Chez Panisse Fruit

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Overview

In 2001 Chez Panisse was named the number one restaurant in America by Gourmet magazine — quite a journey from 1971 when Alice Waters opened Chez Panisse as a place where she and her friends could cook country French food with local ingredients and talk politics.

As the restaurant's popularity grew, so did Alice's commitment to organic, locally grown foods and to a community of farmers and producers who provide the freshest ingredients, grown and harvested naturally with techniques that preserve and enrich the land for future generations. After thirty years, the innovative spirit and pure, intense flavors of Chez Panisse continue to delight and surprise ...

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More About This Book

Overview

In 2001 Chez Panisse was named the number one restaurant in America by Gourmet magazine — quite a journey from 1971 when Alice Waters opened Chez Panisse as a place where she and her friends could cook country French food with local ingredients and talk politics.

As the restaurant's popularity grew, so did Alice's commitment to organic, locally grown foods and to a community of farmers and producers who provide the freshest ingredients, grown and harvested naturally with techniques that preserve and enrich the land for future generations. After thirty years, the innovative spirit and pure, intense flavors of Chez Panisse continue to delight and surprise all who visit, and even those who cant get there know that Alice started a quiet revolution, changing the culinary landscape forever. Inspired by Chez Panisse, more and more people across the country are discovering the sublime pleasures of local, organic vegetables and fruits.

Now join Alice Waters and the cooks at Chez Panisse in celebration of fruit. Chez Panisse Fruit draws on the exuberant flavors of fresh, ripe fruit to create memorable dishes. In this companion volume to Chez Panisse Vegetables, discover more than 200 recipes for both sweet and savory dishes featuring fruit. Glorify the late-summer peach harvest with Peach and Raspberry Gratin, and extend the season with Grilled Cured Duck Breast with Pickled Peaches. Enjoy the first plums in Pork Loin Stuffed with Wild Plums and Rosemary. Preserve the fresh flavors of winter citrus with Kumquat Marmalade or Candied Grapefruit Peel. Organized alphabetically by fruit — from apples to strawberries — and including helpful essays on selecting, storing, and preparing fruit, this book will help you make the very most of fresh fruits from season to season. Illustrated with beautiful color relief prints by Patricia Curtan, Chez Panisse Fruit is a book to savor and to treasure.

Editorial Reviews

From Barnes & Noble
The Barnes & Noble Review
Since the mid-1970s, Alice Waters and her cooks at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California, have been celebrated for their simple yet sophisticated approach to food, seeking out the finest organic fruits and vegetables for maximum flavor.

All these graces are on display in their excellent new cookbook, which celebrates fruit in every part of the menu, in salads and main dishes, beverages and desserts, pickles and preserves. The book is organized alphabetically and illustrated like the companion volume, Chez Panisse Vegetables, with 50 handsome four-color relief prints by Patricia Curtan. Waters and the Chez Panisse cooks provide 200 recipes for 38 fruits and their varieties, along with advice on choosing, storing, and cooking. Yes, there are recipes for apples, lemons, peaches, and plums, and also harder-to-find fruits like loquats, mulberries, gooseberries, sour cherries, and currants.

Some of the recipes are more formal, like Spit-Roasted Pork with Onion and Apple Marmalade and Grilled Cured Duck Breast with Pickled Peaches. Others -- Grapes Roasted in a Wooden Oven, or Stuffed Dates, Mango with Sauternes, Melon Gelato, and Moroccan Preserved Lemons -- are more informal; in fact, they read less like a recipe and more like the expression of a simple, great idea. I was also happy to see a handful of recipes for jams and jellies made in small quantities.

Waters and the Chez Panisse chefs do not burden the reader with many cross-references, because they think you can figure out for yourself that blackberries can replace boysenberries, that peaches can stand in for nectarines. Go to the farmer's market, talk to the produce manager at your market, they urge. If you concentrate your efforts on picking locally organic fruit at its peak, they contend, whatever you cook will be wonderful.

The back of the book helpfully contains the basic Chez Panisse recipes for Puff Pastry, Galette Dough, Pâte Sucrée, Sponge Cake, and Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, and all the other dessert things that go well with fruit. (Ginger Curwen)

