2021-07-21
A cheeky guide to wine that covers basic terminology as well as descriptions of obscure grapes around the world.
In an introduction, certified sommelier Amon notes that he’s a wine obsessive, and he even takes credit for starting the wine industry in Bhutan, “just because [he] thought it would be cool if they made wine there.” He shows off his extensive knowledge in the 52 chapters of wine recommendations in this book, which is intended to turn any reader into the “de facto” sommelier of their social circle. In each recommendation, Amon offers a punchy introduction to clarify the different official appellations of the wine at hand—which is helpful in France and Italy, where wine names and regions are especially complicated—and then offers a section on why, for him, this wine is “Dope AF” (“Why Aglianico is Dope AF,” and so on). Certain wines end up requiring multiple sections, such as the two-part section titled “Champagne. You’re Doing It Wrong…” in which Amon offers some convincing arguments against recognizable but overpriced brands, such as Veuve Cliquot. Rieslings, pinot grigio, sauvignon blancs, and the mysterious term tannins also get double-chapter treatments. Amon uses these expanded sections to take deep dives into common but often misunderstood terminology, but he also provides more advanced readers—“Wineaux,” as he lovingly calls them—with information about several less-known types of wine: Xinomavro from Greece, the Italian riesling Timorasso, the German pinot noir Spatburgunder, and White Riojas, among many others. As he summarizes: “The world doesn’t need another oaky Chardonnay, people.” Amon’s brief chapters are very informative, as in a quick guide to food pairings, which offers a succinct analysis of acid, fats, tannins, and proteins. He also peppers in bits of history and geography, as when he recounts the story of the Portuguese region of Madeira during the American Revolution in a quick aside. Overall, this light, fast-paced guide gives readers an enjoyable way to absorb wine facts. However, the author’s particular brand of humor may not appeal to everyone. His coarse language and slang do make the subject feel accessible; fans of the late, great foodie and cookbook author Anthony Bourdain will surely see his influence in Amon’s writing: “I am aware that Savennieres has one of those little French accent thingies over the ‘r,’ ” the author notes at one point (although it’s actually over the second E). “But I am not going to try to hunt through the ‘insert character’ function.” However, offhand references to Amon being “a baller” on Lake Como or impressing sommeliers at fancy dinners don’t land as well, and they play into an aficionado stereotype that he otherwise seems eager to challenge. His writing is most enjoyable when he fully commits to his giddy excitement about wine, as in a “freestyle” rap on Riojas: “I’m gonna grab the mic and start to flow and show ya / A Dope AF delicious wine that’s known as White Rioja.”
A brash but charming and fact-filled book for increasing one’s wine knowledge.
