Women on Waves: A Cultural History of Surfing: From Ancient Goddesses and Hawaiian Queens to Malibu Movie Stars and Millennial Champions

by Jim Kempton

Overview

A captivating look at two centuries of surfing—"the Sport of Queens"—from Native Hawaiian royalty to the breakout style and jaw-dropping feats on the waves today.

Few subjects in the world of sports and or the outdoors is more timely or compelling than women’s surfing. From smart, strong, fearless women shattering records on 80-foot waves to professional athletes fighting for equal pay and a more fair and just playing field, these amazing, wave-riding warriors provide an inspirational and aspirational cast of powerful role models for women (and men) across all backgrounds and generations.

Over the past two-hundred years, and especially the past five decades, the surfing lifestyle have become the envy of people around the world. The perception of sun, sand, surf, strong young women and their inimitable style, has created a booming lifestyle and sports industry—and the sport that is set to make its Olympic exhibition debut in Tokyo 2021. A massive shift from when colonizers tried to extinguish all traces of Native Hawaiian surfing and its sacred culture.

What is it about the surfing that intrigues people of all ages, from all corners of the world? The beaches and idyllic locations? The unique style and mystique that surfers project? These women, on the beach and riding giant waves, or in the media, have made their mark on not just their sport, but our wider culture.

Women on Waves is filled with phenomenal athletic performance, breakthrough female achievements, and plenty of inspiration and fun to see us through until the time when we can all hit the surf once more!

Spanning a millennia from Hawaii to Malibu, New York to Australia, South Africa to the South Pacific and beyond, Jim Kempton presents a fascinating new narrative that will captivate anyone who loves sports and the outdoors.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9781643137247
Publisher:	Pegasus Books
Publication date:	07/06/2021
Pages:	304
Sales rank:	705,062
Product dimensions:	6.40(w) x 9.20(h) x 1.80(d)

About the Author

Jim Kempton is the award-winning former editor in chief of SURFER magazine. He is the author of three books, the including First We Surf, Then We Eat and Surfing: The Manual. Currently, he is the President of the California Surf Museum and served as project director for a 70-foot surf exploration vessel, the Indies Trader, which traversed the globe in search of new wave discoveries while mapping the location and health of the world’s reefs.

