Read an Excerpt
The New New England Cookbook
125 Recipes That Celebrates the Rustic Flavors of the Northeast
By Stacy Cogswell Taisa Rebroff, Jennifer Blume Page Street Publishing Co.
Copyright © 2015 Stacy Cogswell
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-62414-186-7
CHAPTER 1
– MENU 1 –
PUMPKIN BISQUE WITH ROASTED GARLIC MARSHMALLOWS AND SPICED PEPITAS
I can't imagine a more fall-appropriate dish than this soup. It incorporates everything I love about this season into one bowl: pumpkin, spice and marshmallows. The savory marshmallows are an impressive touch, elevating this dish from just regular soup to a potential dinner-party course. The bisque is silky and tastes like fall and the marshmallows just melt in your mouth, while the pepitas add a nice crunch to each bite.
This recipe calls for fresh pumpkin for a reason. Canned pumpkin can sometimes have an artificial taste when used in savory dishes, so please take the time to prepare the real deal.
YIELD: 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
PUMPKIN BISQUE
1 (4 lb [1.8 kg]) pumpkin
2½ lbs (1 kg) bacon, chopped
2½ lbs (1 kg) onions, sliced
1 lb (455 g) leeks, sliced
2 cups (480 ml) sherry
2 tsp (5 g) nutmeg
1 tbsp (7 g) Chinese five spice
5 sage leaves
2 tsp (5 g) chili flakes
2 tbsp (30 g) salt
4 quarts (3.8 l) Vegetable Stock
Roasted Garlic Marshmallows
1–2 tbsp (8–16 g) Spiced Pepitas
1 tsp (5 g) sea salt
Preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C).
Cut the pumpkin in half and scrape out the seeds. Roast the pumpkin cut-side-down until tender, about 1 hour. Once cool enough to handle, scrape out the flesh and throw the skin away. Set pumpkin aside.
Render the bacon in a stockpot for 15 minutes. Add the onions, leeks, sherry and spices and cook for 15 minutes, until tender. Add the roasted pumpkin and vegetable stock. Cover and let simmer for 15 minutes.
Puree the soup in a blender. If making ahead, allow the soup to cool and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
Pour the hot bisque into your serving bowl and drop in the marshmallows. I like to use a kitchen torch to brûlée the top of the marshmallows. Sprinkle the pepitas and sea salt on top. Serve right away.
– MENU 1 –
ROASTED GARLIC MARSHMALLOWS
This recipe can seem extremely intimidating and weird, but I promise you two things: it's actually pretty simple once you get the hang of it and savory marshmallows are a delicious, unexpected complement to a dish. The sweet, roasted garlic flavor pairs quite well with the Pumpkin Bisque.
Although the garlic can be omitted in this recipe to make the traditional, sweet 'mallows you know and love, I think that you'll start craving marshmallows in a whole new way after trying these.
YIELD: 10 TO 15 SERVINGS
MARSHMALLOW SYRUP
1 cup (240 ml) water
2 2/3 cups (510 g) granulated sugar
½ tsp cream of tartar
½ tsp salt
ROASTED GARLIC PUREE
2 cups (300 g) garlic cloves
2 cups (475 ml) canola oil
MARSHMALLOWS
¼ cup 1 tbsp (75 ml) cold water
2 gelatin packets or 1 ½ tsp (6 g) gelatin
1/3 cup (80 ml) water
¾ cup (180 ml) Marshmallow Syrup
2 tsp (10 g) salt
1 tsp pepper
¾ cup (145 g) granulated sugar
1 cup (240 ml) Roasted Garlic Puree
For the Marshmallow Syrup, place all of the ingredients into a 4-quart (4-l) heavy pan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Insert a candy thermometer into the pan, and boil, without stirring, until the syrup reaches 140°F (60°C). Remove the syrup from the heat and let it cool for 15 minutes.
For the Roasted Garlic Puree, place the garlic and canola oil into a small saucepan and cook over low heat until the garlic browns and is soft, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature.
Once the garlic and oil have cooled, strain the oil and set it aside — I like to save mine for other cooking projects. Puree the garlic in a blender or, if you don't have a blender, you can place the garlic in a bowl and crush it using the back of a spoon until it forms a paste.
To make the Marshmallows, place the cold water and gelatin into the bowl of a KitchenAid mixer. Set aside to allow the gelatin to bloom.
In a saucepan, bring the rest of the ingredients, except the garlic puree, to a boil. Cook until the temperature reaches 280°F (138°C). Remove from the heat and set aside.
