Royal Robbins: The American Climber

by David Smart

Overview

"Royal Robbins had an outsized impact on climbing history. This great new biography by David Smart brings the man behind the famous climbs to life in a way that’s both relatable and inspiring."—Alex Honnold

Banff Mountain Book Competition Climbing Literature Winner • Foreword INDIES Book of the Year Awards Silver Medal • Independent Publisher Book Award Bronze Medal Winner • Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature Finalist

• Robbins’s passing in 2017 was covered from the BBC News to NPR to the New York Times, which deemed him the "conscience of rock climbers"
• Includes never-before-published information drawn from Robbins’s family archives and personal papers
• International interest in the Golden Age of Yosemite only continues to grow

Acclaimed writer David Smart illuminates the fascinating life of Royal Robbins—-in all its soulful ambition, rivalry, and romance. Royal Robbins chronicles his early years growing up as a latchkey kid in Southern California, the push and pull between being an aspiring banker or one of the original Camp 4 dirtbags, and his later decades as a father, husband, kayaker, and the trailblazing founder of the outdoor apparel company that bears his name. This intimate, colorful tour of climbing history covering Yosemite, the Tetons, the Gunks, the Alps, the United Kingdom, and more from the 1960s onward features star characters such as Liz Robbins— Robbins’s wife and a pioneering adventurer in her own right— Yvon Chouinard, John Harlin, Steve Roper, Warren Harding, Tom Frost, and Doug Tompkins.

An important addition to our knowledge of the Golden Age of rock climbing in Yosemite and the development of the clean climbing ethos, Royal Robbins sheds new light on an elemental figure of outdoor culture.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9781680516586
Publisher:	Mountaineers Books, The
Publication date:	08/15/2023
Pages:	256
Product dimensions:	6.00(w) x 8.90(h) x 1.00(d)

About the Author

David Smartis founding editor of Gripped magazine, editorial director at Gripped Publishing, and author of five guidebooks. His biography of Austrian solo climber Paul Preuss was shortlisted for the Boardman Tasker Prize, and his biography of Italian climber Emilio Comici won that prize along with the Banff Award for Climbing Literature. Other honors include the H. Adams Carter Award for Mountain Literature from the American Alpine Club. His work has appeared in Climbing, Rock and Ice, The American Alpine Journal, The Canadian Alpine Journal, and Alpinist. Smart resides in Toronto.

Editorial Reviews

It is rare to read an account of a legend that measures up to the individual, capturing visionary character in human and place with clear insight to an era. David Smart gives us an evocative, intimate view of Royal Robbins, the man, his exceptional position in the history of American climbing and his vast resume of classic and timeless ascents.

2023 Banff Mountain Book Competition Jury - Jennifer Lowe-Anker

Royal Robbins had an outsized impact on climbing history. This great new biography by David Smart brings the man behind the famous climbs to life in a way that’s both relatable and inspiring.

Alex Honnold

A central figure in the history of climbing in Yosemite, Royal Robbins taught us how to allow the vertical world to change us—an antidote to conquering a mountain. David Smart takes us on Robbins’s amazing transformation of this sport.

Conrad Anker

[A] meticulously well researched biography of an American legend, charting Robbins’ journey from young enthusiast to legendary climber and outdoor visionary.

2024 Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature Chair of

I predict that Royal Robbins: The American Climber will become a timeless classic in the world of climbing literature; I found it incredibly moving.

Gripped Magazine - Jon Popowich

Royal Robbins set the cultural and ethical standards for the golden age of American rock climbing. Readers everywhere will surely be moved by his inspiring story.

Tommy Caldwell

A solid addition to the catalog of climbing books.... Smart, an accomplished climber and founding editor of “Gripped” magazine, revels in the details of Robbins' many climbing exploits, as well as his relationships.

Petoskey News-Review - Glen Young

This book is another excellent offering from David Smart. It presents a well-constructed account of a young man who found a path forward in life in climbing. The writing is quite intense and incredibly detailed. David has used a huge amount of reference materials and spent numerous hours talking to Royal’s family and friends who have all added valuable contributions to the book. David’s narrative paints a colourful portrait of a much admired and highly respected character.

Climber Magazine - Noel Dawson

Royal Robbins was a leading climber and legend during the golden age of big wall climbing. This is an important story of him and that age.

Yvon Chouinard

We all stand on the shoulders of giants. Royal Robbins is one of them and David Smart has done climbers the world over a great service in gathering the history and accomplishments of this legend in his book.

Common Climber - Dave Barnes

Once again, David Smart brings his impressive abilities for in-depth research, nuanced historical interpretation, and immersive prose to a biography of a complex and enigmatic climber—demonstrating how fortunate we all are, as readers of mountain literature, that Smart has chosen this genre.

Katie Ives

Offers a captivating portrait of a pioneering figure in the world of climbing, detailing both Robbins’ ground-breaking ascents and his profound influence on the climbing community. Smart meticulously chronicles Robbins’ journey from a troubled upbringing to a legendary climber and visionary.

2024 Boardman Tasker Award Judges