Table of Contents

Preface vii

1 The Sport of Queens, the Realm of Goddesses 1099-1899 1

2 Death, Resurrection and the Road to Emancipation 1900-1925 12

3 Rediscovering the Supreme Pleasure 1926-1941 22

4 A New Rising Swell 1941-1950 30

5 Wahine Wanderlust Adventurers of the 50s 1949-1959 38

6 Hollywood Malibu Magic 1945-1958 45

7 Gidget Goes Global 1959-1969 55

8 The Surfing Life 1959-1969 62

9 First Editions The 60s 70

10 Big Girls Don't Cry 1962-1967 79

11 The Golden Age The 60s 86

12 Surrealistic Pillow 1967-1972 94

13 Short boards, Short-sighted, and Short-changed 1969-1975 103

14 Visionaries Breach the Barricades 1975-1982 113

15 The First World Surfing Tour Around the World in 80 Dismays 123

16 Heart Full of Soul 1982 131

17 Some Girls The 70s 142

18 Professionalism Goes Feminine 1982-1993 158

19 Love is a Battlefield The 80s 169

20 Somebody Bring Me Some Water 1981-1992 180

21 Just A Girl 1993-1999 191

22 A League of Their Own The 90s 199

23 The Resurgence of Glide 1982-1999 209

24 Turbulent Indigo The 90s 218

25 Millennium Stars 2000-2007 228

26 Seven Wonders 2000-2007 243

27 The Edge of Glory 2007-2011 250

28 Big Wave Matadoras 1950-2000 261

29 Making the Big Time 2007-2020 269

30 Insult To Injury 282

31 The Long Way Around 2000-2021 291

32 Shining Lights 304

33 The Father-Daughter Dance The 20-Teens 314

34 Dancing On My Own 2011-2021 325

35 Brave New World 2000-2020 341

36 Pure Heroines 349

37 Ocean Eyes 365

38 The Medea of Media 377

39 New Rules 2010-2020 389

40 Rolling in the Deep 2015-2020 402

41 Making Points 413

42 Head Above Water 425

43 Big Energy 443

44 The Future is Female 2000-2022 453

Acknowledgments 459

Bibliography 461

Name Index 483

Editorial Reviews

★ 05/03/2021

Kempton (First We Surf, Then We Eat), former editor-in-chief of Surfer magazine, chronicles the fascinating history of women’s surfing in this spectacular work. He begins in 17th-century Hawaii, where the world’s oldest known surfboard belonged to a Polynesian princess—then skips ahead to the 1920s to reveal that famed mystery author Agatha Christie was an avid surfer at a time when “very few British people were surfing.” That changed when women’s surfing clubs in Great Britain introduced the sport to the masses in the 1930s. Moving through the 20th century, Kempton surveys surfing’s postwar popularity, particularly its rise in Hollywood, where stars including Marilyn Monroe “were regulars in the surf.” Bringing the narrative up to the present, Kempton looks at the competitive surfing scene around the world and the ongoing battles for gender equality within it—such as the push by surfer Jessi Miley-Dyer to establish equal prize money in the World Surfing League (which only began awarding men and women the same amount in 2019). Dense as it is, the detailed history easily bobs along thanks to Kempton’s riveting narration. This is a must for anyone with even a passing interest in the sport. Agent: Suzy Evans, Sandra Dijkstra Agency. (July)

Publishers Weekly

"Readers will learn about women surfers in each decade whose achievements were ignored by the surfing media and who battled issues of gender inequality while creating opportunities for the next generation. Kempton presents a comprehensive and important group portrait and an enriching contribution to women’s sports history that honors influential wave riders and celebrates surfing sisterhood."

Booklist

This is going to be the Gold Standard for women’s surfing history around the world. The visual story telling interwoven with historical facts is stunning.

Shannon Aikman

A sublime, heavily researched, well-written, labor of love.

David Rensin

I believe in the power of personal narrative, in the voices not first heard. Women on Waves is a rare gem. The sheer number of stories, from competitive triumphs to personal struggles makes this fascinating history of women's surfing more than just comprehensive. It is, in effect, the entire sweep of surfing culture—told for the first time through the lens of women’s experiences."

Samantha Dunn

I love being part of women’s surfing right now! There are so many girls rocking it and pushing hard. It’s so awesome to see and inspires me to push hard too. I can’t wait to see what women’s surfing will be like when I’m an oldie!

Bethany Hamilton

"Kempton stands in awe of the women’s talent, ambition, and successes and presents their stories with a whole lot of heart. With expertise and passion fueling every story, Women on Waves is an inspiration."

Christian Science Monitor

07/01/2021

Sandy beaches and crashing waves have beckoned for centuries, but most surfing history to date has focused on men's prowess in the sport. Journalist Kempton (former editor in chief of Surfer Magazine) now tells the comprehensive story of women in surfing, starting with 11th-century Hawaiian legends and lore and continuing right up to today's fearless and innovative young surfers. Kempton's narrative is accompanied by margin notes on the evolution of women's rights and roles on dry land; he also explains how women helped surfing culture spread throughout the world. This is an engaging, inclusive history of surfing, full of unforgettable women and their stories. Kempton has a smooth narrative voice and a talent for uncovering the hidden heroines of the beautiful, dangerous, always enthralling sport. His deep research and thorough timeline reveal a perhaps lesser-known side of surfing and put women surfers on equal footing with men. VERDICT As surfing will make its Olympic debut in 2021, this book's eye-catching cover and well-organized history make it an outstanding choice for sports and surfing aficionados. Recommended for public library sports collections, especially in areas where surfing is popular.—Janet Davis, Darien P.L., CT

Library Journal