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CHAPTER 1
This Is How I Roll
On Pins and Noodles
From the way you clean your rolling pin to the type of butter you choose, a number of factors affect the quality of your dough. First, let's talk about the pin. There are approximately 5, 289 different kinds of rolling pins available, but only one that you absolutely must have. Let's review some of the possibilities.
The Best Tools for the Job
Tapered French Rolling Pin
RECOMMENDED OR NOT: Yes! Every cook should have one.
PROS: Good if you have trouble making round circles of dough or have arthritis, as you can apply more pressure to one side to get the desired effect. Easy to store and low learning curve.
CONS: If you wash it the wood grain can rise, causing future dough to stick.
BEST FOR: This pin is all-purpose.
PRICE RANGE: $5 to $40 depending on the wood and finish. I like maple, which is usually at around $10. J.K. Adams turns out a great maple pin from Vermont.
CARE: Wipe down with a wet towel or vinegar mixture after use. Sand lightly if someone accidentally left it sitting in water. Resist the urge to bop them with it.
ALTERNATIVES: If you prefer, you can get a dowel rolling pin. They are perfect wooden cylinders with a similar ease of use. If you're interested in getting consistent thicknesses, then this is the pin to get because you can put special-made rubber bands on the edges of the pin to achieve an even dough thickness. Joseph Joseph makes an adjustable rolling pin with all the bells and whistles for around $20.
Ravioli Rolling Pin
RECOMMENDED OR NOT: Only if you make ravioli more than four times a year.
PROS: This pin makes simple and lovely ravioli. If the pin and pasta are both well-floured, it rolls over the stuffed dough easily.
CONS: It can be easy to overstuff the pasta and have the filling squish out the sides. If pressure isn't applied to the middle of the pin as well as the handles, then some of the middle ravioli won't be sealed. It's also a onepurpose pin. The fine pieces of wood can break after a few years of heavy use. Difficult to clean.
BEST FOR: Rolling out ravioli. That is all.
PRICE RANGE: $20 to $40 depending on the wood and finish.
CARE: Keep this in a drawer not stuffed with too many other tools. Things can get caught in the holes or get stuck. Clean by brushing off the flour; do not soak!
Marble Rolling Pin
RECOMMENDED OR NOT: Only if you live in a hot climate with no AC and make only super delicate dough (like croissant or puff), otherwise pass.
PROS: These are very pretty and their natural weight does some of the work for you. They are naturally a few degrees below room temperature, which can give you a few precious extra moments to work with your dough. You can even chill a marble pin in the fridge before using it to get more time.
CONS: The super slick texture can promote the dough sticking and if it has handles, they'll face a lot of wear and tear from the heavy marble. They can also chip easily. Get one with a base so you don't end up with 5 pounds (2.3 kg) of marble rolling out of the cabinet onto your toes.
BEST FOR: Very temperature-sensitive dough.
PRICE RANGE: $16 to $40.
CARE: These can be washed in the sink, but do not put them in the dishwasher to avoid cracking or ruining the wooden handles.
Silicone Rolling Pin
RECOMMENDED OR NOT: Nope.
PROS: Uhh, it comes in pretty colors? Not a reason to buy something!
CONS: Water can get under the silicone sheath. They work great the first and second time, but for longevity I haven't found one I really like. The more you use them the greasier they can feel even with thorough cleaning.
BEST FOR: Re-gifting.
PRICE RANGE: $20 to $40.
CARE: Hand wash with soapy water.
Etched Rolling Pin
RECOMMENDED OR NOT: Yes, but only as a supplemental rolling pin.
PROS: An easy way to add extra decoration to your doughs. You can even order versions with your monogram or logo.
CONS: I hope you like the design because these guys aren't cheap. Dough can get stuck in the engravings. You'll need to do any preliminary rolling with another pin and use this just for the last pass.
BEST FOR: Rolled cookies, pie dough or savory dishes topped with puff pastry.
PRICE RANGE: $20 to $75 depending on the design. They come in acrylic and wood.
CARE: Be sure to have a brush on-hand to clear out any accumulated flour or dough that would disrupt the design.
Pasta Machine (I call mine Earl)
RECOMMENDED OR NOT: Yes! If you make fresh pasta, you aren't going to want any other kind. Can you make fresh pasta without a pasta machine? Yes, it's a pain but it's doable. The machines come with spaghetti and fettuccini attachments that are a blast to use.
PROS: They are super fun to use! They make short work of a tough dough and if you're looking to get a noncook involved in dinner, this is a great gateway tool.
CONS: Storage. They are big and clunky and you need to make sure you have a surface you can clamp them to (they come with a clamp).
BEST FOR: Pasta or making gum paste sugar flowers if you're into that kind of thing.
PRICE RANGE: $40 to $180. The more expensive ones are attachments for KitchenAid stand mixers; the motor of the mixer does all the work and you just stand there passing the dough through. Good times, but pricey.
