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Surf, Sweat and Tears

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"I don't normally read books about surfers, but this is like Truman Capote,
with shorts." —Lee Child

"Andy Martin, to his immense credit, knows that surfers are misfits and accidental comics, as well as great athletes." —Matt Warshaw

"A sublime mixing of stoke and sorrow, hedonism and the macabre—skillfully and deftly penned by someone who had, and still has, intimate access to many of the key players."
—Tom Anderson, author of Riding the Magic Carpet: A Surfer's Odyssey to Find the Perfect Wav...