Turn on the mixer and start breaking up the bloomed gelatin on low speed, then slowly drizzle in all of the sugar mixture. Once all of the sugar mixture is in the bowl, cover with a towel and turn the speed up to high. Whip for 10 to 15 minutes, until light and fluffy. Add the garlic puree in batches on medium speed.
Spray a half sheet pan with pan spray and cover it with plastic wrap. Spray the plastic wrap with the pan spray. Pour the marshmallow mixture onto the plastic wrap and level it out using a spatula. Cover it and refrigerate for 24 hours.
After 24 hours, you can cut the marshmallows into ½-inch (13-mm)-size pieces. If not using right away, you can store them covered in a refrigerator for up to a month.
– MENU 1 –
SPICED PEPITAS
Although these Spiced Pepitas are the perfect little crunch your Pumpkin Bisque needs and wants, they can also be used to garnish salads. The Cajun seasoning makes them salty, spicy and very addictive.
YIELD: 1 CUP (160 G)
1 cup (160 g) pepitas
2 tbsp (30 ml) canola oil
2 tsp (10 g) salt
2 tsp (10 g) pepper
1½ tsp (4 g) Cajun seasoning;
I recommend McCormick brand
Preheat the oven to 350°F (177°C).
Mix all ingredients in a bowl. Transfer to a sheet pan lined with parchment paper and bake in the preheated oven until toasted and slightly dark, about 10 minutes.
– MENU 1 –
FRISÉE SALAD WITH CONFIT APPLES, CHEDDAR, CANDIED PECANS AND MEAD VINAIGRETTE
This crisp autumn salad manages to be hearty without overwhelming the meal, and it's also great simply served on its own as a light dinner. It's the perfect marriage of fall flavors — the sweetness of the apples and pecans is offset by the salty cheddar and acidic vinaigrette.
YIELD: 2 SERVINGS
1 head frisée lettuce
4 oz (120 g) chunk of aged cheddar
4 cups (800 g) Confit Apples
½ cup (50 g) Candied Pecans
¼ cup (59 ml) Mead Vinaigrette
Prepare the frisée by cutting off the bottom and rinsing under cold water. Set aside to dry.
Using a vegetable peeler, peel the cheddar into thin shards.
Gently toss the frisée, cheddar, Confit Apple, pecans and vinaigrette until combined. Serve immediately.
– MENU 1 –
CONFIT APPLES
This recipe is a delicious solution to the plethora of apples you get from apple picking in the fall, and it just so happens that it's pretty versatile, too. Gently cooking the apples for a long time gives their sugars a more savory flavor. In addition, the woodiness of the vanilla and the rich, slightly bitter olive oil help offset the apples' sweetness.
Confit Apples are great on all types of salads, but they also work quite well as an accompaniment for pork and chicken dishes.
YIELD: 12 SERVINGS
6 Fuji apples
2 cups (473 ml) olive oil
2 cups (473 ml) canola oil
1 vanilla bean, split
1 cinnamon stick
3 allspice peppercorns
3 bay leaves
3 rosemary sprigs
Cut all apples in half and remove their cores, then cut into quarters.
Add all ingredients to a large saucepan and slowly bring to a light simmer over medium heat. Cover with parchment paper so the apples cook evenly. Cook for 5 to 10 minutes until the apples are slightly tender. Remove the pot from the heat and allow the apples to steep in the hot oil until fully cooled, about 20 minutes.
– MENU 1 –
CANDIED PECANS
These sweet and spicy pecans are an easy way to add an extra little somethin' to any salad. I like them in the Frisée Salad, but they're so tasty that you can make them work in many ways. They're also an irresistible snack — it's hard not to munch on them as they sit on your countertop!
YIELD: 2 CUPS (240 G)
2 cups (240 g) pecans
2 cups (383 g) sugar
2 cups (473 ml) water
1 tbsp (15 g) salt
2 tbsp (5 g) cayenne pepper
Preheat oven to 350°F (177°C).
Place all ingredients in a saucepan over high heat and bring to a boil. Cook until most of the liquid is gone, about 15 minutes. The mixture should be thick and syrupy. Be careful as the mixture will get extremely hot!
Remove from the heat and strain any liquid.
Put the pecans on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, or a Silpat nonstick sheet, and bake for 15 to 20 minutes.
Allow the pecans to cool completely. They should have a hard candy crack to them. Break them up into pieces before using. You can store them in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 weeks.
– MENU 1 –
MEAD VINAIGRETTE
Salads may seem out of place during the colder months, but having a good dressing recipe in your repertoire will change everything. This dressing has a sweet-and-sour honey profile with a touch of herbaceous flavoring from the fresh chives and tanginess from the mustard, making it a great complement to many types of greens — especially the bitter ones. It may seem strange, but this vinaigrette is sweet enough to be drizzled over pound cakes or even ice cream.
