to read, follow and cook. Have purchased two of his other books. Enjoy!
Title: My Paris Kitchen - Recipes and Stories Author: David Lebovitz Photography: Ed Anderson Published: 4-8-2014 Publisher: Ten Speed Press Pages: 354 Genre: Cooking, Food & Wine Sub Genre: Cookbooks; Travel; France: International ISBN: 9781607742678 ASIN: B00FUZR04O Reviewer: DelAnne Reviewed For: NetGalley My Rating: 5 Stars . When looking for a cookbook you do not usually expect to find a well written memoir included. If Mr. Lobowitz ever decides to change careers he could easily saunter of to a literary career instead. His prose wood make a visit to a junk yard sound interesting. I envy him his time in France as he acclimatized to the Parisian lifestyle. You can envision the open produce markets and smell the mixed scents of pungent garlic and sweet strawberries. The Photographs transport you to the streets of Paris. the vibrant colors and bustle of busy traffic. There is a discussion of the equipment which even David Lobowitz agrees most home cooks already have, but new cooks just starting out on their own may not. My Paris Table show us that you do not have to have a gourmet kitchen to cook top quality meals. There is also a section that covers how to get good quality foods and why it is the better choice and where to find it. Then we come to the stuff most purchased My Paris Table for -- the recipes. I love a good onion tart and had to try My Paris Table's version and it was delicious. I a bit strange in that I can fry up a pan of onions, season them and then gorge myself and call it dinner. I love the way sautéed onions taste and can eat them every day. My favorite sides were the Raw vegetable slaw with the creamy garlic dressing and Vegetable Soup with Basil Puree. I tried the Fried Ham & Cheese Sandwich and it fed two it was so big. I think I will use a different bread next time though, either a wheat or even use a thin pita instead. At the end of a meal there is the prize, dessert. You will think you have died and gone to heaven over the Warm Chocolate cake with salted butter caramel sauce and my favorite Carrot Cake, which is good for me because it makes my taste buds wake up and dance with happiness. There are so many recipes to try and little twist David Lebovitz outs on them to tweak the flavors. You will not become bored with the offerings or the little snippets into his life and thoughts. My rating is 5 out of 5 stars.
All I think I need to say about this book is, take me to Paris. I absolutely loved every single inch of this book. It is probably the best book I have ever reviewed. I just can’t say enough good words about this book. My Paris Kitchen by David Lebovitz is rather unique. David used to live here in the United States but moved to Paris, France. He has lived there about 10 years and he brings you French recipes as well as stories and pictures. Now, I know the French have a reputation as being gourmet but that’s not the case in this cookbook. All recipes call for ingredients that the average person would have in their pantry. Most of all the recipes are French which I love because it’s unique and not just like any other cookbook. The recipes titles are wrote in English but he also gives it to you in French. Every recipe is accompanied with a story about Paris and how people there do things differently than in the United States. For example, Fried Ham and Cheese Sandwich recipe has a story about how French people eat sandwiches, they eat it with forks not with their hands like we do. I find all the Paris facts to be super interesting. I absolutely love the pictures featured in this book. They are so beautiful and truly showcase Paris. Just about every recipe has a picture of the food being talked about. As you can see on the picture of the cover, the food looks amazing. I can only imagine how wonderful his food taste. This book boasts 345 pages with 100 recipes. As you know by now I love my hardcovers and this book is! The cover feels so silky; I could just touch it all day long. This cookbook is just so elegant and super professional quality. I am beyond happy that I got my hands on this book. I would give this book 100 stars! Anyone from a home cook to a chef would find something to appreciate in this cookbook. If you especially love Paris and cooking, you will fall in love with this book like I did. It’s amazing! I received this book for free from Blogging For Books Program in exchange for my honest review.
If you love to read about food and international cultures, you'll want to have My Paris Kitchen by David Lebovitz on your bookshelf. The photographs and entertaining stories alone make the book worth the read. Whether he is recalling his job interview with Alice Waters or listing tools and ingredients for a Paris Kitchen, Lebovitz offers an engaging and useful book. The recipes themselves, such as "Scalloped Potatoes with Bleu Cheese and Roasted Garlic" and "Chocolate-Dulce De Leche Tart" are downright mouthwatering. Dishes range from first to main courses as well as sides and desserts. As I leaf through the book, I edit my shopping list to include the ingredients to a few of these dishes. I thoroughly enjoyed and highly recommend this book to anyone who enjoys learning about food and culture. When you're not using the recipes, you'll enjoy reading the stories and wisdom from My Paris Kitchen by David Lebovitz. I received my copy of this book free of charge in exchange for this review. All opinions in this review are my own.
A nice cookbook. I liked the Dorie Greenspan book better which I read when we came back from france. I bought this as the third book in my french book series (the first was What is that on the Menu? A Simple Guide to French Food Words which was invaluable in those french bistros) and the Dorie Greenspan book was second and this was third. It is not my favorite, but there are some nice recipes in there. I like the way Dorie Greenspan writes, but this one is good too.
Excellent book and the pictures are exceptional.