CARE: This is tricky, because there is a lot of rustable metal here. I've had to wash mine once or twice. Your best bet is to wipe it down with a wet towel and then dry it with a paper towel. I store mine wrapped in plastic wrap so I don't introduce dust into whatever I'm making next. Stop asking me to introduce you, Dust! Nobody wants to hang out with you!
Other Tools of the Trade
METAL BOWL: You can use glass or porcelain, but a metal bowl is more likely to be below room temperature, thus keeping whatever you're mixing cool. Gather a kitchen towel underneath it to keep it from sliding around the counter.
PIE DISH: I prefer a glass pie dish in most cases. A dark gray nonstick pie tin will absorb too much heat and overcook the crust while undercooking the filling. With a glass dish, you can see exactly how well done the crust is. If the dough is looking super pale but the top is browning too aggressively, you can cover the top with foil to stop the browning and continue to cook the dish until it's how you like it; this works for most pies too. A glass Pyrex dish should run you about $8, so it's not a total tragedy when you leave it at your friend's house.
MICROPLANE: This all-purpose grater was originally a wood rasp. It can take the edges off a wooden block (so watch your fingertips!). It's perfect for zesting citrus and grating garlic, nutmeg, chocolate, ginger and cheese. Just grate the dry ingredient first and clean it in between tasks. If yours comes with a plastic shield, you can slide it on backward to catch whatever you're grating, which is especially useful for nutmeg and chocolate, two things that react to static electricity and will magically coat everything nearby. They are around $12 and a must-have for every kitchen. It's worth it to buy two and it is the perfect shape to be a stocking stuffer, just leave the cover on. Ouch!
SPIDER: This long-handled wire disk is perfect for the retrieval of ravioli, dumplings and blanched veggies. They are about $10 and worth every penny. The ones with the bamboo handles look nice but they tend to fall apart too fast for my liking. My all-metal spider was $15 and has lasted me quite a while and still looks great.
PASTRY BLENDER: This handheld device with three to five curved blades will make you feel like Wolverine, if Wolverine were a baker. And at only $5 to $10, it's a deal. Alternatively, you can use a cheap, plastic bowl scraper, which is usually around $2. The scraper is rectangular and curved on one side to efficiently scrape out your bowl. Either will make short work of cut-in doughs.
BENCH SCRAPER: Total must-have. They are around $5 and some even have a ruler printed on the side. I have three of varying lengths that I use to portion dough, scrape up chopped veggies and herbs and even to get a perfect edge on the side of a cake (you hold it sideways and keep it flush with the turntable as you spin the cake around). Don't try to scrape things up with your knife! It dulls the blade and will slice your hand, not to mention the sound is like nails on a chalkboard. If you simply must use your knife, be sure to flip it over and use the back to keep the edge intact.
PLASTIC WRAP OR PARCHMENT PAPER: If you form your completed dough into a disk, it will have a larger surface area and cool faster. It will also be easier to roll out into a circle. Store it wrapped in plastic wrap and if you have a vexing surface to roll on, place your dough disk between two sheets of parchment paper and roll your dough to its desired shape. Chill before attempting to peel the paper back!
Tips for the Best Ingredients
For having just a few ingredients, dough is a pretty complex thing. Understanding a few fundamentals will educate your technique.
Flour
CAKE AND PASTRY FLOURS: These have a lower protein content, meaning they contain less gluten, giving them a more delicate crust. Think cakey, not crispy.
ALL-PURPOSE AND BREAD FLOURS: These are higher in gluten. Think pizza dough, pasta and baguettes.
HOW TO MEASURE FLOUR: Always transfer your flour from the bag to another container to aerate it. It has probably traveled across the country to get to you with literal tons of flour on top of it. You'll get the most accurate volume measurement from fluffed flour. A cup of flour scraped out of a packed bag could actually be a cup and a half if it isn't fluffed up. King Arthur Flour is my all-around favorite. It has been around since 1790 and is a fully employee-owned company; even more important, they are passionate bakers consistently delivering a superior product.
HOW TO FLOUR YOUR SURFACE: Use a sifter or a shaker, or hold a handful of flour in your hand and shake it like dice. When you're kneading dough, you want as little flour as possible to avoid offsetting the recipe, but go for the flour when you're rolling because you do not want that baby to stick to the counter! You can always brush off any excess; flour not mixed into anything and cooked just tastes bitter and sad.
Salt
If you forget salt, the dough will taste a bit flat and stale.
KOSHER SALT: I prefer kosher salt for almost everything I make, whether sweet or savory. Kosher refers to the size of the crystals. It's the salt that's packed onto a kosher slaughtered animal to draw out impurities. Remember this if you ever buy a kosher chicken or turkey! They've already been salted.
