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The Island

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On his first morning in Taiwan in 1981, Mark O'Neill was awoken by military conscripts singing a patriotic song on the sports ground of their camp. It was a fitting introduction to martial law and the start of his 40-year journey through the island moored off the coast of Fujian province. Next came learning the Chinese language - traditional characters only, please - and the curious love affair between Taiwan and Japan, the former colonial power, remembered in statues, buildings, and sumo t...