YIELD: 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
MEAD REDUCTION
4 cups (946 ml) mead
½ cup (118 ml) honey
MEAD VINAIGRETTE
2 ounces (57 g) minced shallots
2 cups (473 ml) Mead Reduction
1 cup (237 ml) Champagne vinegar
2 cups (473 ml) canola oil
3 tbsp (47 g) Dijon mustard
1 tbsp (15 g) salt
1 tsp pepper
2 tbsp (6 g) chopped chives
Bring the mead and honey to a simmer in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Reduce by 75 percent, about 10 to 15 minutes. Cool completely before using.
To make the vinaigrette, add the shallots, Mead Reduction, vinegar, oil, mustard, salt and pepper to a blender and blend until completely emulsified. Whisk in the chopped chives. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator until ready to use.
– MENU 1 –
ROASTED MONKFISH WITH FARRO RISOTTO AND SAUTÉED BRUSSELS SPROUTS
New England is renowned for its seafood, and one of my favorite types is the less commonly used monkfish. Monkfish is a dense, meaty and slightly sweet fish with a taste that is similar to lobster tail. Adding the lemon juice to the cooked fillets brings out a hint of acidity and the fresh flavor of the monkfish.
YIELD: 2 SERVINGS
2 (6 ounce [174 g]) monkfish fillets
1 tsp salt
½ tsp pepper
1 tsp lemon zest
3 tbsp (44 ml) canola oil
2 tbsp (30 ml) lemon juice
Farro Risotto
Sautéed Brussels Sprouts
Preheat oven to 400°F (204°C).
Season the monkfish fillets with salt, pepper and lemon zest.
Heat the canola oil in an oven-safe sauté pan over high heat until it begins to smoke. Add the monkfish fillets and sear until they are brown on both sides, about 8 to 10 minutes.
Finish cooking the fillets in the oven, uncovered, until they reach an internal temperature of 145°F (63°C), about 12 minutes. Allow the monkfish fillets to rest for 3 to 5 minutes and sprinkle with lemon juice before serving. Serve immediately with the risotto and Brussels sprouts.
– MENU 1 –
FARRO RISOTTO
Farro is one of my favorite grains to eat during colder weather — it's especially substantial and it can accompany a variety of different proteins. I love this recipe in particular because it combines two of my favorite things: fat and hearty grains. The farro has an earthy, nutty flavor while the mascarpone adds a creamy richness — an unbeatable combo.
YIELD: 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
1 cup (237 ml) olive oil
2 large onions, diced
¼ cup (38 g) chopped garlic
3 cups (632 g) farro
1 cup (237 ml) white wine
4 cups (946 ml) Vegetable Stock
2 bay leaves
½ bunch thyme sprigs
1 tbsp (15 g) salt
2 tsp (10 g) pepper
2 cups (483 g) mascarpone cheese
2 tbsp (5 g) chopped parsley
2 tbsp (6 g) chopped chives
Add the olive oil, onions and garlic to a saucepan over medium heat and sweat until tender, about 10 minutes. Add the uncooked farro to the pan and cook for 5 minutes to toast the grains. Add the white wine, stock, bay leaves, thyme, salt and pepper and cook until just tender, about 15 to 20 minutes.
Remove from heat and mix in the mascarpone cheese, parsley and chives. Serve immediately.
– MENU 1 –
SAUTÉED BRUSSELS SPROUTS
Fall is the best time to buy Brussels sprouts — it's when they're at the height of their season. I love Brussels sprouts and I especially love this recipe because it showcases a different way of preparing them. While the prep time is a little bit time consuming, the cooking time is incredibly fast so it all balances out. The spices and fat in this recipe help the Brussels sprouts truly shine — they're spicy, slightly bitter and tangy. Don't skip the lemon juice as it balances the spices and bitterness of the sprouts.
YIELD: 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
3 lbs (1.4 kg) Brussels sprouts
3 tbsp (44 ml) canola oil
1 tbsp (14 g) butter
¼ cup (60 g) sliced shallots
2 tsp (2 g) chili flakes
2 tsp (10 g) salt
1 tsp mustard seeds
2 tbsp (30 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice
Prep the Brussels sprouts by cutting off the bottom a little at a time until you end up with loose leaves. Make your way all the down until only a small center is left. Set aside.