TABLE SALT: Table salt is too fine: the crystals are much smaller, so more salt will fit in the teaspoon, making things ultimately too salty. If your recipe calls for 1 teaspoon of salt but all you have is table salt, then reduce the amount to ? teaspoon or it will be too salty.
Butter
There is no industry standard for how much salt actually gets added to butter, so always use unsalted butter so you can control the amount of seasoning.
EUROPEAN-STYLE BUTTER: I like to use this butter because it has a higher fat percentage, resulting in a more tender final product.
CULTURED BUTTER: This butter is made with a soured cream that can have a slightly tangy flavor. It is great for toast, but the expense and flavor impact rule it out for baking with me. Butter actually coats the strands of gluten, keeping them short and hindering their development, which keeps your baked goods tender and not chewy like a baguette.
BUTTER TEMPERATURE: The temperature of the butter is incredibly important. If you are hoping to cream the butter, then it needs to be at room temperature. If your room is cold, then feel free to microwave for 10 seconds or, my favorite, flash a blowtorch over the mixing bowl as it spins a few times. You can also fill a large glass jar with boiling water, let it sit for 1 minute, pour it out and then invert it over the stick of butter. It's just hot enough to make it go soft but not melty. That jar is hot though, so use an oven mitt. Or if you are practicing the "cut-in butter" method, then you'll want to be sure your butter is straight-from-the-refrigerator cold so that it doesn't melt and disappear into the flour. The small pellets of butter will then melt during the cooking process and leave tiny pockets behind. These pockets become flakes, and we love them and end up wearing them.
Sugar
A triangle is the common lingo for sugar in the pastry biz. Some of the sugar in dough will melt during mixing, and some won't. The sugars that do melt will coat the gluten, making it even more tender. The crystals that don't melt during mixing will melt during baking, causing the product to spread. This is why your chocolate chip cookies on one day may be thick and the next day spread too far — it has to do with how long you mixed the butter and sugar.
GRANULATED SUGAR: Unless it's specified in the recipe, "sugar" means granulated sugar. It's our "all-purpose" sugar and the tiny crystals make creaming a breeze.
BROWN SUGAR: Brown sugar is just granulated sugar with some of the molasses that was extracted during the refinement process added back to it. This extra moisture is what sends it into brick territory the day after we open it. Store it in an airtight container with some mini-marshmallows to keep it workable for a longer period of time. The added moisture in brown sugar will also promote spreading, which is why most chocolate chip cookies call for a combination of brown and granulated sugar. You get the best of both worlds.
POWDERED (OR CONFECTIONERS') SUGAR: Powdered sugar is just regular sugar that's been pulverized to dust. A small amount of cornstarch is added in to keep it loose. It's not great for the creaming method but is great for making baked goods tender and sweet. In a pinch, you can absolutely make your own if you have a high-powered blender.
Water
Cold water keeps the butter cold and hydrates the flour juuuuuust enough to come together. I fill up a Pyrex measuring cup with ice water and sprinkle it with my fingers, holding in the ice. No, this is not an exact measurement, so add a little at a time and trust yourself.
The Best Techniques for Rolling Out Dough
Watching someone roll a perfect circle of dough is a Zen experience. They expertly apply just the right amount of pressure to create a symmetrical disk of even thickness that easily comes away from the rolling surface. This doesn't happen your first time. Your first crust may have looked like a Rorschach test and gotten stuck to the table, leaving blobs behind. Practice, practice, then practice some more. This will all become muscle memory. Here are some tips to follow to make it as easy as possible.
Rest the Dough
First things first: did you rest your dough? Those gluten strands got a workout when you made the dough, and they need to relax back down before you roll or it will snap right back, never giving you the shape you want and/or it will shrink drastically in the oven! Make sure it has chilled for at least 30 minutes.
Start in the Center
Place your chilled disk on a floured surface. Begin in the middle, making short rolling movements. Is it cracking? Don't freak out! It will be okay. Go drink a glass of water; it will give the dough a minute to warm up just a touch and you're probably not drinking enough water anyway. Move the dough after every two or three rolls to make sure it isn't sticking and rotate it a quarter turn. As you twist it, pick up a bit more of the scattered flour to keep the next roll from sticking too. If you need more flour, add more flour. You can always brush away excess flour when you're done, which is a lot easier than prying soft stuck-on dough from your counter. Repeat the process, never rolling the pin over and off the edges. If you do that, it will make the edges too thin and screw up your shape. Is it still sticking to the counter? Gently slide an offset spatula underneath to get it up with the least amount of damage. Transfer the dough by rolling it up onto the pin from the top down and then unfurl it, rolling away from you from the bottom up, onto a dish or piece of parchment to chill.
(Continues…)
Excerpted from "Essential Tools, Tips & Techniques for the Home Cook"
by .
Copyright © 2018 Alexandra Grablewski.
Excerpted by permission of Page Street Publishing Co..
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