Sunshot: Peril and Wonder in the Gran Desierto

The Devil’s Highway crosses a stretch of borderland desert in northern Mexico where many immigrants have traveled—and too many have died. It is a despoblado where desperate people defend secret places. But it is also known as El Gran Desierto—a place where stately saguaros stand near aromatic elephant trees, where sand dunes caress the edges of jagged granite mountains, where one can watch bighorn sheep in the morning and whales in the afternoon.

Over the years, desert rat Bill Broyles has ...