Heat a sauté pan over high heat and add the canola oil and butter. Add the shallots and cook for 1 minute. Add the Brussels sprout leaves, chili flakes, salt and mustard seeds. Cook for about 3 minutes, or until slightly tender. Add the lemon juice and serve immediately.
– MENU 1 –
SEARED DUCK BREAST WITH PICKLED CRANBERRIES, CRANBERRY GASTRIQUE AND ROASTED CAULIFLOWER
Duck is one of those proteins that most people are intimidated to cook, but it's actually pretty painless to pull off. Duck meat is fatty and rich with a flavor that is similar to dark chicken meat. This rich, tart sauce packs an intense punch of cranberries — it's a perfect taste of fall in each bite! It's best to use it sparingly or serve it on the side so as not to overpower other flavors.
YIELD: 2 SERVINGS
2 (5–6 oz [145–174 g]) duck breasts
1 tsp salt
½ tsp pepper
CRANBERRY GASTRIQUE
6 cups (1.4 l) Chicken Stock
4 cups (767 g) sugar
1 cup (237 ml) water
4 cups (946 ml) red wine vinegar
2 lbs (907 g) fresh cranberries
2 bay leaves
1 tbsp (15 g) salt
3 cups (710 ml) cranberry juice
Pickled Cranberries
Roasted Cauliflower
Make small score marks that look like Xs on the fatty side of the duck. Try to avoid cutting all the way down — past the fat — to the meat. Set aside.
Heat a sauté pan over high heat. Season the fatty side of the duck breasts with the salt and pepper and place in the pan, fat side down. Lower the heat to medium and allow the breasts to render out most of their fat, about 15 minutes. When the fat is mostly rendered, flip the duck breasts so that the meaty side is down, and cook for 2 more minutes. Remove from pan and allow to rest for 4 minutes before cutting into the breasts. Serve with Pickled Cranberries and Cranberry Gastrique.
CRANBERRY GASTRIQUE
In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, cook the chicken stock until it's reduced to 2 cups (473 ml), about 20 minutes. Set aside.
In a different saucepan, bring the sugar and water to a boil over high heat. Cook until the sugar begins to caramelize, about 10 to 15 minutes. Add the vinegar, cranberries, bay leaves, salt, cranberry juice and the reduced chicken stock. Cook until the mixture begins to thicken, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat.
Puree the mixture using a hand blender, or in batches if using a countertop blender. Add about ½ cup (118 ml) of water, as needed, to thin the mixture. Serve with pickled cranberries and cauliflower.
– MENU 1 –
PICKLED CRANBERRIES
Growing up around cranberry bogs, I'm used to snacking on the tart and sour little berries. Pickling them, however, preserves the fruit and brings out its natural sweetness to balance out the tartness. Pickled Cranberries are such a staple in New England that they seem to be everywhere come fall. They're a great accompaniment for rich, fatty foods — think of all the holiday fare that's so perfectly balanced with a hint of cranberry sauce. They can also be a wonderful addition to salads.
YIELD: 4 CUPS (400 G)
1 cup (237 ml) red wine vinegar
1 ½ cups (302 g) brown sugar
¼ cup (60 g) salt
2 tbsp (17 g) black peppercorns
8 sprigs rosemary
1 tsp chili flakes
2 cups (473 ml) water
6 bay leaves
1 vanilla bean, split
2 lbs (907 g) fresh cranberries
Combine all ingredients, except the cranberries, into a saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature.
Once cooled, pour the mixture over the cranberries. Cover tightly and let sit in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 days before using.
Pickled Cranberries will last for up to a month if stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
– MENU 1 –
ROASTED CAULIFLOWER
Cauliflower is an underrated vegetable that gets a bad rap for being bland — so wrong! It's a universal vegetable that can go with just about anything, and is also great all on its own. When roasted until brown, the cauliflower develops an almost popcorn-like taste that's impossibly hard to resist.
YIELD: 8 SERVINGS
2 heads cauliflower
¼ cup (59 ml) canola oil
2 tsp (5 g) ground cumin
1½ tbsp (23 g) salt
½ tbsp (4 g) pepper
Preheat oven to 400°F (204°C).
Wash and cut off cauliflower florets from their stems. In a bowl, toss the cauliflower florets with canola oil, cumin, salt and pepper. Set aside.
Line a cookie sheet with foil and add the seasoned cauliflower in an even, single layer. Roast in the oven for 20 minutes. Serve immediately.
(Continues...)
Excerpted from The New New England Cookbook by Stacy Cogswell Taisa Rebroff, Jennifer Blume. Copyright © 2015 Stacy Cogswell. Excerpted by permission of Page Street Publishing Co..
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.
