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The Way, My Way

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"I'd never done anything crazy like this before – a pilgrimage walk. I was not a hiker, and I wasn't a Catholic. In fact, I wasn't even sure I was a Christian. On the last government census when I had to state my religion, I'd said I was a Buddhist, mainly because they've had such a hard time in Tibet and I felt they needed my statistical support.

I was also not an adventure traveler. For me, adventure travel was flying coach. All this backpacking and wearing of heavy boots and flying off to...