My Wave
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Throughout the past five decades, surfers have been falsely given a bad reputation that stems mainly from fictional movies. They are portrayed as lazy, weed smoking, hippy, free-loaders with no ambition in life other than surfing. That is not reality. Books with a surfing theme all have one thing in common; they are documents about courage, pushing the limits, near death experiences, overcoming all obstacles, friendship and love.
What outsiders do not realize is surfers have a unique and spi...