Nicholas Lemann
Chez Panisse...[is] the most influential American restaurant of the past generation...In the...Waters way of cooking, flavor comes to the fore and technique recedes.
—The New Yorker
More Reviews (3) Fewer Reviews
Gourmet
Chez Panisse is th single best restaurant in the United States.
Publishers Weekly
The eighth Chez Panisse cookbook, which features sweet and savory dishes that use fruit, follows what has become acclaimed chef Alice Waters's patented style: a mix of rustic dishes, many exhibiting Italian and French influence, that highlight the best possible produce. Recipes are organized by fruit, and each chapter begins with a mini-essay on varieties and growing conditions, and often sounds the biodiversity alarm, as when Waters opines, "How sad, then, that well over 90 percent of the apples sold in this country belong to one of only fifteen of those seven thousand varieties." Desserts showcase flavors that may be slightly unfamiliar, either because they use unusual varieties (Caramelized Red Banana Tartlets) or different versions of a common fruit, as with Fig Cookies that are a haute substitute for Fig Newtons and use fresh figs rather than dried. Savory dishes such as Middle Eastern-Style Lamb Stew with Dried Apricots and a tasty assembly of spices skew more traditional. Some of the most intriguing recipes are the simplest, such as Pickled Cherries and Tea-Poached Prunes. At times, Waters's specificity can be exasperating. Will Cr pes Suzette with Pixie Tangerine Sherbet be just as good if the sherbet is made with some other variety of tangerine? Still, it's hard to find fault with a book wide-ranging and inventive enough to comfortably encompass Judy's Deep-Fried Lemon and Artichokes, Spring Fruit Compote with Kiwifruit Sherbet and Coconut Meringue, and a tart Vin de Pamplemousse ap ritif. (May) Forecast: As always, Waters's combination of serious writing and creative recipes will have cooks heading to the kitchen, and cookbook buyers heading to the stores. This book sticks to the tried-and-true Chez Panisse formula, which shows no signs of wearing out. Copyright 2002 Cahners Business Information.
Library Journal
The companion toChez Panisse Vegetables, this is another wonderful book from Waters and crew (Alan Tangren, now the pastry chef, was the restaurant's "forager" for many years, responsible for buying produce and other ingredients from local purveyors and growers). It is invaluable both as a reference and a cookbook and features unsually lyrical writing. The fruits are organized alphabetically, and each entry provides information on seasons, buying, storing, preparing, and different varieties. There are savory recipes as well as desserts, from Spit-Roasted Pork with Apple Marmalade and Green Apple Sherbet to Grilled Duck Breast with Seville Orange Sauce and Blood Orange Tartlets to Grilled Quail with Pomegranates and Pomegranate Granita. The attractive, understated design and lovely full-color linocuts add to the book's appeal. Essential. Copyright 2002 Cahners Business Information.

Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9780060199579
  • Publisher: HarperCollins Publishers
  • Publication date: 4/28/2002
  • Edition description: 1ST
  • Pages: 352
  • Sales rank: 354,502
  • Product dimensions: 10.26 (w) x 7.30 (h) x 1.30 (d)

Meet the Author

Alice Waters is the visionary chef and owner of Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California. She is the author of four cookbooks, including Chez Panisse Vegetables and Fanny at Chez Panisse. In 1994 she founded the Edible schoolyard at Berkeley's Martin Luther King Jr. Middle School, a model curriculum that integrates organic gardening into academic classes and into the life of the school; it will soon incorporate a school lunch program in which students will prepare, serve, and share food they grow themselves, augmented by organic dairy products, grains, fruits, vegetables, meat, and fish—all locally and sustainably produced.

David Lance Goines is a Berkeley printer and designer whose friendship with Alice Waters goes back more than thirty years. His famous posters, including his annual Chez Panisse birthday posters, are in the permanent Collections of the Smithsonian Institution in Washington D.C., the Musée des Arts Décoratifs at the Louvre in Paris, the Achenbach Foundation at the California Palace of the Legion of Honor in San Francisco.

 

Read an Excerpt

Pork Loin Stuffed with Wild Plums and Rosemary

Once again, we advise you to avoid eating pork unless you can find a local certified organic farmer who takes care of his hogs the right way.

1 1/2pounds wild plums or Santa Rosa plums
2 shallots
1 bunch rosemary
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons brandy
2 tablespoons sweet wine (Beaumes-de-Venise and port are good choices)
1/2 cup water Salt and pepper
2 lemons
1 standing 6-rib pork loin, chine bone removed

The plums can be prepared a day in advance. Split the plums in half and remove the pits. Cut the halves into small wedges. Peel and chop the shallots fine. Strip enough rosemary leaves off the stems to make a scant 1/2 teaspoon, chopped.

Heat the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed pot, add the shallots and the rosemary, and cook for 5 minutes over medium heat, until wilted. Add the brandy and flame. Add the sweet wine, bring to a boil, add the plums, and cook for 3 minutes. Add the water and mash the plums with a potato masher or whisk. Add 1/4 teaspoon salt, a generous amount of freshly ground pepper, the grated zest of 1/4 lemon, and a squeeze of lemon juice. Cook at a simmer until thickened, about 10 minutes, stirring often to keep the plum paste from sticking and burning. Taste and adjust the salt as needed. Let cool completely before stuffing the pork loin.

