Karakoram: Climbing Through The Kashmir Conflict

Karakoram: Climbing Through The Kashmir Conflict

by Steve Swenson


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Product Details

ISBN-13: 9781594859731
Publisher: Mountaineers Books, The
Publication date: 02/01/2017
Pages: 320
Sales rank: 986,434
Product dimensions: 6.20(w) x 9.10(h) x 1.30(d)

About the Author

Steve Swenson has been climbing for 45 years. He has made solo ascents of K2 and Everest—both without supplementary oxygen. In 2012 he and his partners made the first ascent of Sasser Kangri II (7518 meters), the second highest unclimbed mountain in the world, a feat for which they were awarded the prestigious Piolet d'Or. Swenson is a past president of the American Alpine Club and has written articles for the American Alpine Journal, as well as for Climbing, Rock & Ice, and Alpinist magazines. He and his wife, Ann Dalton, divide their time between Seattle and Canmore, Alberta, Canada. Learn more at steveswensonsblog.blogspot.com.

Table of Contents

Foreword Greg Child 9

Author's Note 11

Preface 13

Map Legend 15

Map of the Karakoram Region 18

Chapter 1 To Pakistan 19

Gasherbrum IV Southwest Ridge, 1980; East Face, 1980

Map 2 K-2, Gasherbrum Group, Baltoro Glacier and Environs 22

Chapter 2 Elusive Summits 47

Gasherbrum IV Northwest Ridge, 1983; K2 North Ridge, 1986; K2 South Face 1987

Chapter 3 K2 at Last 83

K2 North Ridge, 1990

Chapter 4 Life and Death 111

Gasherbrum IV Southwest Ridge, 1992

Chapter 5 Everest 121

Everest Kangshung Face, 1994; North Ridge, 1994

Chapter 6 One More Try 143

Gasherbrum IV Southwest Ridge, 1999

Chapter 7 After 9/11 155

Kondus Valley, 2001; Charakusa Valley: Nayser Brakk, Kapura, and K7 West Northwest Ridge, .2004

Map 3 Charakusa and Nangma Valley 170

Chapter 8 The Killer Mountain 179

Nanga Parbat Mazeno Ridge, 2004

Map 4 Nanga Parbat 184

Chapter 9 The World's Hardest Mountains 201

Latok II South Ridge, 2006; Latok I North Ridge, 2007; Choktoi Spire North Ridge, 2007

Map 5 The Latok Group 206

Chapter 10 The Risk of Regret 231

Saser Kangri II Southwest Face, 2009, Tsok Kangri, 2011; Saser Kangri II Southwest Face, 2011

Map 6 Saser Kangri Group 240

Chapter 11 Attack 265

Nanga Parbat, 2013

Chapter 12 Passing the Torch 271

Changi Tower, 2015; K6 Central, 2015

Sources 308

Acknowledgments 309

Index 311

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