To stuff the loin, take a sharp knife and cut along the rib bones to separate them from meat. Cut almost all the way down, leaving only 1 inch of the loin attached to the bones. Make a lengthwise pocket for the stuffing, cutting halfway into the roast, where the meat has beenexposed from the bones. Liberally season the roast all over with salt and pepper; this will give it a delicious crust. Season the inside of the pocket and stuff it with the plum paste. Press the pocket closed. Slice the second lemon as thin as you can. Arrange the lemon slices and rosemary sprigs between the bones and the meat. Gently push the roast back into its original shape. Using cotton twine, tie up the roast with one tie between each rib. Now the loin is stuffed with the plums in the middle and the lemon and rosemary between the ribs and the meat. It can be roasted now or covered and refrigerated for up to a day.

If the loin has been refrigerated, take it out of the refrigerator at least 1 hour before roasting. Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Put the loin in a roasting pan, bone side down, and roast for about 1 1/2 hours, until an internal temperature of 130°F. is reached. Start checking the temperature with an instant-read thermometer after an hour, but be sure to insert the thermometer into the meat, avoiding the line of stuffing. When the roast is done, remove it from the oven and let it rest for at least 20 minutes in a warm place. Remove the twine, carve into individual chops, and serve.

Serves 6.

Strawberry Sherbet

Two 1 -pint baskets strawberries (about 4 cups)
3/4 cup water
3/4 cup sugar
Optional: A few drops of lemon juice or kirsch

Rinse, dry, and hull the strawberries. Purée them with the water and sugar. Taste and adjust the flavor with a few drops of lemon or kirsch if needed. Freeze according to the instructions for your ice cream maker.

Makes about 1 quart.

Chez Panisse Fruit. Copyright © by Alice Waters. Reprinted by permission of HarperCollins Publishers, Inc. All rights reserved. Available now wherever books are sold.

Recipe

VIN DE PÊCHE
Makes about 6 cups

120 fresh peach leaves, picked in late spring or early summer, washed and dried
One 750-ml bottle red wine (preferably a light, fruity Zinfandel)
1/2 cup Cognac
2 cups sugar

Combine all the ingredients in a nonreactive container and cover tightly. Store in a cool, dark cellar or in the refrigerator for 30 days. Strain out the leaves and bottle in a clean wine bottle. Serve as an apéritif, well chilled or over ice.

MOROCCAN CHICKEN WITH DATES
Serves 4 to 6

The best dates to use in this dish are the harder, smaller, lighter colored varieties, such as Zahidi, because they aren't as sweet as the softer, darker varieties, such as Medjool and Black Sphinx.

1 chicken (3 to 4 pounds), quartered
Salt and pepper
2 onions
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 teaspoon saffron threads
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
1/2 cup chopped cilantro
1/2 pound Zahidi or Halawy dates (about 24)
A few sprigs cilantro

Season the chicken well with salt and pepper. Peel and grate the onions. Melt the butter in a large heavy-bottomed pot. Add the onions, saffron, cinnamon, ginger, and chopped cilantro; season with salt and stir over high heat for 2 or 3 minutes. Add the chicken and cook another few minutes before pouring in enough water to just cover the chicken pieces. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the chicken is tender, about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally to make sure nothing is sticking. Add water if necessary.

When the chicken is done, remove it from the pan and set aside while you finish the sauce. Skim the fat from the liquid left in the pan; taste for salt and adjust as needed. Add the dates and simmer for 15 minutes over medium heat. Stir occasionally, but be careful not to break up or smash the dates. Return the chicken to the sauce. After 5 minutes or so, when the chicken is hot again, arrange the pieces on a platter (over a bed of couscous, perhaps) and pour the sauce over the meat. Garnish with sprigs of cilantro and serve.

RASBERRY JAM
Makes 2-1/4 cups

We use this to fill cakes (especially almond torte), tarts, and cookies. We also warm and strain it to use as a glaze for fresh fruit tarts, especially in the winter.

4 cups raspberries (about 3 baskets)
2 cups sugar
1 teaspoon lemon juice

Stir together the berries and sugar in a medium-size heavy-bottomed saucepan. Let sit for 15 minutes so that the berries start rendering their juice. Put a small plate in the freezer to use later to test the consistency of the jam.

Prepare two 1-pint canning jars and self-sealing lids in boiling water, following the manufacturer's instructions.

Bring the saucepan of berries to a boil over high heat, stirring occasionally to make sure there is no sticking (reduce the heat if there is). The mixture will bubble up dramatically, rising high up the sides of the pot. Skim off any light-colored foam as it collects on the edges. Soon the jam will boil down again, forming smaller, thicker bubbles. At this point, start testing the consistency by putting small spoonfuls of the jam on the cold plate. This will cool off the jam sample quickly so you can tell what the finished texture will be like. When the jam has cooked to the thickness you want, stir in the lemon juice. Turn off the heat and carefully ladle the jam into the prepared canning jars, allowing at least 1/4 inch of headroom. Clean the lip of the jars with a clean, damp towel, and seal with the lids, following the manufacturer's instructions. The jam will keep for about 1 year.

Copyright © 2002 by Alice Waters.

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